Team Chevelle banner

6.0 build

22K views 64 replies 12 participants last post by  JF74chevelle 
#1 ·
My buddy has a LS block and had it already machined. It’s 6.0 block with rods and crank. Said he’ll give me a good deal on it. So I’ll probably be picking that up soon. It’s bored .030 over and just needs to be honed when the piston selection is made.

This is going to be a NA build, daily driver with a T56. How would you guys built it? Has anyone ran the 5.3 heads on a 6.0? He said that is a good combination. Thank you in advance.
 
#2 ·
I ported some 5.3 heads and some LQ9 heads.
I say go small chamber. I tried to get my buddy to go small chamber..I feel the smaller valve could allow more piston to valve clearance. Yea I would leave the smaller valves in them.

But I am old school and like a lot of compression..Heck these engines have excellent cooling and very modern chambers.
I roughed up the runners in both pairs of heads i ported..I feel atomization is not there as they are.

Carbed the LQ9 and no regrets. 109 LSA cam .100" piston to valve clearance.
Rocker upgrades and correct length pushrods and 313 rate beehive springs 130 seat pressure. 7000 rpm without a whimper.

222-232 @.050 and .557" lift.

Things I would try if it was mine. I would try the smaller chamber head and I like duration something in the 245 area and maybe even tighter LSA Just to see what would happen.

If I could get 11:0 or more compression maybe this grind or the old 288 roller grind.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-11-444-8/overview/make/chevrolet
That is the XR300HR BBC
Use those masters for the LS.
That would be one bad sounding ride with some 3" pipes..If you are into sound..and I bet it would run.

I just want to see what it takes to blow one up naturally aspirated.
 
#3 ·
Honestly if I built mine from scratch I'd bolt on LS3 heads / intake. They flow better than the LS1/2 heads and allow larger valves to work with the bigger bore.

I'm running stock 100k+ low compression LQ4 long block, lifters, pushrods, timing chain, 317 heads, LS6 intake, flex fuel 33lb/hr junkyard injectors, Elgin e1839p cam (220/224, .575" lift, 108 LSA, and PAC 1218 springs. I could always use more power, but power to $ ratio is high and brings many smiles per mile. I just cleaned up the exterior of the engine, did summit roller trunion upgrade, ported and shimmed relief spring in oil pump, installed new cam and springs, and regasketed it. Love it!

It's enough to get you in trouble / scare you whenever you want.
 
#5 ·
That can sounds about right for what I am going to need. My biggest thing is, I don’t know what heads to run. And I don’t know what intake to run.
 
#4 ·
I bought a lq4 which turned out to be a gen 3. We rebuilt mine and let the magic out as my friends tell me :D

I went with this:
Bought reconditioned gen 4 rods on ebay for $116. Used them with the stock rod bolts. Kept stock crank.

Summit forged flattop pistons ( made by wiseco) and their rings.

Summit 8702 stage 3 cam. Summit trunion upgrade, trick flow double springs, hardened pushrods. Stock 862 heads ( small chamber same as 706). Ls7 lifters. LS 9 head gaskets.

Melling hp oil pump, summit double roller chain, vic jr intake, 750 or 850 dbl pumper, msd 6014 controller. Nos cheater plate.

Had rotating assembly balanced, block zero decked and bored .030.

Including the cost of the engine I have about $4000 in it including all the swap stuff.

Compression is right at 11.5:1 and with the stock heads should be about 450-475 hp. Going to see how it runs as is, then may upgrade heads.

Engine has been done for all summer, will swap it over the winter.
 
  • Like
Reactions: blue_69_malibu
#6 ·
I bought a lq4 which turned out to be a gen 3. We rebuilt mine and let the magic out as my friends tell me <img src="http://www.chevelles.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Big Grin" class="inlineimg" />

I went with this:
Bought reconditioned gen 4 rods on ebay for $116. Used them with the stock rod bolts. Kept stock crank.

Summit forged flattop pistons ( made by wiseco) and their rings.

Summit 8702 stage 3 cam. Summit trunion upgrade, trick flow double springs, hardened pushrods. Stock 862 heads ( small chamber same as 706). Ls7 lifters. LS 9 head gaskets.

Melling hp oil pump, summit double roller chain, vic jr intake, 750 or 850 dbl pumper, msd 6014 controller. Nos cheater plate.

Had rotating assembly balanced, block zero decked and bored .030.

Including the cost of the engine I have about $4000 in it including all the swap stuff.

