What's the go to rear suspension? - Page 3 - Chevelle Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions & more.

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post #31 of 40 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 9:11 PM
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Tom Terrific II
 
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Re: What's the go to rear suspension?

That truck arm deal is cool but work to install. If it were me and my wallet I'd go with the UMI. anybody know it they're offering a frame mount anti-roll bar?

Upper double-adjustable with johnny joints or what they're called these days. Lowers with johnny-joints. frame mounted anti-roll bar, the braces for the upper control arm mounts, and some double adjustable drag oriented shock.

This will get you into the 1.6 - 1.5 area with a good motor. like this:

1968-1972 GM A-Body Pro-Touring Rear Suspension Kit [ABR824] - $789.99 : UMI Performance, Inc. notice the johnnyjoints

and this:
64-72 GM A-Body Front A-arm Kit, 0.9? taller upper ball joint, adjustable/0.5 taller lower ball joints, Delrin Bushings [403256-3] - $1,409.99 : UMI Performance, Inc.

with these:
1968-1972 GM A-Body Control Arm Reinforcements/Frame Braces [4028] - $149.99 : UMI Performance, Inc.

and finally:
https://hrpartsandstuff.com/
scroll down to #1451 many members here had excellent results with these parts.


ask UMI about the best rear drag shocks, you want them adjustable both compression and rebound.

Just IMHO and all that.
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post #32 of 40 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 9:54 PM
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Greg.
 
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Re: What's the go to rear suspension?

TOM

1964-1972 GM A-Body 1-3/8? Tubular Rear Drag Sway Bar - Bolt-on [4045] - $489.99 : UMI Performance, Inc.

1964-1972 GM A-Body 1? Tubular Rear Sway Bar, Chassis Mounted [4047-XXX] - $449.99 : UMI Performance, Inc.

67 Chevelle Malibu SS Cdn
Born 283 / PG / A51
468/TH400 2,500 stall/ S60 3.70 Gs
Prev Best on M/T ET S/S #3454 street Tires/Dress 2018/05/20
60' = 1.664
1/8 = 7.532 et / 91 mph
1/4 = 11.814 et / 115 mph
NEW Best with 3,500+ Stall TC 2019/09/08
60' = 1.547
1/8 = 7.311 et / 91.76 mph
1/4 = 11.595 et / 114.28 mph


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post #33 of 40 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 10:07 PM
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Brian
 
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Re: What's the go to rear suspension?

HR Parts N Stuff has a differential/chassis mount rear sway bar. I have heard good things about it. You have to call them order it.

https://www.hrpartsandstuff.com/

1971 Malibu, factory buckets/full gauges/console, 377 roller cammed small block, Turbo 400, 3.42 10 bolt posi (Buick), - All your base are belong to us.
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post #34 of 40 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 11:18 PM
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Steve
 
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Re: What's the go to rear suspension?

My rear setup is all UMI. I have adjustable uppers with roto-joint at frame, rubber in housing, dual roto-joint lowers, 2" UMI lowering springs, and the frame mount 1" UMI bar. I also have Airlift bags in both springs, and Bilstein shocks. Just started driving on the new setup, but I'm loving it so far. No wheel hop, handles great, and rides smooth.

I wouldn't mix drag shocks and springs with parts meant to enhance handling and vice versa. The UMI chassis-mounted bar has three different stiffness settings, and combined with UMI's relocation brackets that also allow you to adjust the lowers like the SSM brackets do. You could tune for track outings, and switch back to a street tune fairly easily. Coilovers would allow ride height and stiffness tuning to the mix too. It all depends on your primary use.


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post #35 of 40 (permalink) Old Today, 12:58 AM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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Re: What's the go to rear suspension?

With the UMI relocation brackets, isn't that kinda defeating the whole purpose of having adjustable uppers?

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post #36 of 40 (permalink) Old Today, 1:36 AM
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Steve
 
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Re: What's the go to rear suspension?

Adjustable uppers allow you to change pinion angle and move the rear side to side for centering. The relocation brackets change instant center for launching. The adjustment holes in the brackets are in an arc that keeps the pinion angle the same.


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post #37 of 40 (permalink) Old Today, 4:25 AM
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Re: What's the go to rear suspension?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZZ69chevelle View Post
I also have Airlift bags in both springs, and Bilstein shocks.
I just want to point something out here concerning airLift bags, or any other method which would be used specifically to pre-load the coil springs in a drag race car, ( I know that Steve was not implying that he uses the AirLift bags for drag racing, so the following comments are not aimed at him).....

Some guys have used such methods to pre-load the coil springs on the drag strip to control or prevent roll rotation during the starting line launch, or in attempt to straighten out the launch of a car that is pulling to one side during the launch, but for drag cars capable of wheel stands, there is an inherit danger in doing that: when you pre-load one side of the springs, (ONE SIDE meaning compressing or extending either the drivers side spring or the passenger side spring) what that can often do is cause the car to pull to one side during gear shifts.

