My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead. - Page 3 - Chevelle Tech
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post #31 of 136 (permalink) Old Sep 28th, 13, 10:03 PM
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Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

I wish I still had mine
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post #32 of 136 (permalink) Old Sep 29th, 13, 6:53 PM Thread Starter
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Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

Gas gauge needle still seem a fraction high at empty but it does at least go to empty now.
Always read at least 1/4 tank before.

Filled the tank for the first time, nineteen gallons and reads just a little over full.

New voltage regulator took care charging too.
And the ignition now switches off properly with the MSD hooked up.

Now the inside door handle does not work!
Is there a law somewhere that you can never have ONE day of everything working on an old Chevy?

No one can say a thing to me about my old British cars now.
This El Camino has had more petty issues than any Jag, Triumph, Austin-Healey, Hillman, Rover, Etc. I have ever had!

At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
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post #33 of 136 (permalink) Old Oct 2nd, 13, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

Got the vehicle actual weight today.

3,550 pounds!
I will be looking at ways to put this car on a diet.
Problem is that adding a roll-bar and IRS will increase total weight.
So actually taking weight off is not going to be easy.

Looks like I'm in the market for some good quality fiberglass body panels.

At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
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post #34 of 136 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 14, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

Getting a little done.
Got nice bucket seats from a Nissan ZX, cheap.
F'bird, 'Vette, Fiero were not going to work well.
Originals are too flat.

About to begin repairing rust around the rear window, yay!

At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
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post #35 of 136 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 14, 7:36 PM
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Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

Richard,

I'm enjoying your narrative -- very interesting! Keep us posted on your progress.

Greg

My 68
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and my 68
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. In 1968 I got my
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66 Chevelle SS. 30 years later, I got my
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. Both Chevelles are in the same location.
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post #36 of 136 (permalink) Old Jan 30th, 14, 2:52 AM Thread Starter
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Richard
 
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Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

Been a while since I had anything worthy of reporting.

Recently got a pair of new repro front fenders from a CL ad, $300.00 for the set, never on a car.

Just ordered the patch panels for under my rear window and a replacement "Package shelf". (WTH would actually SIT on that narrow curved panel anyway?)

The happiest news is that today I picked up a one-owner ex-67 Corvette M20 for $550.00.
Seller kept insisting it is an M21, I did not bother to argue as I would be happy with either.
Respect for the elderly and all that.

I have confirmed that it IS an M20.
And two hours later I found an M22 for only $200.00 more , but not as clean.
No shifter or bell, so more parts to buy when I can.
But at least I know it's not a drag racers trashed junk.
Looked inside, looks like new.
Even has the original tag under the side cover bolt, 3870354.

Gave up on recycling the rear quarters from the donor rear I bought.
They looked good, and the drivers side could be used but is a bit thin below the body line.
Passenger side is worse, seems silly to patch a patch panel.
So the next big item planned is new rear quarter panels.
Found a dealer closer to me than EC Store, AZ instead of FL, so I should save on shipping.

If funds allow I hope to sort out the rust fairly soon, clean metal will look like a whole new car.

But I do not dare finish the paint until I get the new chassis and IRS under it.

At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
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post #37 of 136 (permalink) Old May 4th, 14, 2:55 AM Thread Starter
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Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

Some warm weather at last!

Not much visible progress but I have been buying parts.
Got a used scatter-shield today for $150.00 and it does include the block saver plate.
Also has about $50.00 of grade 20 bolts holding the pieces together.

Also changed out the valve cover gaskets for thick cork today, hope that fixes the oil seeping onto the intake.

Tempted to grab a Tremec five speed a local guy is selling.
He wants $1,000.00 for it and that's probably a good price but it's for a MOPAR and would cost $400.00 more for the correct input shaft.
Not an OD model, just close ratio gears and probably pretty deep in first.
Should help a lot if I want to hammer the 327 from a standing start.
Way stronger than I will ever need.
Would allow a tall rear gear, so almost as good as overdrive.

Got my ex-Nissan bucket seats back from the upholstery shop yesterday.
Not redone, just had the foam replaced at the outside bolster since it was flattened.
Need to pull out the bench seat and make mounts.

Probably my biggest progress is that I am now splitting a shop building with another guy.
So now I actually have a place to work on cars INDOORS!

At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
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post #38 of 136 (permalink) Old May 28th, 14, 12:45 AM Thread Starter
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Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

Not a lot to report, but I have finally got my 9000# two post lift installed.
So now a body off resto is possible.
Anxious to get my Jag rear set up on the spare frame, pretty certain the bushings for the stock live axle are shot.
Really tired of the TH400, want my stick-shift BAD!
Also have a header leak, of course the passenger rear header bolt is a PITA to get truly tight.
Tags expire at the end of next month, I may just take it off the road and begin going after the work in a serious manner rather than the patchwork approach I have been doing.
Front clip removal would make a lot of what I want to much easier, but if I go that far do I dare stop before it's ALL done?
Hate to put it back together to take it apart again for the next step.
New engine is not ready, among other parts I want/need.
Hate to have it down all summer but at some point I HAVE to tackle the big issues.

At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
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post #39 of 136 (permalink) Old Jul 28th, 14, 4:33 PM Thread Starter
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Richard
 
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Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

The Jag IRS is coming along well.
I've reached the point that I need to mock up my engine and trans to check drive-line angles.
Looking for a set of V8 engine frame mounts and a cross-member.
Don't want to yank mine out as it kills the car before I am ready.
Want the new frame done before I pull the old one apart.

