I’m doing a Kore 3rear disc conversion on my 67 Chevelle. On the driver side rear Im having an issue with the parking brake assembly making contact as I spin the wheel. The contact is pretty substantial. I swapped the passenger side rotor to the driver side and the issue goes away.

The brake adjuster has almost zero tension on the brake assembly.
The axles are new.

The Power Stop rotors are brand new but I’ve had the kit for well over a year.

Does anyone know if it’s possible to “resurface”the drum in hat portion of the rotor to true it up? I have a call out to Tobin to see if he has any suggestions as well

Joe

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The parking brake shoe can move quite a bit with the tension springs/clips that hold it on. Have you tried putting the rotor on and snugging it with a couple nuts to ensure it’s on solid, then move the parking brake lever a couple times to let it self-center?

Ben,

Here is the odd thing, when I put the rotor on and push it firmly against the axle flange, I can spin the rotor with no issues. Only once I put the rim on and tighten the lug nuts, in a star pattern and in stages, does the drag intensify.

When I go back up to work on her, next weekend, I’ll attempt to cycle the parking brake lever a few times.

This is my first exposure to a Corvette set up. The adjuster spreads to circular brake shoe platform while two guides hold the device in close proximity to the backing plate. The passenger side has no where near the resistance when placed on the driver side. That’s why I suspect the warp, out of round, condition. If both locked up, I’d suspect an axle or flange issue.

Joe

The other thing I’d wonder is if the rotor is hitting the backing plate or something, since it happens once tight. I’d look for any spots where it looks like something might be rubbing or wearing.
Assuming the axle is turned down or chamfered to fit the recess in the drum? Or if these are aftermarket, do they need that? (Mine are C5 parts and the chevelle axle flange had to be turned down .1” or so. I see yours are aftermarket axles though).

Ben,

I thought that as well, in regards to the axle flange diameter so I took (5) 1/2 lock washers put them on the studs then put on the rotor then attached the tire. The thickness pushed the rotor approx 1/8 off the flange. Still no difference in the lock up. By lock up, I can power through it but I have to put some effort to move past the lock up point.

The drum portion does have a rub pattern, see initial photo, like the drum is tapered.

I’m friendly with my local repair center so I’ll ask him about the possibility of touching up my rotor on the brake lathe. So far no reply from Tobin.

Joe