My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead. - Page 2 - Chevelle Tech
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post #16 of 136 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 13, 5:20 PM Thread Starter
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Richard
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: No. Nevada
Posts: 553
Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Malibulvr View Post
Love the look of this, those wheels are awesome. What are the sizes of the wheels, backspace, tires and make?
7" front and 8" rear.
Not sure how the back-space is measured.
Fronts have been replaced and the wheels are off the car, have to get some $$$ together to do the rear.

Now up for sale as I am going to the exact same in 15", https://www.chevelles.com/classifieds...=61729&cat=500

Here's a pic of the "New" front after I detailed it with some paint to match the future body color.
Tri-Bar spinners as soon as Summit ships them.
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At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
Richard/SIA is online now  
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post #17 of 136 (permalink) Old Aug 30th, 13, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
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Richard
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: No. Nevada
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Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

Had to leave the car alone for a while since my back was acting up.

Decided to change out the manifold and eliminate a possible source for the oil leak.
Trying the silicone in place of the rubber gasket this time, I will be pretty annoyed if it does not work out.
Putting on a Performer RPM in place of the old Q-Jet Performer and square bore double pumper adapter.

Wish some one would have told me I need a spacer to use this setup, the port for manifold vacuum sits right under the secondary fuel squirter.
I could block it off if this were a race car, but I need my power brakes on the street.
Only answer appears to be a spacer, $45.00 not budgeted for and will raise the carb even higher.
Pretty big plenum already, I really did not want to make it even larger.
I think I will radius the bottom side of the spacer holes to try to even out the flow a little, get rid of the sharp edges.
If I did not really need the cowl hood before I do now!

Also installing some spreader bars on the valve covers for better sealing.

Hoping to get back to the bodywork soon.

At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
Richard/SIA is online now  
post #18 of 136 (permalink) Old Sep 1st, 13, 6:33 PM Thread Starter
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Richard
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: No. Nevada
Posts: 553
Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

Note to self: NEVER ever buy the Summit racing brand of any part, the "savings" are not worth it!

Got the manifold snugged down, distributor timed, etc.
Went for a short drive, no smoking headers so the major oil leak is finally fixed.

But now I have oil along the edge of the manifold, valve covers are leaking!
So much for the steel reinforced rubber Summit brand gaskets.
And of course the fuel line fitting for the front carb bowl is now dripping on the manifold I spent so much effort getting to look like new.
Gas stains hot aluminum very quickly!

Taking a couple days off from working on it, not a happy camper right now.
Will require more dollars to buy decent quality parts, I've never owned another car that was such a money pit for routine and trivial items.

It idles and drives OK now, but still seems a bit lazy to me, definitely still shifts too early, still cannot really feel the secondaries kick in.
Not dumping another $600.00 into another torque converter change.
Probably just tolerate it until I can put a real transmission in, I've never liked slushboxes anyway.
Five speed is still stupid expensive, so it's probably getting a Muncie from a 'Vette.
Found one for $400.00, should have put it in already instead of fooling around with the torque converter.

Picking up a strait '69 frame on Tuesday so I can work out my IRS and disk brake conversion.
May just swap frames afterward.

At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
Richard/SIA is online now  
 
post #19 of 136 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 13, 3:22 AM Thread Starter
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Richard
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: No. Nevada
Posts: 553
Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

OK, I'm a little less irate now.

Guess I will pull the %#[email protected] valve covers and use some gasket goop this time.
Reading threads here it seemed some guys think dry works better.
Did that, they leak!
New synthetic oil and filter this morning, after only about a hundred miles since I wanted to clean out what may have been run before.

I've spent far too much more time under this car and under the hood than in the drivers seat!
Summer is nearly over, and now I want to change out the trans too since the TH400 is just no fun at all.
Maybe I can add a transfer case and put the TH400 in my 4x4 truck?

At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
Richard/SIA is online now  
post #20 of 136 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 13, 9:08 AM
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KeithD
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: The Springs, CO. USA
Posts: 4,030
Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

Sounds like a pretty normal project to me. Fix one thing, the next thing down the line goes out, and on and on and on. Progress is looking good though. Your tenacity will pay off.

Love those slot mags!

I don't know about any one else, but for valve cover gaskets I've only ever used the cork ones. Super weatherstrip adhesive or permatex #2 to attach them to the valve covers, a wipe with brake cleaner on the heads where they attach before I put them on and leaks stay at a minimum or don't happen.

