Understood, and I'm not discounting anything any of you have advised. At least for now, this is the look I can't talk myself out of right now. With all the modern cars with huge hoops and bagged suspensions laying frames, it just motivates me to do something different.

The car doesn't get driven much or far, unfortunately, so I'm not too concerned ultra fine tuning the driveability. I'd just like to smoke some tires occasionally to make myself smile and the rest of the time it's my cruiser to cart the kids around and showoff who's got the cooler dad B-). I think when I renewed my registration in the spring I had only put 2500 miles on it in the previous two years.

Here’s my Dads 69 post SS in 71 setting at stock ride height. You need to lower it down to factory height.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Had Wheel Hop with the Stock Rear Upper & Lower Control Arms
so bought some No Hop Brackets from Edelbrock which I have not installed yet

As I found some things that worked just as good if not better without having to modify the Rearend Ribs to make them fit
So no more Wheel Hop

Went to UMI Perf and bought sets of these ;
1. 64 - 67 A Body Rear Control Arm Kit, Fully Boxed Lowers, Adjustable Uppers
1964-1967 GM A-Body Rear Control Arm Kit, Fully Boxed Lowers, Adjustable Uppers [402119] - $539.99 : UMI Performance, Inc.

2. 64-67 GM A-Body Control Arm Reinforcements/Frame Braces
1964-1967 GM A-Body Control Arm Reinforcements/Frame Braces [4029] - $149.99 : UMI Performance, Inc.

And bought Stock Rear Replacement Coil Springs from Moog # 5385 with Comp Eng 3 Way Adj Shocks set at 50/50
plus a set of Air Lift1000 Air Bags # 60744 for the Track Time for adjusting Launches

The Front Suspension is now old School with Moroso Trick Springs # 47195 250 lbs
with a 1" Spacer and Comp Eng 3Way Adj Shocks set at 80/20

How the car looked before as it would have come from the Factory
Stock SBC Springs Ride Height in Front - Ground to center Underside of Fender Lip = 27” and 25.5" at the Back with the old Stock Springs



How she looks now
Moroso Trick Springs with a 1" Space Ride Height in Front - Ground to center Underside of Fender Lip = 25”
and 25.5" at the Back with the Moog Replacement Stock Springs

I ordered mine from them over the phone. They shipped 'em and I got 'em rather quickly too.

I got lucky on mine. My wheel hop went away with Hotchkis lowers and adjustable uppers. Next step would have been the no hops.

Back in the day these were the hot ticket to stop wheel hop. Day 2 technology and day 2 looks. https://southsidemachine.com/product...rlo-el-camino/

throw ya a set of ladder bars on they may be ol school but they get the job done

The south side machine bars work great. They brackets that mount to the axle lower the rear mounting point about 2 inches. They move your stock instant center from the headlight area to the drivers seat area. Huge in planting the rear tires.
I have a 69, 300 also and used them for about 20 years. I put in an aftermarket 12 bolt and almost reinstalled them.

And make the car ride like a chuckwagon.

I have the MR. Gasket No-Hop bars and they work. They are no longer available but look like the T/A units. You will have to remove the bushings in the rear axle and discard, but that is the hardest part of the install. They are a must if you want your car sitting up high like that.

Get the book HOOK AND LAUNCH,
by the legendary A-body racer.

40+ year successful career, driving & building his many innovative Olds, big & small-blocks.

Then, you'll understand your A-body chassis/suspension & how best to max the hook.

Plus, you'll be aware his GM A-body No-Hop bars are uniquely designed to work best.

Dick Miller Racing dot.com

For sure, and scarred the rear axle tubes, but I can assure all, you WILL NOT HOP with those bars on! You'll be bouncing off the rubber snubbers! They do SUCK for ride quality, yet when I removed them, I had so much hop it was funny.

Now I have heavy but short springs in the rear of my car, but I think these folks are onto something. If you prefer the higher look, then you really ought relocate the centers of those upper arms.

And Shawn, dont call me sir! I barely made E5!

Dick Miller's book is likely worth every penny of the $26...the Amazon price.

UMI Perf has the Relocation Brackets
Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets : UMI Performance, Inc.
$80. or $ 150

This is a quote from your first post in this thread
: With the car leveled on stands, I've got -4* at the tailshaft and balancer (checked both to be sure) and I set the pinion to -1*, so total is -5*, right? Is that too much?
I may be wrong but I think you should double check it with it at ride height to see if it changes too much one way or the other.

I had the SSM brackets (they suck) and I replaced them with UMI's brackets -- night and day difference. MUCH BETTER BRACKETS!

I used to get nasty wheel hop on my Chevelle with stock suspension. So back in the 90s I got a set of those inexpensive air bags maybe $50 for the pair. I installed one bag inside the coil spring just on the passenger side and set it to 20 psi. I never had wheel hop again. Maybe I got lucky.