Looks like I will be using the 3.31 gears and open diff, the 3.54 with posi is just a bit too short geared for a daily driver.
I may put the posi into the 3.31 diff later.
Short gears also mean I will more likely build the 327 instead of the 350 since it's going to get wound pretty tight on a regular basis.

At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
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post #40 of 136 (permalink) Old Jul 29th, 14, 9:40 PM Thread Starter
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Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

One more hurdle jumped!
Needed a cross member and engine mounts to mock-up my engine and trans before welding up the IRS rear end mounts.

No original cross-members to be had locally and Summit wants silly money for them.
So I'm getting one that will do the job from Joe Vega in AZ.
Engine frame mounts, cheap motor mounts and a high end trans mount will come from Summit Racing.
Motor mount set is just for checking fit but the trans mount will be used in the actual build.
Once I get this all mocked up late next week it may be worthy of a picture.

Next major quest becomes finding a hydraulic throw out and adjustable dual MC system.
I want to be rid of the power brake booster while running four wheel disc brakes.
I think I'm at about the end of the cheap progress.
From here out I expect to start spending more money.

Edit to add, anyone ever figure out a GOOD non-power assisted rack and pinion conversion for these cars that I could put in myself while the body is off?
Do not want to create bump-steer or a spectacularly large expense.
Car is intended to lean toward "Pro-Touring" more than drag race even though it will retain 15" wheels.

At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!

Last edited by Richard/SIA; Jul 29th, 14 at 9:46 PM. Reason: Another thought.
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post #41 of 136 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 14, 12:58 AM Thread Starter
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Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

One more tiny step forward.
Today I got some 3/8" plate for the IRS mount where the diff will bolt up.

And the new SBC engine mounts, the metal stands that bolt to the frame.
Nobody had any locally, some yards were saying $100.00 a set when they have them.

Tried Summit Racing.
Under '68 Chevelle all they have are OPG at $70.00 a set.
But under '68 El Camino they have GMK at $17.97 each = $35.94 a set.

#GMK-4032-335-68L
#GMK-4032-335-68R

The saving will pay for motor mounts and part of the trans mount.

At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
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post #42 of 136 (permalink) Old Aug 8th, 14, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

Another small set-back overcome.
Got a used cross-member to trial fit the Muncie behind a bare block so I could check my drive-shaft and pinion angles.
Turns out El Camino and Convertibles use a narrower part with their boxed frames.
Already almost $100.00 into it, a correct replica would be another $150.00, putting me at almost the price of a "Trick" after-market piece.
Way too much expense for a mere mock-up!

So I cut off the excess length from the used one, slotted 1" of the remaining ends, put in a couple of pieces of flat plate to bring it out to the mounting holes.
Today I will drill the two mounting holes in each plate, check the fit, and weld it up.
Should be good enough to use for the build but I actually have an original still in the car.

Not too late for pics if anyone is interested?

It would be good to know, will the Muncie use the same frame mounting location as the TH400?

At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
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post #43 of 136 (permalink) Old Oct 19th, 14, 7:38 PM Thread Starter
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Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

Not a lot of solid progress of late as I've been too busy trying to get customers orders out.

But I did get to bring my new used engine test stand home.
No more finding leaks after the engine is in.

Today I also bought the hardware to mount my bucket seats, just have to fab the brackets.
So maybe I will get a few more rides before the weather goes completely bad.

Trying to decide which rear patch panels to buy, not liking the partial panels that seem to be all that are available semi-locally.
Might have to organize a group buy to shave shipping cost if the only complete panels available come from the east coast.

At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
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post #44 of 136 (permalink) Old Oct 24th, 14, 11:54 PM Thread Starter
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Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

Seat brackets are done, not beautiful but very solid.
Floor is stripped of carpet and sound deadener so I want to take care of that before bolting in the seats.
Have to check but I expect that 4-speed carpet may be different?
Probably going to fab my own center console too.
Thinking I will skip a roll bar but will put in a seat belt shoulder harness bar.
Intent is to use factory mounting holes as much as possible.

At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
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post #45 of 136 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 14, 5:24 AM Thread Starter
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Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

Stripped down the engine test stand to clean it up.
Found out who made it, an original design by Fred Smith, AKA Sunfire Research.
Fred built a lot of hot street, race, and LSR engines including Chevy although he was partial to Fords.
He passed away a couple of years ago.
This engine stand has one feature I particularly like, the radiator is hinged so it can be swung aside to put the engine into the test stand from the front.
I will post pics once I get it painted and reassembled.

Found a thread that gave measurements for the 4-speed shifter hump location.
Marked mine out to see how it will work with my seats.
Seems the hump would basically be dead center on the tunnel and a bit further forward than I expected.
I remember my 4-speed Formula 400 having a curved shifter to bring it further back.
I like a short tight shifter near my right hip, probably from all the sports cars I've had like my old Jag XKE.
Anyone have a setup to relocate the shifter back and slightly to the left that works well?
I have seen threads stating that 67 shifters and humps sit a couple of inches to the left, true?
I have not cut the floor yet and have no real concern for "Original" as I'm building this car for me, not resale.
I have a lot of room between the seats so will probably make my own console.

At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
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