Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up? - Chevelle Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions & more.

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post #1 of 54 (permalink) Old May 31st, 19, 3:10 PM Thread Starter
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Dan
 
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Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

My 69 Chevelle has a Right Stuff Disc Brake Conversion kit . After driving for few minutes the brakes start to drag, then you can smell them and if you stop they will lock up . After about ten minutes they cool down and you can drive again . Any ideas ? This is pretty frustrating . Thanks!
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post #2 of 54 (permalink) Old May 31st, 19, 3:35 PM
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

when the brakes start to lock up , pop a bleeder to see if pressure is present. If so , master cylinder push rod may be too long
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post #3 of 54 (permalink) Old May 31st, 19, 4:42 PM
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

mine do this on the rear disc only in my '68. it too is a right stuff kit. following this post...
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post #4 of 54 (permalink) Old May 31st, 19, 7:20 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

Quote:
Originally Posted by driveshaft-texas View Post
when the brakes start to lock up , pop a bleeder to see if pressure is present. If so , master cylinder push rod may be too long
Thank you for the response ! So when I get back home I should open a bleeder and see if it squirts out?
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post #5 of 54 (permalink) Old May 31st, 19, 7:47 PM
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

BRN2RN. Agree with Harold on push rod maybe too long. If you loosen the bolts on the master cylinder and it jumps forward the rod is most likely the culprit. had to take .090 off mine to get the front brakes to release all the way.


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post #6 of 54 (permalink) Old May 31st, 19, 7:52 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SKIS69SS View Post
BRN2RN. Agree with Harold on push rod maybe too long. If you loosen the bolts on the master cylinder and it jumps forward the rod is most likely the culprit. had to take .090 off mine to get the front brakes to release all the way.
Thank You !
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post #7 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 19, 3:16 AM
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

What they said about the pushrod. The plunger in the M/C needs to be able to get ALL the back to rest position. If it doesn't a tiny little relief port is covered up and pressure builds. This is a very common issue these days with all the aftermarket being used.

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post #8 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 19, 8:21 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Mobley View Post
What they said about the pushrod. The plunger in the M/C needs to be able to get ALL the back to rest position. If it doesn't a tiny little relief port is covered up and pressure builds. This is a very common issue these days with all the aftermarket being used.
Thank You !
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post #9 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 19, 7:47 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

Well I adjusted the push rod and it didn't make a difference . Even after separating the the master cylinder and booster TWO front brakes remain locked . I even tried putting two small washers between the Booster and MC, no difference. Any ideas? Remember it's both front brakes that lock! After a cool down they release.

Last edited by BRN2RUN; Jun 23rd, 19 at 8:12 PM.
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post #10 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 19, 8:59 PM
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

Where is your proportioning valve located? On the MC or on the frame in the original location?
Do you have headers?
If the proportioning valve is on the frame and you have headers, the heat from the headers may be heating up the P-valve, which means the fluid is getting hot, which means the brakes will lock up. Then release when the fluid cools down.
It happened to me after adding headers to my Elky. I had to relocate the P-valve to the MC.
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post #11 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 19, 10:42 PM
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

Is the piston in the master fully retracting? Also if you bench bled the master and over stroked it, the seals can invert and prevent the piston from actuating properly.
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post #12 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 19, 7:54 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DrPepper View Post
Where is your proportioning valve located? On the MC or on the frame in the original location?
Do you have headers?
If the proportioning valve is on the frame and you have headers, the heat from the headers may be heating up the P-valve, which means the fluid is getting hot, which means the brakes will lock up. Then release when the fluid cools down.
It happened to me after adding headers to my Elky. I had to relocate the P-valve to the MC.
I was thinking along those lines , but the PV is located by the MC !
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post #13 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 19, 8:00 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

Quote:
Originally Posted by LevonH View Post
Is the piston in the master fully retracting? Also if you bench bled the master and over stroked it, the seals can invert and prevent the piston from actuating properly.
How can I tell if the piston in the MC is fully retracting? When I got home and jacked the front of the car up, you couldn't turn the wheels by hand. I separated the MC from the booster and still the wheels where locked . It wasn't till they cooled down that I could turn the wheels!
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post #14 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 19, 8:12 PM
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2 ways.
1) with the master cylinder pulled away from the booster, is the piston fully moved to the rear of the master closest to the booster?
2) with someone watching the master with its lid off and someone gently operating the brake pedal you should be able to see a small "geyser" erupt from the bottom of the master each time the brake is pushed and released. That is fluid entering and leaving the piston port of the master. It's a small hole at the bottom of each reservoir.
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post #15 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 19, 8:17 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

Thank You!
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