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Front/Rear Suspension Rebuild

5K views 36 replies 20 participants last post by  mattimuss 
#1 ·
Hello All!


I am a new member, introduced myself on Nov 1st. [https://www.chevelles.com/forums/59-new-member-introductions/1076442-hello-new-member.html]



I have finally gotten through all of the California waiting periods for inheriting the vehicle, getting the vehicle registered and insured What a time consuming, arduous journey!


I took the car for a test drive and quickly found out that it was 'restored' for an almost 80 year old man, who seldom drove over 40 mph and on intercity streets. While the car looks great, the suspension is a mess. The front tires rub the inner fender wells, the steering has a mind of it's own and the differential actually shifts/twists under moderate acceleration. The car is unsafe to drive.


Friends are all saying to rebuild the front and back with tubular control arms, coil-overs, and/or a Hotchkis suspension kit. Doing research I found that while these kits seem to be awesome, they are A LOT of $$$!!!


I am wondering what you guys have done; what you recommend.


I do not plan to drive the car hard...no road/drag racing. It's just going to be driven around town and to cars shows. Maybe a burnout every once-in-a-while. I want the car to drive nice, be stable dependable.



I do like the idea of tubular control arms, mainly for the extra adjustability.


The current front and rear suspension look factory stock, except the rear brakes have been converted to disc.


Any/all opinions/advice welcome.


v/r,
Matt
 
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#31 ·
Matt,

New aftermarket springs are often too stiff and raise the car. You need to compare to the old springs unless they have been cut.

I suggest you replace all brake lines, hard and soft. Safety issues.
Also replace the whole fuel line while you are at it.

The differential bushings are a "pain" to replace but you can do it. Drill the rubber in a few places and drive them out. I watched a guy use a torch to burn the rubber out. Maybe someone here will provide a procedure.

The front lower shock mounts should have captive (welded) nuts on the upper side of the control arm. Are they there? Are the threads there in good shape and the right size. The bolts go in from the bottom and there is no need for holding anything on top. If the nuts are not there/good take them off and weld the proper nuts in place.

While the suspension is off check the frame for cracks.
It may be a good idea to have the frame checked to make sure it is straight and level. It needs to be a rolling frame at the least.
 
#32 ·
The differential bushings are a "pain" to replace but you can do it. Drill the rubber in a few places and drive them out. I watched a guy use a torch to burn the rubber out. Maybe someone here will provide a procedure.
The differential bushings are a breeze with this tool (part number 0599). Well worth the price ($89 + shipping). You will have the old bushings out and the new ones pressed back in in less than 20 minutes. One of the best tool purchases I have made. The website does not link directly to the tool (something weird about that website). When you click on the link, then click on products, then click on Bushing Tool in the blue section to see what it looks like (I will include a picture of mine, too). If you want to order it, you will have to call them.

https://www.hrpartsandstuff.com/
 

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#33 ·
Thanks for the replies and information!

Verle - I bought stock springs. They look to be the same height/length as the ones I pulled out, which I feel are the original ones. I hope they improve the ride and raise the front a little. I have no idea how old the shocks are, but they look really old, so I hope new ones will help with the height/ride also.

We think alike with the brake and fuel lines. I figure that I might as well take care of them now while they are easy to get at.

Question - I found two fuel lines; one down the passenger side that runs to the fuel pump, and one down the driver side the is not connected to anything. It currently stops on the frame just before the firewall. It's wide open, not capped. Any idea what the driver side fuel line is for, and is it needed?

I found new mounting hardware for the front shocks at GroundUp SS396 for about $7. It's on its way here as I type.

The frame looks good, I have thoroughly looked it over. No cracks or signs of damage. I am hoping it's straight and true.


Wakko Warner - Thanks for the info/link for the tool! I ordered it yesterday. It looks like it's going to make it a lot easier when replacing the bushings! Any other suggestions?

Thanks again for the info/help. I'll keep updating my progress.

v/r,
Matt
"New, Novice Chevelle Mechanic"
 
#37 ·
Hello All!

First - MFortie, I am sorry to not reply to your message sooner. Work and family have been taking up all of my time. Please PM me as I would sure like to meet!

Second - I was finally able to get the car back together this past week! What a learning experience! There was lots of sweat, more cussing and some blood involved, but she's back together and on the road again!
Thanks to all for your help/info/opinions, every single response assisted with the work performed.

I took it to the alignment shop first thing Friday morning. A.J., another big help with the rebuild, looked everything over and only found one mistake. I forgot to put the cotter pin in the driver's side upper spindle nut. Other than that, everything was put together properly.

I have taken her for a couple short [less than 20 miles] test drives and the difference is night and day! None of the tires are rubbing anymore, the differential doesn't 'twist' under acceleration, the steering is firm and responsive. It rides nice, tracks straight and doesn't pull in either direction. To say that I am pleased would be an understatement!

Again, thanks to all for all the help! I am sure that I will have more questions in the future. Who knows, maybe one day I will be able to help someone!

v/r,
Matt
 

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