Compression is right at 11.5:1 and with the stock heads should be about 450-475 hp. Going to see how it runs as is, then may upgrade heads.

Engine has been done for all summer, will swap it over the winter.
Do you have the part number to those pistons? Also did you milk the heads at all? Install bigger valves?
 
#9 ·
The 317s flow the same if not better in some parts than the 799/243 heads, just have larger combustion chambers that drop compression.

As stated above the truck intakes are ugly but flow the best. Only reason I'm running an LS6 intake was hood clearance because my engine is set too high in the engine bay. (BMR engine mounts, don't buy)

Here's head flow #s: Surprising HP Numbers From Our Stock LS Cylinder Head Test

These were LS1/LQ based heads, no LS3.
 
#16 ·
I bought the adapter plates from lsx innovations. They allow the stock motor mounts to be used. My energy suspension poly mounts sit pretty low, maybe that would help with your hood clearance?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Hotwire
#12 ·
If one is going through the trouble of swapping LS3/L92 heads on which necessitates an intake, TB, rocker arms, gasket and bolts etc etc, why not just buy a used L92 engine? Is it THAT much more money?? You will also be getting a larger bored engine which should help the heads flow better.
 
#14 ·
Okay so I think my plan is
Camshaft: 224/228 @.050 .600/.600 lift 112LSA
Heads: 5.3 heads (706 or 862) worked over by Texas speed
Truck intake manifold not entirely sure on a specific one yet.
Hopefully around 11:1 compression
 
#15 ·
Go with the TBSS intake. The older style truck intakes look like a hot mess and need a cover over them or shaving to resemble anything you'd want to look at. The tbss intakes are squarish, came in 06+ trucks, tbss, etc. They're the king of flow compared to any other stock intake.
 
#17 ·
I have a 4” cowl hood so the hood clearance is not an issue for me. I will keep a look out for the TBSS intake.
 
#22 ·
Okay, so the block is in great shape and he’s got a 6.2 rotating assembly from a truck L92. I’m going to punch the Block to 4.065 and make it a 6.2. Going to probably go with LS3 heads and either an L92 or LS3 intake. Think about a cam in the mid 220s for duration. Probably .600 lift. Any suggestions?
 
#23 ·
Read this for the camshaft etc.
Three Cam Tests on an LS3 Engine - GM High-Tech Performance


Might give you some ideas.
Friend of mine bought a Nova with LQ9 that had LS3 heads and LS3 cam.
An automatic trans and 2500 stall converter. 3.73 gears with some kind of traction lock.
The Nova was a 1974 with a 1972 front sheet metal.

Stupid thing was quick and fast in the 1/4 mile. I could beat him in the 1/8 mile with 8.0 ET in the 1/8 but he ran solid 12.0 in the 1/4 many passes.
It was carbureted with a Holley and the AFR gauge kept reading 10.0 and going blank after that.
I told him maybe a rejet was in order but the guy he got it from raced it at 4000 feet elevation and went 11.7's and said something was wrong the car should be much quicker at our lower elevation.

After the bowls were removed my buddy found one of the front jets had fallen out.

Thing ran really good for no fuel jet in one of the holes.
Gotta respect those numbers.
The 2500 stall and 3.73 gears could not match my 4.56 and 4500 stall in the 1/8 But after that it was his game.
Win to the LS Loss to the 1969 350 with 601 casting 305 heads and 280H magnum cam.

Ever feel like you didn't bring enough to a fight.
 
#27 ·
I think there is much better choices for a cam. LS3 heads like different things than cathedral port heads.

Most good performing LS3 cams are going to have more split. Look at the super Chevy test linked above. Or look at Texas Speed or Brian Tooley in a stage two cam.

Sent from my SM-T720 using Tapatalk
 
#34 ·
I wrote a lot of stuff and it was deleted.
Short version.
LS cam is fat as are the lobes.. less deflection and less harmonic.. lighter valves ..less spring pressures required than old school stuff.
.600" lift is not that much for an LS for a daily driver. you do not need the heavy spring rates and it lives.

Look at the LS7 spring pressures. and other specs
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018...ormance-bore-stroke-cylinder-heads-cam-specs/

Typical old school 1.94 valve weighs 115 grams or so.
 
