Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up? - Page 2 - Chevelle Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions & more.

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post #16 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 19, 8:21 PM
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Levon
 
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One other thing to check. Make sure that your caliper slide pins are clean and LIGHTLY luricated with brake system grease. I once saw a set that were painted and when the paint got hot the pads would hang up on the paint.
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post #17 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 19, 11:18 PM
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

An over full (too much fluid) master cylinder can cause these symptoms.
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post #18 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 19, 1:42 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

Still chasing it!
Didn't see the small geyser when pushing the pedal down ! = bad MC ?

Didn't even have to drive car for front brakes to lock . I just went out and raised the front of the car , both wheels turn freely. After a few minutes wheels get hard to spin . Insulated the PV and tried again, same thing, wheels get hard to spin and pedal is real hard and car was never moved!
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post #19 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 19, 1:56 PM
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If it were me I would be pulling the master and tearing it down. Piston to pin clearance or piston not fully retracting is my suspicion.
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post #20 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 19, 1:59 PM
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Just one more item. Check the delay valve below the master and make sure it's little valve moves freely. It should have a black button on its firewall side that you can depress and it should move freely.
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post #21 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 19, 6:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LevonH View Post
If it were me I would be pulling the master and tearing it down. Piston to pin clearance or piston not fully retracting is my suspicion.
X2 that’s what I would double and triple check you need a small gap in there.
There is a neat tool that I used to set the pushrod length. $25 on amazon
What MC are you using with the right stuff brakes? The AC delco Vette style can be bought cheap.
Never had a issue with RSB myself but I did have to center the calipers over the rotors properly on the rears. The provided spacers wouldn’t work.
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post #22 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 19, 6:37 PM
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Tool I was talking about.
https://youtu.be/qc6MgNNMQts
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Last edited by LevonH; Jun 29th, 19 at 3:35 AM. Reason: Added a video on the tools use.
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post #23 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 19, 12:06 AM
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

Quote:
Originally Posted by senna View Post
An over full (too much fluid) master cylinder can cause these symptoms.

I've never heard of this causing this problem. The piston in the bore is immersed in the bottom of the fluid reservoir at all times, it doesn't care how much fluid is sitting above it.


================================

BRN2RUN, tell us more about this "kit". Did it include a new master cylinder? If it did, consult the maker.

Drum brake setups have a residual pressure valve in the system to keep about 5 PSI maintained to the drum cylinder to help overcome the springs that pull back the shoes when you let go of the brakes. This cannot be used with disc brake calipers.

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post #24 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 19, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

THANKS for all the advice guys! This is what I'm working with.
Jason will the AC Delco unit fit right in ?
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post #25 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 19, 10:08 AM
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

Last year I was having trouble getting my rear brakes to bleed after a total brake system rebuild. I replaced or restored every component in the brake system except the proportioning valve and the brake pedal. I was not getting the geysers either.
Anyway I chased the problem down to the push rod being too long. I did not use the special tool but did use a straight edge and a dial caliper to determine the gap. IIRC had to remove .060 from the push rod to get the proper gap. After doing so I was able to get the geysers in the master reservoirs.
Here is a thread if you care to read it. My gap problem is discovered around post #55 or so

https://www.chevelles.com/forums/16-...t-bleed-3.html
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post #26 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 19, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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Dan
 
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

OK Guys after rereading all the helpful hints I wen't back to square one ! This time "before " starting the car I pulled the MC all the way back to the last thread and then started the car and l et it get hot . Wheels no longer are locked ! I had used the washer test earlier but evidently that didn't create enough space . So at least some progress !!!
So what might seem like a silly question....when adjusting the pushrod .
Do I turn the pin head on the end of the rod OR the nut behind it ? The rod is recessed pretty well back in the MC .
Thanks for all the help !
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post #27 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 19, 12:14 PM
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Post a picture. Sounds like you have a Bendix style booster. Want to be sure. Did you watch the video?
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Levon Hovagimian
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post #28 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 19, 12:24 PM
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

If you are talking about the push rod from the brake booster to the master cylinder that is not adjustable. At least on a factory brake booster. I had to remove mine from the booster and carefully grind off .060 on my bench grinder.
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post #29 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 19, 12:37 PM
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Levon
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blm View Post
If you are talking about the push rod from the brake booster to the master cylinder that is not adjustable. At least on a factory brake booster. I had to remove mine from the booster and carefully grind off .060 on my bench grinder.
He has parts from Right Stuff. May be a Bendix style booster.
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Levon Hovagimian
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Current Engine VortecPro 460 (513 HP) Original is resting
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1966 427 Corvette SOLD
1973 Camaro IHRA Hot Rod (LS-6 Auto)11.00 @121 (Chased a 10.99 or better) SOLD

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post #30 of 54 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 19, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Brakes get Hot,Drag,then Lock Up?

Second picture is with brake pedal pushed!
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