Keep up the good work, and enjoy the driver's seat moments when you do get them :thumbup:

"You laugh because I am different. I laugh because you are all the same."

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post #21 of 136 (permalink) Old Sep 5th, 13, 1:46 AM Thread Starter
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Richard
 
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Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

Okay, new metal fuel line for the carb, so that should be fixed.

Pulled the valve covers again.
Pulled the gaskets and could clearly see where oil had been passing under and over them.
Despite not liking it I bought some Permatex non-harding gasket sealer.
Cleaned every sealing surface, applied a light coat of the Permatex to both sides of the gasket.
Letting it sit overnight.
If it still leaks either these gaskets are junk, too thin, or I am bottoming the edge of the valve cover on the Performer RPM manifold.
The last seems possible as although I cannot SEE that happening, both sides leaked oil on the intake side.
Looking at the rubber gaskets they appear to have been well compressed as you can see a line from the sealing surface of the heads.

I would like to replace these chrome tin covers with finned aluminum but the budget says that has to wait.

So I will see how it goes in the morning, if they still leak I will need some thicker gaskets.

Got the "New" frame home and it appears to be strait.
One very small repair at the very front of the drivers side.
Guy I bought it from says he drove the car it came from and that it tracked strait with no unusual handling issues.
Looks like an IRS conversion may not be as simple as I had hoped.
I will probably have to remove the original spring pockets and some other no longer needed brackets.

First mockup.

At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
Richard/SIA is online now  
post #22 of 136 (permalink) Old Sep 5th, 13, 6:06 PM Thread Starter
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Richard
 
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Location: No. Nevada
Posts: 553
Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

Well a few more fixes and it looks like I may finally put a few miles on it before winter.

The new steel fuel line leaked at the carb worse than the old one.
Tired of this, went to the hardware store and bought some small copper washers.
Pre-formed them using the old steel line and a spare carb fitting, making sure they were centered before tightening the fitting.
Once formed I put them into the new line, now it's bone dry at last.

Made a formed steel line from the fuel filter to the carb too.
Short rubber lines at each end but I don't have to worry about it getting eaten by the alternator.

So far it looks like the valve cover gaskets are holding oil IN.
It does look I may have just a fraction of contact with the manifold, so next time I will get some "Thick" gaskets.
I could grind some clearance on the edge of the valve covers but do not want to do that.

Here's an updated pic of the engine, different manifold, carb spacer, and finally running well.
Still a little less snap-responsive than I would like but pretty good.

It will have to do until I get the new frame, M21, and IRS rear completed.


At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
Richard/SIA is online now  
post #23 of 136 (permalink) Old Sep 5th, 13, 7:31 PM
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Dave
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Aloha Oregon, a rainy but very green Portland suburb
Posts: 4,548
Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

Very cool! I am becoming a fan of the 68-69 Elcamino's quickly. Especially in my business where I need a light duty pickup sometimes but still need a nice classic driver with my company name on it in gold leaf to meet with customers.

My "Time Machine", sold and gone. Looking for another.

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post #24 of 136 (permalink) Old Sep 6th, 13, 2:35 AM Thread Starter
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Richard
 
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Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

Quote:
Originally Posted by YankeeRodder View Post
Very cool! I am becoming a fan of the 68-69 Elcamino's quickly. Especially in my business where I need a light duty pickup sometimes but still need a nice classic driver with my company name on it in gold leaf to meet with customers.
Gold leaf?
Paint it roman red or cobalt blue!

Looks like I finally have mine tuned just about right.
And the leaks have not come back, yet?

Despite a little too tall converter/gears it will burn a tire pretty well a few feet after I start as the cam comes on, chirps very hard into second.
If I had my M21 in this puppy I would be in jail by now, and still smiling.

Thinking a governor mod kid will just about take care of it now until the new frame, 327 engine, and M21 are ready next year.

At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
Richard/SIA is online now  
post #25 of 136 (permalink) Old Sep 8th, 13, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
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Richard
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: No. Nevada
Posts: 553
Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

Little more progress of sorts today.

Got the drivers side skin off of the spare rear clip.

Started on the passenger side glad that it should be easier without the gas door to deal with.
Found that what looked like very minor surface rust goes right through.
Only a problem below the body line, so only about $50.00 for a patch panel.
Yah, I'm going to patch my major body patch in order to fix the rear quarter and wheel well rust.
Still much less expensive than ordering a whole skin at around $300.00 when shipping is included.

