Power Steering Pump - Needs bleeding? - Chevelle Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions & more.

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old May 17th, 19, 3:54 PM Thread Starter
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Rick
 
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Power Steering Pump - Needs bleeding?

'67 BB - Power Steering Pump MS100-03 (I think) and Serpentine System from Eddie Motorsports


I'm very unknowledgeable when it comes to power steering and PS pumps and what-not. I haven't had the car very long, and I'm still learning about it.



My power steering was working fine. It almost was too easy to steer. I made a sharp turn into my very short driveway the other day, turning the wheel all the way to the right to the lock position. The PS pump made a little "groaning" sound (as when a pump needs fluid) and the belt chirped for a second or two. When I drove it again today, the steering has a lot of resistance, not easy like it was, but makes no out-of-place noise.



The belt (the system has a tensioner pulley) is tight and the fluid is full in the reservoir. Does it need bleeding or something after being turned hard to the lock position? Again, there are no out-of-place noises from the pump or belt. Can someone point me in the right direction to look?
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old May 18th, 19, 4:41 PM
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Jeff
 
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Re: Power Steering Pump - Needs bleeding?

Jack the front wheels off the ground, remove the pitman arm and slowly turn the steering wheel side to side for a couple minutes without the engine running..

By the way, if this is a suggestion by an AGR tech to fix one of there boxes it isn't going to work. You need to replace the AGR box...
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old May 18th, 19, 5:42 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Power Steering Pump - Needs bleeding?

Thanks, Jeff. I went out a couple of hours ago to try turning from lock to lock, and it seems to have corrected itself. I read that systems, now, are pretty much self-bleeding. I haven't driven it, just started it up (this was all before reading your post) and the steering feel back to normal. Puzzling, but I'll be happy with it.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old May 18th, 19, 8:25 PM
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Kev
 
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Re: Power Steering Pump - Needs bleeding?

I've replaced 2 boxes, pumps and lines and all I did was cycle lock to lock a few times, then topped off the fluid.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old May 19th, 19, 12:12 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Power Steering Pump - Needs bleeding?

Thanks, Kev. from what I've been reading, that seems like all that's needed.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old May 19th, 19, 1:39 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Power Steering Pump - Needs bleeding?

Took it for a ride today; still hard (stiff) to steer. After a turn, the steering wheel doesn't "return" as it should. Guess I'm looking at a failed pump.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old May 20th, 19, 10:00 AM
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Re: Power Steering Pump - Needs bleeding?

Disconnect the pressure fitting from the pump and check the pressure valve inside. They've been known to stick on occasion causing hard steering. Clearances are tight and any amount of dirt will cause it to jam inside the bore after a high pressure event (such as turning against the stop)
You may have to tap with a drift pin to pop it free.

Ed

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old May 20th, 19, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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Rick
 
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Re: Power Steering Pump - Needs bleeding?

Thanks, Ed. I just got off the phone with a tech at Maval who makes the pump. He said the same thing, that debris could have gotten into the valve when I locked it and pressure went up. He said to get a 3/8" transmission or power steering inline filter and short hose and connect it to the low pressure hose at the reservoir (easiest place). Then run it in the driveway (better not to drive it, but could) at varying RPM's for about five minutes to flush it out. Then remove the filter; don't leave it on there. He said that should free it up. He also said not to have it flushed with a machine because, often, those machines have dirt in them. I guess from previous use.

Your idea may be a place to start first because I only have 500 miles on everything and, hopefully, contaminants haven't gotten in there yet. Hopefully. Should I think about replacing that pressure valve?

Also, the steering gets worse and worse as I drive and everything warms (heats) up. So, maybe the valve sticks more and more as it gets hot?

Thanks, again, Ed, very helpful.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old May 20th, 19, 11:40 AM
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Ed
 
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Re: Power Steering Pump - Needs bleeding?

Basically this is how the relief valve works.
Under normal operation the power steering gear requires very little pressure. As you turn the wheel the pressure requirements increase, especially in parking situations. The relief valve moves back and forth within the pump bore depending on the demand. When you cranked the wheel against the stops, the valve moved to the front of the pump to relieve pressure to the steering gear and hoses preventing a seal or hose blow out. As I mentioned before if there is a little bit of dirt or debris inside the bore it will cause the valve to stick. For me it was a dog hair inside the bore LOL. Your valve should be fine after you break it free and clean the bore.
Check out the Jim Shea steering papers for an excellent description of GM power steering systems.

Jim Shea?s Steering Papers » A, B & F Car Steering

Ed

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old May 20th, 19, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Power Steering Pump - Needs bleeding?

Thanks, Ed, that is really helpful. I think you hit the nail right on the head. I was afraid I needed a new pump, but I think you are absolutely right. I don't think I'll tackle it today, though. Thanks, again.




Soooooo jealous of you and my son getting to live in San Diego!
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 19, 3:43 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Power Steering Pump - Needs bleeding?

I think we're back to normal. I used a new (really cheap) turkey baster to suck the fluid out of the reservoir because I didn't want it draining out all over the place when I removed the high pressure line. Plus, I wanted to save it to put it back in since its fresh (only 500 miles on it).

My Maval pump has a 7/8" banjo fitting for the hi pres line which came off easily. The 7/8" fitting under that was pretty tight, and I was cautious with my breaker bar, but it came off OK. This fitting has a fat O ring and a protrusion with an orifice near the bottom. The pressur valve itself didn't come out, but I pushed it down a few times against its spring. I don't know whether I actually unstuck it, but I guess I did. I wasn't sure how it worked, whether it would come out or not. I even tried using a magnet but it is either not magnetic or ???

Anyway, it was nice and free, so I wiped out everything best I could and wiped down the fitting. I put everything back together and put the clean fluid I had removed back in. I added just a little new fluid to be sure and bled it according to Maval's directions. Pretty simple: fill the reservoir, start the engine but DON'T trun the wheel. Let it settle and check the fluid. Then slowly turn the wheel from side-to-side. Keep checking the fluid.

I did all that and took it for a ride. All feels back to normal and the fluid level was fine. Right at the "Hot" mark after the drive. From now on, I'm entering the driveway from the other way (a little more room to avoid my Honda) and backing up if I have to. Learned my lesson about holding it at full lock too long.

Thanks to everyone who offered advice.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old May 23rd, 19, 11:05 AM
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Ed
 
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Re: Power Steering Pump - Needs bleeding?

Thanks Rick for the compliment.
I had to go through several bottles of fluid to get the contaminants out of of mine. That and vacuum the garage floor and the radiator/condenser thoroughly to get rid of the dog hair which was matted at the bottom. My best guess was that whenever I started the car it would suck up the hair and some of it found its way into the steering reservoir when I was adding fluid.
Found out the dog liked to sleep under the car during the summer months.

"It's always something - if it ain't one thing it's another."
Roseanne Roseannadanna

Ed

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