, Global west's website has all the information you need for a 12" conversion. They want around $1200 for the brake kit to go in their $700 upper A-arms. You can source the brake parts and better ones yourself for much less. The only thing I bought from them was the outer tie rods, upper and lower ball joints, and assembled upper A-arms with offset shafts, a few years back the whole kit was only $600. I then bought a set of 94 Impala spindles ( $80 @ junk yard), Cross drilled 12" 1LE rotors from summit (leave the 12mm 1.5 studs and get the matching lugs if you do rear discs you will need longer studs any way and you can just order those in metric so that they all match
) ($220), mid 80's rebuilt Camaro calipers from Knect's ($100), and Power Stop pads ($50). Brakes hoses from a second gen Camaro will work for the front (Global West has braided stainless for the same price or a little cheaper than quality OEM replacements both sides for $83
). Of course new bearings, seals, lower A-arm bushings, inner tie rods (stock Chevelle) and however far you want to go with rebuilding the suspension. As for hard lines your stockers will work ( I ordered stainless steel ones through Ausley's Chevelle...their service sucked and they sent the wrong lines, but when I got the right ones they fit beautifully. I used a Corvette master , because I went with the 00' Camaro SS rear discs ( very nice inexpensive rear disc w/internal parking brake conversion I have about $300 total into it and I can get replacement parts at a local parts store...same with the front brake parts and through the wheels it all looks OEM!
) Global West can tell you exactly which one to use with disc/drum, been a while and I can't remember. If you do order new hard lines I would look into having them cut the rear main mainline right next to the master cylinder 9/16" 18 thread fitting and put a 3/8" 24 flare fitting on both sides of the cut. Then you could run a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve and buy readily available adapters to go from Wilwoods ($40-50) 1/8 NPT to the 3/8 24 flare and locate it where it is easy to access for adjustment instead of right before the rear axle...where mine ended up. The adapters to put it in front of the 9/16 18 fittings are not available and that stainless line is damn near impossible to flare at home
. So far this is what I have come up with and it all seems to fit up nice. I am sure I left something out, but it ends of being a 12" front and rear (you could leave out the rear) disc tall spindle conversion that comes out a lot cheaper than buying plug and play kits if $$$ is your concern and you are willing to spend the time tracking parts down. Hope this helps some one out!