Want to get this done before winter, so time remaining is short.

At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
Richard/SIA is online now  
post #26 of 136 (permalink) Old Sep 9th, 13, 3:26 AM Thread Starter
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Richard
 
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Location: No. Nevada
Posts: 553
Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

Remembered that I have an MSD 6A lying around and decided to put it in.
I already have an MSD distributor.

Engine compartment is a bit crowded since I have a factory AC car.
I have no AC compressor or mounts and really am unlikely to ever mount one.
So I'm thinking I can clean up the engine bay a bit by removing the AC parts from the firewall.
I will keep them in case I ever sell the car, which is unlikely after putting so much work into it.
A trade on a '59 might be another story.

Can I just fab an aluminum cover (Save weight!) for the resulting hole in the firewall, or do I need something in particular?
Thinking I could mount the 6A to the new cover for a cleaner install?
My heater fan motor is dead too, with winter coming I have to fix it as well.

At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
Richard/SIA is online now  
post #27 of 136 (permalink) Old Sep 11th, 13, 9:00 PM Thread Starter
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Richard
 
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Location: No. Nevada
Posts: 553
Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

The MSD 6A may be coming back off.
No apparent improvement in performance and now the ignition does not switch off properly.
The tach is much steadier though.
I already had an MSD "Ready to run" distributor, that made wiring more complex but it will be easy to reverse.

Got a look at the Muncie I am getting.
Was told M21, but with two rings on the input I think it's an M20.
I have stock gears in back now, about 3000 RPM at 70 MPH.
The new rear tires may help that a fraction as they will be 1" taller.
With the TH400 they seem taller from a standing start.
The Jag rear will be around 3.54 and Posi.
I think the M20 will be fine, an M21 would probably have been fine too.
Not drag racing just unhappy having so little direct control with the TH400.

Got the two-post lift off the truck.
Shop sure got a lot smaller when I began trying to find room to set it up!

At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
Richard/SIA is online now  
post #28 of 136 (permalink) Old Sep 19th, 13, 4:31 AM Thread Starter
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Richard
 
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Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

My score of the day, three books.

"1968 Chevelle and El Camino factory assembly instruction manual".
"1968 Chassis service manual, Chevrolet - Chevelle - Camaro - Chevy II - Corvette".
"Body by Fisher 1968 service manual".

Paid all of $45.00 and a hundred mile round trip for them.
Too much?
Each book is about an inch thick, no way I could scan all of that.
But if anyone needs a specific page I can probably scan and PM it.

This should make the rest of my restoration a bit easier.

At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
Richard/SIA is online now  
post #29 of 136 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 13, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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Richard
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: No. Nevada
Posts: 553
Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

Todays score is a Jag XJ6 rear end that I got in trade for the tired SBC 400 I pulled out of the El Camino.
I wanted $150 for it, a very good Jag rear would have been around $500 and probably still in need of some rebuilding.
I got a rear with all the important pieces and TWO center sections.
One is an open diff and 3.31 gears, the other is a posi with 3.54 gears.
It will need new LCA bearings and brakes, probably new rear seals too.

By the time it is "Right" it will be more expensive but virtually new.
At least I now have what I need to begin figuring out the frame mounts.


At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
Richard/SIA is online now  
post #30 of 136 (permalink) Old Sep 28th, 13, 9:55 PM Thread Starter
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Richard
 
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Location: No. Nevada
Posts: 553
Re: My rusty '68 "Custom" rising from the dead.

Tired of never knowing for sure how much gas I have so I pulled the gas tank today.
I bought a new sending unit months ago, time to put it in.

Found the old one probably worked except that the fuel intake screen is trashed, and the float arm was hitting the pick-up tube before it reached the bottom of it's travel.
That might be why it never read below 1/4 tank?

Happily the inside of the tank is clean.

These are pretty small tanks, very shallow.
I'm definitely going to need that second tank in the smugglers box.

Scoured off the surface rust from the outside and painted it with cold galvanize for protection.
I may add a layer of enamel too so that it cleans up easy.

Using some nylon webbing to replace the rotted oiled cardboard the factory had in there between the tank and frame.

Also changing out the voltage regulator since the alternator checks out as being good but I'm suddenly not getting a charge to the battery.

I've decided I'm glad I bought another frame as getting the Jag rear in is not going top be as simple as I had hoped.

At these gas prices I want it 100+ octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
Richard/SIA is online now  
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