#36 ·
Changed my mind I’m doing this cheap. I’m going to go to pick a part get a set of 862s for $80 boot then on with a truck intake and have fun. Still need to decide on a bump stick. Maybe later I’ll get another set of 862 and have them ported and worked over.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Geo71 and Hotwire
#38 ·
#39 ·
Duration and valve timing events are key for the cam. Whatever heads you decide to use will help decide max lift. If heads only flow to .550 lift and fall flat or flow less. No reason to increase the lift past that. Smaller ports will increase velocity and that increases torque. If you decide on a aftermarket head look for one that has good low and midrange flow with the smallest ports. TSP has decent heads for the money but typically have larger ports.
 
#40 ·
Got the ball rolling for this project. Picked up a T56, and went and hung out with my buddy that had the motor. Super clean, rotating assembly is nice. He has all the small parts he’ll give to me. Gonna be fun. Still haven’t 100% decided on the top end but I’ll probably build the short block and go from there.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Geo71 and Hotwire
#43 ·
If your going ls3 heads intake talk with BTR and it looks like you already have. He will get you a good setup. Cathedral vs rectangle will like a different cam for sure.
 
#45 ·
I thought I’d update this thread. I got a summit 8707 cam, 226/238 @.50, 600/600 lift and 113 LSA. Got 799 heads that I am just going to to make reliable, .660 springs. I also got a seized complete 5.3 for $100 to take absolutely everything off of. LS7 clutch, cheap eBay exhaust manifolds because I’m tired of messing with headers and dirty dingo adjustable motor mounts.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Hotwire
#48 ·
You'll have plenty of fun with the combo, good luck man. :thumbsup:

The LS7 clutch is like butter, I really like mine, has not let me down yet. Using stock throwout bearing/slave and Tilton 75 series master. Have close to 14k miles on the combo, just flushed the clutch fluid, couldn't ask for a better setup.
 
#46 ·
Your 6.0 block is a 4.00 inch bore, you have to run a LS3 type head 5.3 and 4.8 have smaller bores. There are tons of heads out there yours probably came with the 799 castings like my 6.0 did. I know 243 and 823 are good ones but trying to find them can be difficult. I went with GM performance LS3 CNC ported heads they were $1800 fully assembled and flow just as good as AFR and Trickflow for a lot less $$$. My friend has a 6.0 Lq9 (which is higher compression than your's) with a LS3 top end and a comp cam and that car makes over 500hp. I would definitely upgrade the oil pump to a mellings since your going to be in there
 
#47 ·
Im running the 862s from a 5.3 on my 6.0. See how it goes in the spring...may step up to something better later. Still should be around 500hp.
 
#53 ·
The problem I found with the f-body master was the funky angle you had on the mounting flange AND having to cut and weld the push rod after spending a fair chunk of $$ on it so it would fit our application. They're a lot of people running that setup though, you can buy a plate straight off of ebay that sandwiches in between your booster and firewall. I bought the plate but didn't end up using it. I made my own mounting bracket for the tilton using the 05 tahoe hydroboost mounting plate, a 2" pipe nipple for the body of the tilton, then a small piece of 1/4" plate and 2 bolts for the mounting face.

I'm running the .75" bore Tilton, I purchased the 75-750u so I had all the options when it came to mounting the reservoir and am glad I did. Went with the remote setup and have it mounted between wiper motor and hood springs. If you go this route make sure everything is final before you slide the hose on, it is a beast when it comes to gripping the barbs, once it's on it will never come back off without side cutting.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/til-75-750u/

I'd started out using the ebay plate to create a flat plate for the tilton:



Realize that would have caused an extremely short pedal stroke, so cut the mounting flange off of it:



Would have to go back through my build thread to confirm downward angle, but here's the next to finished product minus paint. It's not sema worthy, but results speak for themselves, it's still working. Also got a small heim joint from Summit when I purchased the Tilton, threaded rod and coupling nut from the hardware store.



 
#57 ·
#60 ·
Still requires the angled bracket like I linked above though(read the fine print). But that's pretty much my setup in a nutshell. The billet neck they have is the pipe nipple I welded to the hydroboost bracket. Many ways to skin a cat..

Keep .75" bore as your target then mainly you just have to worry about the angle of the master and the length of throw you have at the clutch pedal.
 
#61 ·
I thought I’d update this thread. The 6.2 motor fell threw and I’m kinda glad that it did because I found a 6.0 on OfferUp for $500 complete long block. 148k miles. I tore it down and it was like brand new.

I honed the cylinders, added new bearings and rings, and a Holley 302-2 oil pan.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: Hotwire and Geo71
#62 ·
Nice, you should be happy with it. Been driving mine some, still needs added timing and some jetting. Runs pretty strong and it is louder than I thought. 1-7/8” headers mist be the culprit.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top