Brake Lines for Power Disc Conversion - Chevelle Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions & more.

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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 13th, 19, 6:41 PM Thread Starter
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Cody
 
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Brake Lines for Power Disc Conversion

I am working on converting my 70 chevelle 2 door hardtop to front disc brakes. I've got it mostly installed but the kit I bought also upgrades to a power booster for the brakes and the new proportioning valve has a bracket to mount beside the booster. It looks like the factory proportioning valve was mounted on the frame so I don't think the original brake lines will fit correctly with this set up. I was trying to find a replacement set of brake lines but none of the kits I found for sale mention whether they will fit this type of set up. From my understanding the proportioning valve was always on the frame for 70 chevelles???

Does anyone know what I need to look for in a new brake line kit? Alternatively, could I just mount the new proportioning valve where the old one was?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 13th, 19, 6:50 PM
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Troy
 
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Re: Brake Lines for Power Disc Conversion

When I did mine, the kit from Right Stuff came with two new front lines that went from the new prop valve mounted at the MC to each front wheel.
I would think whoever you got the kit from will have the correct lines.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 13th, 19, 7:45 PM
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Re: Brake Lines for Power Disc Conversion

Install your new valve in the original location on the frame. It looks better out of sight (i.e. IMHO the valve looks stupid mounted up by the M/S)! You might be able to reuse your existing brake lines.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 13th, 19, 7:51 PM
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Roger
 
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Re: Brake Lines for Power Disc Conversion

Be careful mounting the proportioning valve on the frame. It'll work if you have 'adequate' space between the valve and your exhaust manifold or header. If the valve is too close to the headers, the heat from the header will heat up the brake fluid and will lock up your brakes. This happened to me and it took some interesting trouble shooting to identify the issue.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 13th, 19, 8:15 PM
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Bill
 
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Re: Brake Lines for Power Disc Conversion

I went thru that same situation when I bought the 'right stuff' booster and valve kit. I called them and got the two lines for the front. I don't remember the rear line being a problem. Since my exhaust header was almost touching the valve, I was glad to relocate it.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 13th, 19, 9:30 PM
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Steve
 
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Re: Brake Lines for Power Disc Conversion

I just redid my brakes last week and this time I tried the nickel copper line. It's really easy to work with and the kits from ebay include the spring covers and plenty of fittings. I redid the whole car in a couple hours. I left the combo valve at the MC. I'm sold on the stuff.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 13th, 19, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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Cody
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZZ69chevelle View Post
I just redid my brakes last week and this time I tried the nickel copper line. It's really easy to work with and the kits from ebay include the spring covers and plenty of fittings. I redid the whole car in a couple hours. I left the combo valve at the MC. I'm sold on the stuff.
I was thinking about doing that since it is so much cheaper than the pre-bent lines. Did you just route them the same way the factory lines had been? Can you share the link for the kit you bought from ebay?
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 13th, 19, 11:11 PM
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Re: Brake Lines for Power Disc Conversion

Quote:
Originally Posted by goodnight144 View Post
Can you share the link for the kit you bought from ebay?
I bought mine at Amazon

Just search for 25' 3/16" copper nickel brake line

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 13th, 19, 11:32 PM
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Steve
 
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Re: Brake Lines for Power Disc Conversion

The kit I bought came with 25' of 3/16" and 25' of 1/4". The rear line is 1/4" and the front lines are 3/16". This is the one I bought.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Copper-Nick...72.m2749.l2649

I just took the old lines out and roughly matched the new ones up, but left them long enough to reroute them from the frame valve to the new location at the master cylinder location. The booster kit I bought from Summit, (Right Stuff) came with a new MC, combination valve, and the short lines for the valve. It didn't come with a centering tool for beeding though.
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