Installing Moroso long wheel studs. - Page 3 - Chevelle Tech
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post #31 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 17, 12:51 AM
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Geoff Swanson
 
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Re: Installing Moroso long wheel studs.

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Originally Posted by T_R View Post
It's not bad advice. Just an example, I work at Ford so I just looked up the factory procedure in the Ford workshop manual to install a wheel stud in my truck, a 15 F150. Ford's procedure is to use a stack of washers and the lug nut to pull the stud in. I'm not getting away with anything, I'm doing it correctly.
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post #32 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 17, 1:35 AM Thread Starter
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Ken
 
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Re: Installing Moroso long wheel studs.

I tried to tap the axle today.I realized that with out some kind of guide for the tap there was no guarantee that the tap would go in straight.I'm trying to figure out how to make a jig as most machine shops around here are booked for 3-4 weeks ahead.I'm trying to make a race at our local track for this weekend.I was considering using the 1/2" Moroso studs just this one time but I just don't want to take the chance.Has anyone made their own jig without a machine shop in the basement?
Thanks


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post #33 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 17, 9:19 PM
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Re: Installing Moroso long wheel studs.

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Originally Posted by 396375 View Post
I tried to tap the axle today.I realized that with out some kind of guide for the tap there was no guarantee that the tap would go in straight.
This can be done with a floor standing drill press and some way to hold the axle exactly in line. Chuck the tap to then get the thread into the flange true. BUT this will be a real pain to do. It's easier to send them off to a shop and let them do it.

I've done smaller items like this to assure the thread is straight and true.

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post #34 of 35 (permalink) Old Jul 1st, 17, 1:31 AM Thread Starter
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Ken
 
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Re: Installing Moroso long wheel studs.

Instead of Multi-Quoting I will just state what I think.

I decided to run the Moroso 1/2" studs for now until I find a proper way to install the 5/8" studs.These axles have 7/16" holes and 1/2" holes.I knocked out the 1/2" studs that were knurled.I had to use a small mallet as they didn't come out easily.I measured the knurl on the used 1/2" studs and the new Moroso studs.I don't remember the exact numbers but the Moroso knurl was definitely larger,keeping in mind that the knurl was used and worn down on the used ones.I think it was about .050 bigger.Again.I didn't want to drill out the holes without a guide.I measured some step drills I had and found one that would open up the holes and still leave enough material for the new stud.I felt that the step drill would go reasonably straight because of the shoulder for the next step guiding it in.I was actually leaving more metal then the original studs had,so I just thought I would try it and see how it worked out.I set my torque wrench to 120#s to do the final draw in and it never came close to clicking.The studs pulled in firm but not overly hard.The studs look straight.I haven't measured them centre to centre yet.When the stud bottomed out a small section of the knurl poked through past the flange face.Maybe 1/32" and all 5 studs had the same amount of knurl all around poking through.Not the most accurate test but it's something.

What tuscon said on the stretching of the bolt and damaging the stud,was a valid point.Again not a completely accurate test, but I think if the lug nut goes on by hand with no measurable resistance then I think it's undamaged.I wish I had a micrometer large enough to measure the length of the studs before and after.I would think especially with the studs being a fine thread that any kind of damage or stretching would show up.I sure wish someone would test all the different studs to compare their strengths and limits plus try the different methods of installing them.I think the Moroso studs are weaker then ARP or Strange.The ARPs are triple the price and manufactured in house.

As far as Kaljam said on the strength of these axles.I don't think they will be comparable to the high end Moser.Strange and Mark Williams type axles.I do think that because they are Chromemoly and the difference in todays metalergy compared to the 70s that they are definitely a stronger axle then stock.They are cheap for the price and guaranteed not to break for 10 years.We'll see.I haven't read any reports of any breaking so far.

I'm not going to use the brake until I get the 5/8" studs installed.


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post #35 of 35 (permalink) Old Jul 1st, 17, 8:33 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Installing Moroso long wheel studs.

Thanks John.

Good info.



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