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98-02 Camaro disc brake conv.

30K views 164 replies 23 participants last post by  chibitodd 
#1 ·
Anybody do a drum to disc brake conversion in a 1970 chevelle using 1998-2002 camaro/trans am brakes? If so how did it bolt up and was there alot to it? I am interested in this route, just curious who has done this. Thanks
 
#2 ·
Not a whole lot to it. You need to either fabricate or purchase brackets for the calipers mount up to your spindles,and machine down the outer diameter of the hubs to fit inside of the Camaro rotors.You will also need longer wheel studs along with a set of Camaro brake hoses.If you search ls1 brake conversions,you will find all the info along with a video or two to help you along.You will need at least a 17 inch wheel to clear the new calipers.I have done this conversion on my 66 using the stock drum brake spindles, and would recommend this to anyone wishing to upgrade their brakes without breaking the bank. Pics in garage.
 
#3 ·
I'm pretty sure that a 16" rim will clear as I had LS1 brakes on a 97 TA that I had and 16" rims for the track. Don't see where there would be any difference from a 4th gen F Body and an A body for clearance. Also , you can clearance the calipers to clear 15" rims.
 
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#5 ·
#7 ·
I did mine a little different but picked up some better handling also. I Got a 1975 or so Impala set up but only used the spindle and caliper part, have global west offset control arms and 1989 Transam 12 inch rotor. The Impala rotor will not work as they have a 5 inch bolt spacing. It does fit my 15 inch wheels but I do agree above that may be case by case and I think what also helps is I stuck with the old single piston caliper. One nice thing about taller spindles it changes the roll center so the tire has less of a tendency to suck under the car when going around a corner.
 
#9 ·
The biggest challenge I had with the swap is the parking brake cables. Not the cable itself, but having compatible ends attached to the cable that connects the F body parking brake backing plates. Finally found someone at a local motorcycle shop to do it. But he bent me over. Charged me $70 for 5 mins of actual labor. :rolleyes:

You will need to turn down your stock front hubs on a brake lathe so the F body rotors fit over them. Plus you might need to fabricate new rear brake lines on the axle for rear hoses. I ran new lines on my entire project, so I'm unsure if I could've adapted the existing '67 hard lines.

Other than that, the swap is 100% bolt on.
 
#12 ·
Reviving this thread.
I'm in the process of doing this upgrade on my 64, four drum to four disc brakes. I went to a salvage yard for the calipers. I bought brackets from flynbye for $85 including shipping. I still have a 283 but plan to do a LS engine swap in the future. I think the LS1 master cylinder has a 1-1/8" bore for all wheel disc.

Has anybody made the master cylinder and brake booster work in their chevelle??
Any modifications to the firewall?
 
#14 ·
Has anybody made the master cylinder and brake booster work in their chevelle??
Any modifications to the firewall?
My master cylinder and 11" booster was from Right Stuff. It was intended for a disc/drum setup and had a proportioning valve (PV2) attached beside the MC.

I exchanged that PV2 valve with a PV4 which is for 4 wheel discs.

I was told that's all I need to do. It will be a while before I can road test it.
 
#13 ·
I wouldn't bother with the F body booster. Too much work to make it fit. You can mount any master on a stock '64-'66 Chevelle booster. Or better yet, find yourself a hydroboost out of a wrecked Chevy truck. That's what I did.

The Camaro master can be used but the lines come out from the engine side. I used a master from a 2006 Trailblazer SS.
 
#17 ·
Thanks for the suggestion Pete. I recently installed power steering with a Saginaw P series pump and 800 series gear box. I'll have to do more research about using a hydro boost but I like the idea of having more space under the hood. The problem with trying to customize, save money and not buy a kit, is not knowing how everything will fit. If I knew what parts were compatible it would be easier to pull parts from a salvage yard, rock auto or ebay.

I don't want my brake pedal super sensitive. How sensitive are you brakes?
If I go with hydroboost won't I have to get a power steering cooler?
I understand that a 1" bore size in the master cylinder (MC) may provide better pressure than 1-1/8" but with hydro boost does it not matter?
What proportioning valve did you use?

I imagine I could probably make a ford MC work. I've read that people use hydro boosters from Mustangs and GM Astro vans as well.
 
#18 ·
The Right Stuff front disk upgrade kit was very easy on my 70 El Camino. Somebody else has already done the hard part of solving if it all will fit and they did it at a reasonable price. And it performs well.

Why go through the agony of doing it some other way?

