Hey guys - I’ve just done a complete front disc conversion using the Right Stuff Detailing’s Signature Series kit on a ‘67 Chevelle SS. The kit came with 13” rotors, twin spot calipers, power booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve and new brake lines. Has anyone else done this same conversion? I’ve installed everything according to the instructions and completed the break in process but I’m a little disappointed with the braking performance at the moment so I’m hoping this will improve over time. Anyone else had a similar experience?


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Hello,

I converted power front drums on my 70 El Camino to disks using a Right Stuff kit. The kit I bought has the drilled and slotted rotors. The rear drums got kept but completely rebuilt. No complaints about their kit though I do have a slight pull to the right when I apply the brakes hard. I need to look at the adjustment on the rear drums for this but I think they should be self adjusting.

Rick

Thanks Rick - yes I have the drilled and slotted rotors as well and kept the rear drums which are working perfectly. Maybe I just need to be a bit more patient. Cheers Mark


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Same for me, front disc conversion only with the the Willwood large piston area calipers, rebuilt drums in back. Works ok, power booster rod/pedal don’t return all the way, they promised to send a new booster out after troubleshooting on the phone.

That was almost 2 years ago, still waiting on the Booster.

No more any of their stuff for me!

What exactly is it about the braking performance that you are disappointed with? Does the pedal feel strange? Does the car not stop well?

In case this is your problem on power brakes the pedal does not come all the way back to the rubber bumper under the dash.

x2

I don’t have any issues with the pedal returning to it’s normal position, my main problem is the car simply doesn’t stop anywhere near as well as it did with the original power assisted drums on the front and applying more pressure to the pedal makes it lose fell (goes hard) with no noticeable improvement in slowing


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I'd try to bleed the master cylinder and lines again.

Rick

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Thanks Rick - when I bled the master cylinder I did it on the car attached to the booster, it seemed to work fine. I’ve read since that this should be done on a bench prior to attaching to the booster. I wonder could this have caused any issues?


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