So why is there a danger in the car pulling to one side during a gear shift? Because for cars capable of getting into the low 10 second and 9 second ET neighborhood, which are therefore also capable of getting the front tires off of the ground during the starting line launch, if the front tires are still off the pavement during the 1-2 gear shift, and the car then pulls to one side before the front tires come back down to earth, this can and often has put such cars on their door, or even worse put the car into a barrel roll and on the roof if the wheel stand was high enough.

Keep in mind that many experienced drag racers know that during a high wheel stand, the best thing to do is to keep your foot on the go pedal, and grab 2nd gear in order to end the wheel stand in a controlled manner, instead of backing off the gas, and having the front end come crashing back down real hard, which usually damages header tubes, oil pans, and transmission pans. Just a heads up for guys running cars which get into the 10's and the 9's at the drag strip. For those cars, controlling the launch with varying the drivers side and passenger side settings on DOUBLE adjustable shocks, is a much better way to control how straight the car launches, instead of using any method to pre-load the coil springs to accomplish that, since using double adjustable shock setting will NOT cause the car to pull to one side or the other during gear shifts like pre-loading one of the coil springs can.

BTW, what I explained above does NOT apply to the use of a rear anti-roll bar, UNLESS perhaps you're using the bar to adjust one side tighter than the other, rather than having it adjusted in a neutral static position. Sorry to get a little off-topic, but I think this is a safety issue for some of the quicker drag cars and street/strip cars. Ofcourse it doesn't really apply to 11,12, and 13 second cars since they won't be doing wheel stands off the starting line any way.

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post #38 of 40 (permalink) Old Today, 5:52 AM
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Joe
 
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Re: What's the go to rear suspension?

I used air bags (preloaded the passenger side) along with aftermarket factory style LCA mounted sway bar (Hotchkis LCA) and was hitting 1.65-1.70 60' times consistently when running a 469" motor in the 11.50-11.60 @116-117 mph range on 275-60/15 MT drag radial with nothing more than stock suspension. Even the front springs were stock rate with a KB shock all around. Dropped in the 540" motor and 60' time just fell apart. Started the suspension makeover, lowering the car, frame mounted ARB, lower rate front springs, adjustable shocks. It was a makeover still in process when I decided to sell the car. A lot has to do with what tire you're going to run. Drag radial doesn't give you the flexibility in suspension settings like a tubed bias ply where the sidewall will flex and still keep the tread in contact with the road. Drag radial instantly unloads and you're done.

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post #39 of 40 (permalink) Old Today, 6:13 AM
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Steve
 
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Re: What's the go to rear suspension?

I have all UMI rear suspension (including UMI shocks) on my '72, including the the 4047 chassis mounted bar. It works awesome.


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post #40 of 40 (permalink) Old Today, 6:15 AM
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Re: What's the go to rear suspension?

Quote:
Originally Posted by GRN69CHV View Post
I used air bags (preloaded the passenger side) along with aftermarket factory style LCA mounted sway bar (Hotchkis LCA) and was hitting 1.65-1.70 60' times consistently when running a 469" motor in the 11.50-11.60 @116-117 mph range on 275-60/15 MT drag radial with nothing more than stock suspension. Even the front springs were stock rate with a KB shock all around. Dropped in the 540" motor and 60' time just fell apart. Started the suspension makeover, lowering the car, frame mounted ARB, lower rate front springs, adjustable shocks. It was a makeover still in process when I decided to sell the car. A lot has to do with what tire you're going to run. Drag radial doesn't give you the flexibility in suspension settings like a tubed bias ply where the sidewall will flex and still keep the tread in contact with the road. Drag radial instantly unloads and you're done.
That's why I said that my comments do NOT apply to 11,12, and 13 second cars. But I believe you were on the right track when you ditched the airbag and replaced it with ARB.

In a certain way, it's kinda the same with rear no-hop bars for the upper arms vs. lift bars or relocation brackets for the lower arms. The No-hop bars for the uppers are good for 13,12, and sometimes even some 11 second A-body cars. But once you start making the power to get these cars into the 10 second and 9 second ranges, No-hop bars don't work anymore since they shorten the instant center too much. Having the IC too short for your power level not only increases the hit on the rear tires more than you need, but decreases the duration of that hit and sends the tires bouncing back up too hard and too quick back up into the wheel wells after the initial hit. It works good for some of the slower A-bodies with 400-500 HP. But once you get into the 600+HP range with these cars, the lift bars or relocation brackets for manipulating the angles of the lower arms will work better.

70 Chevelle SS clone (632 CI powered).
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