Rick

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
#19 · (Edited)
Good option for some. I've already obtained front/rear brake calipers, front conversion brackets, backing plates, rotors and pads for about $300. This way I can do it for less than half the cost and learn a lot more in the process. Many people online have done LS1 brake conversions.
https://www.chevelles.com/forums/16...g/1027074-f-body-disc-brakes-67-malibu-2.html
https://www.chevelles.com/forums/16-brakes-suspension-steering/851058-c5-components-not-2.html

An old neighbor steered me in this direction. Now I just need to get the right master cylinder, booster and brake lines.
 
#20 ·
An old neighbor steered me in this direction. Now I just need to get the right master cylinder, booster and brake lines.
For the brake lines, I would use nicopp lines which won't corrode and are easy to bend. Get a 25' roll of 3/16" and 1/4".

I'm finishing up a total conversion to LS1 brakes and need to ask a question about hooking up the booster (figured you might have the same problem).

My car was 4 wheel drum brakes, non-power assist.

So I've read the power booster rod that connects to the brake pedal should connect to the lower hole (there are two holes in the brake pedal).

There is a bracket that connects the rod to the pedal and I have it set at it's longest possible length and it's about 3/8" too short to reach the pedal hole when it's sitting in the retracted position ?

Do I need to lengthen the rod with a coupling ?

My booster is from Right Stuff (11").
 

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#22 ·
I got the parts at home depot to extend the rod.

But curious why a booster/master cylinder that I bought specifically for a 67 Chevelle from "Right Stuff" would have an incorrect length rod ?

The flaring tool I bought is awesome, but it only does 3/16" line. Can't find one like it to do 1/4" ?

 
#28 ·
I did a front drum to disc conversion on my 1972 El Camino.

I did not lengthen the rod. I did use the lower pedal arm hole and this resulted in a lower pedal (fine by me and somewhere I read that this is expected)- seems to be the same height as my 1972 Chevelle that came with OEM power front disc brakes.

The issue then is that the brake switch is no longer in contact with the brake pedal arm- where can I get a switch bracket for a power brake setup?

Dave
 
#29 ·
I didn't have much trouble lengthening the rod.

Shouldn't the brake pedal rest against the rubber stop on the support - just below the switch? I don't think you want the pedal "floating in the breeze"; there is a spring that helps hold it against the support.
 

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#34 ·
Beth,

"But curious why a booster/master cylinder that I bought specifically for a 67 Chevelle from "Right Stuff" would have an incorrect length rod ?"

There's a reason it's often referred to as Wrong Stuff. :)

Chassis nuts are available at HD.
 
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#38 ·
I welded an extension to the HB rod. I most likely used the stock rod & U bracket from the '67 drum brake pedal set up.


Hey Beth or anyone, what size line did you use to go from the MC to the front brakes?
From front to rear end 1/4” then T off to the rear wheels with 13/16”?
Could I use the 13/16” copper/nickel line throughout the whole thing?
3/16" is the tubing size for all the front lines. 13/16" would need an awful lot of brake fluid! :D

1/4" from the distribution block to the rear hose. Then 3/16" over the rear axles.
 
#42 ·
My car came with 3/16" lines from MC to both front wheels; 1/4" line from MC to rear end then branched out with 3/16" lines.

I have a disc/disc proportioning valve next to my MC. 3/16" lines connect the MC to the PV. Then the brake lines are as described.

Just finished them today :
 

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#47 ·
A few things...

Should I run a 1/4” line from the MC to the rear end or could I do it all in 3/16”?

I think the e-brake cable will have to wrap around the rear end to be able to pull the clip. I think there are some brackets on the 2000 Camaro that I might be able to get. How did you guys make this work on your A-body?
Here’s a picture of the right side.

Mounting the hydro booster will be interesting. The windshield wiper will have to be repositioned and it looks like the firewall will have to be modified.
Does anybody have pics of the steps they took?
 

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#48 ·
A few things...

Should I run a 1/4” line from the MC to the rear end or could I do it all in 3/16”?

I think the e-brake cable will have to wrap around the rear end to be able to pull the clip. I think there are some brackets on the 2000 Camaro that I might be able to get. How did you guys make this work on your A-body?
I did what Phillip (moderator) did, I installed the right side backing plate on the left and the left on the right.

That made the e-brake lever pull toward the front of the car so you could attach the parking brake cable without looping it over the rear end.

The Camaro calipers will mount on the rear side of the axle instead of the front.

No big deal. :D
------------------

Looks good Beth :thumbsup:
Thanks for the help :thumbsup:
 
#50 ·
Yeah, I have a different rearend, a Strange S60. I had plenty of clearance.

But you can grind or cut that shock bracket for clearance.

That's what I would do. It's much easier to have the bracket pull toward the front.

That's what Phillip did and a friend of mine at Team Camaro also did it that way.

Because that's how the stock parking brake cables work.
 
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