Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up? - Page 3 - Chevelle Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions & more.

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post #31 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 19, 11:58 AM
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Levon
 
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Gently see if the pushrod can be removed. SOME WILL SOME WON'T. You can then see how it shortens. The lock nut needs to be loosened so you can turn the pin in. Then retighten. Post a clear pic of the inside of the back of the master. Want to make sure your piston is retracting. Something looks off but it may just be the pictures?????
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post #32 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 19, 12:11 PM
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Levon
 
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

I just sent a PM to a fellow TCer who I always got great advice from on these matters. Hopefully he will chime in soon.

In the mean time here is some more to read through if you haven't already.

https://www.chevelles.com/forums/16-...oster-pin.html
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post #33 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 19, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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Dan
 
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

Thats a great Link, I'll continue to read through it!
The push rod doesn't seem to be removable .
Couldn't really get a "clear" picture of the back end of the MC while it's still attached , but just by feeling it seems to be all the way back. Remember brakes didn't lock after pulling back the MC.
Thank You!
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post #34 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 19, 12:31 PM
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

Just for clarity, did the brakes work correctly at one time prior to now?
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post #35 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 19, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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Dan
 
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

This was a father /son project that became all father ! We did things as the budget would allow , so after getting the kit at the Super Chevy Show we had them installed and started on other things, only driving the car very short distances . It definitely had the problem before I did the big block swap . But I'm not sure if they "ever" worked correctly!
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post #36 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 19, 12:50 PM
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

Read post 15 here. You may have the wrong master cylinder if they left the drum/drum one on.

https://www.camaros.net/forums/33-ca...ocking-up.html
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post #37 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 19, 12:56 PM
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Your master cylinder is a corvette style. So the ac delco would go on from a c3
The adjuster looks to be screwed all the way down shortest possible setting. Look at your pedal adjustment. Back it off at the pedal. Make sure your in the power brake hole not the manual on the pedal and it’s resting against the rubber pad. Full forward
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post #38 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 19, 1:09 PM
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Mines in the lower hole but you should have some adjustment in the pedal to booster. Just make sure your resting against the pad like in the photo. Make sure you have the return spring hook up to the pedal also.
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post #39 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 19, 1:51 PM
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

Quote:
Originally Posted by LevonH View Post
Gently see if the pushrod can be removed.

DON'T! Pulling the push rod of BENDIX booster (adjustable pin) may cause the reaction disc to fell at the bottom of the booster (the reaction disc can stick to the push rod and fell off the power piston). If that happens, you need to disassemble the booster to fetch it and reinstall it. Not a problem with DELCO boosters.




The BENDIX booster has always the "long" push rod by design. The fact that the "washer" trick didn't work tells me that you must have a m/c with a shallow recess in its piston, which is made for a short push rod. No adjustment can compensate for that, there is over 1" of difference between the two.


You need to replace the m/c (or at least its piston) with one with a deep recess, or replace your booster with a DELCO model, with a short push rod of course (long & short push rod are interchangeable on any DELCO booster). There are no "short" push rods for BENDIX boosters.





Left: Deep recess. (About 1" deep) Right: Shallow recess. (Almost flush)
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post #40 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 19, 1:59 PM Thread Starter
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Dan
 
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

Thanks again everyone for your input !

Jack, Does that mean they mismatched the parts initially ?

Dan
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post #41 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 19, 2:12 PM
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

I didn't know you bought the booster and m/c as a kit (I thought you already had the booster).

But if my diagnosis is right, then, yes, the parts were mismatched.
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post #42 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 19, 2:22 PM
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

Thanks Denny. ;-)
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Levon Hovagimian
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post #43 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 19, 2:29 PM
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Steve
 
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

Based on the pictures you are posting, I had the exact same setup as you at one point.

It looks like a 9" slimline booster and the same master cylinder I had.

It absolutely sucked (no pun intended) and I could never get it to work right.

I finally fixed all my brake issues by going with a Tuff Stuff dual 9" booster (part number 2229NC) and a master cylinder for a 1981 El Dorado (Raybestos part number MC39079.)

With this setup, my brakes are awesome.

EDIT: With the old Booster/MC setup, I had poor brakes, dragging issues, problems bleeding, etc. Only changing the booster/MC cured my problems. The matchup I came up with was found by talking with various companies like MBM, Right Stuff, etc. and finally finding one that actually had a conversion kit that had a dual 9" booster/MC setup. This conversion kit had good reviews, and they were kind enough to tell me what the booster/MC combo was so I didn't have to purchase an entire kit.

Old:


New:
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Last edited by lucifershammer; Jun 29th, 19 at 2:52 PM.
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post #44 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 19, 2:56 PM
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

Was this the original master cylinder that was on the car or did Right Stuff furnish it?

If original, was this a four drum brake car?

https://www.chevelles.com/forums/11102130-post23.html
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post #45 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 19, 4:06 PM Thread Starter
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Dan
 
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lucifershammer View Post
Based on the pictures you are posting, I had the exact same setup as you at one point.

It looks like a 9" slimline booster and the same master cylinder I had.

It absolutely sucked (no pun intended) and I could never get it to work right.

I finally fixed all my brake issues by going with a Tuff Stuff dual 9" booster (part number 2229NC) and a master cylinder for a 1981 El Dorado (Raybestos part number MC39079.)

With this setup, my brakes are awesome.

EDIT: With the old Booster/MC setup, I had poor brakes, dragging issues, problems bleeding, etc. Only changing the booster/MC cured my problems. The matchup I came up with was found by talking with various companies like MBM, Right Stuff, etc. and finally finding one that actually had a conversion kit that had a dual 9" booster/MC setup. This conversion kit had good reviews, and they were kind enough to tell me what the booster/MC combo was so I didn't have to purchase an entire kit.

Old:


New:
I may have to do just this........damm!
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