Installing Moroso long wheel studs. - Page 2 - Chevelle Tech
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post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 17, 9:02 PM Thread Starter
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Ken
 
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Re: Installing Moroso long wheel studs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by langss View Post
Since I don't have a "Press" I bought a "Ball Joint Press", and I have used it for many things besides Ball Joints. U-joints being one. I wonder if you could slip that behind the Axel and pull the studs in that way. I hope this helps.
I was considering that.I was hoping to hear if someone had done that.Back in the day I remember doing this in my parents driveway.We would heat up the axle flange and freeze the studs and just draw them through with a lug nut.
Thanks


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post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 17, 9:15 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Installing Moroso long wheel studs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 71350SS View Post
This stud installer will help if you have to put lots of studs in axles.
https://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/lis...0-P113889.aspx
It has bearings to deal with the forcing instead of just using washers.
It would definitely help if I do go with the knurled stud.


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post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 17, 9:39 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Installing Moroso long wheel studs.

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Originally Posted by dyno jonn View Post
If you had a hole in the backing plate in just the right spot you should be able to thread the stud in from the back side, so yes, you should be able to do it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 70GS455 View Post
Can borrow a ball joint press from Advance Auto, its in their front end tool kit. It will press out and reinstall studs

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Thanks
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post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 17, 9:43 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Installing Moroso long wheel studs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve R View Post
I would upgrade to at least 1/2 wheel studs. A couple of weeks one of the guys that races every Wednesday night sheared off his second set of 7/16 aftermarket wheels studs. This is on a mid-11 second car with probably 1000+ passes running Mickey Thompson DOT drag radials. This is something you rarely see, I think I've only seen it happen four or five times in the 500+ races I've been to, but it does happen, so why take the chance.

Steve R
I did it once on the street with stock axles.It really banged up the quarter.
Thanks


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post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 17, 9:48 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Installing Moroso long wheel studs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by paul bell View Post
The Moroso 46180 is a knurled press-in 1/2 inch stud. You should be fine with them. I'd myself look for the needed size from ARP, they make their own studs and the quality is second to none. Hardened stud rolling is pretty specialized and I'd assume Moroso out sources them.

With stock style wheels, I like the 1" Allstar Racing lug nuts.

With a bunch of washers and plenty lube on the threads, it's easy to pull the studs onto the axle flange. When the head contacts the backside of the flange, it'll square itself.

Do you have the needed hole in the axle flanges for the knurl? Axle flanges are hardened and are a bitch to drill. I've done several using a tapered pin reamer.
The stock hole is 1/2".I already have 1/2" studs but they are not long enough to be legal.
Thanks


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post #21 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 17, 11:12 PM
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Re: Installing Moroso long wheel studs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 396375 View Post
I was considering that.I was hoping to hear if someone had done that.Back in the day I remember doing this in my parents driveway.We would heat up the axle flange and freeze the studs and just draw them through with a lug nut.
Thanks
I have used it for this. It just was not on a Rear Axle that was installed, so the clearance between the Axle and the Backing Plate was not an issue. Effort was minimal.....Its just like a big C-clamp.

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post #22 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 17, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Installing Moroso long wheel studs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stokerboats View Post
The Moroso 5/8" studs are too long. Look at the Moser stuff. The studs need too match your wheel stud depth or the smooth portion of the stud can be too long, even with the supplied spacers.
Make sure your wheels can accommodate the larger stud to begin with.
Great info Dan.My last race car came with aluminum spacers and a large shoulder nut.As far as I can remember the spacer was around 3/4" deep.They were on Convo Pro wheels and I'm using Billet Specialty Street Lites now which are 1" thick.Don't the spacers take up the non threaded section?
Thanks


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post #23 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 26th, 17, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Installing Moroso long wheel studs.

I bought a Strange kit that has 5/8" screw in studs,spacers and nuts.I decided to try a step drill on the axle flange to see how hard it would be to drill and tap.It breezed right through like regular steel.It looks like the shaft is hardened but not the flange.These axles are guarantied for 10 years not to break.

In case I missed anyone thanks to all who posted.



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post #24 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 26th, 17, 11:59 PM
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Re: Installing Moroso long wheel studs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 396375 View Post
I bought a Strange kit that has 5/8" screw in studs,spacers and nuts.I decided to try a step drill on the axle flange to see how hard it would be to drill and tap.It breezed right through like regular steel.It looks like the shaft is hardened but not the flange.These axles are guarantied for 10 years not to break.

In case I missed anyone thanks to all who posted.

I just came back to this thread. I meant Strange, not Moser anyway. You did well. By the way, Tom's Differentials in Idaho sells 35 spline axles (large Ford Ends) and they come threaded for both 1/2" and 5/8th studs. For future thought.

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post #25 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 17, 11:35 AM
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Re: Installing Moroso long wheel studs.

To install ANY stud correctly it should be pressed or driven in by the head and NEVER pulled into place.
Pulling a stud into place stretches the threads and weakens the stud. If it takes more than the max torque force for your bolt diameter to pull a stud into place it is TOO MUCH stress on the threads, head, etc.
Yes, they sell tools to pull them into place, but that does not make it correct!
Some people won't re-use a head bolt but will pull a stud into an axle. It makes no sense at all.
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post #26 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 17, 11:53 AM
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Re: Installing Moroso long wheel studs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tucson67ss View Post
To install ANY stud correctly it should be pressed or driven in by the head and NEVER pulled into place. Pulling a stud into place stretches the threads and weakens the stud.
I'll make an example of 1/2-20 studs. As they are grade 8, when installed for an application, they need to be torqued to 90 foot-pounds with lubricated threads. Torquing this thread size to 90 foot-pounds will not damage the threads or cause the bolt to stretch.

It takes far less than 90 foot pounds to pull a 1/2-20 knurled head wheel stud into a correctly sized pilot hole in an axle flange. If it takes more, the hole is too small.

The last time I did this was with a 1" open end wrench. If I needed anything approaching 90 foot-pounds to seat the knurl, I would have needed a long breaker bar. I would imagine I may have hit 40 foot-pounds to seat the studs, well below what the stud and threads might be damaged at.

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post #27 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 17, 1:06 PM
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Re: Installing Moroso long wheel studs.

I could be wrong but doesn't Ten Factory only make stock replacement (30 spline) axles for our Chevelles? If this is true and you are concerned about running a 1/2" stud and upgrading to a 5/8" stud because of the power you make and the abuse you will put it thru I would be considering a better 33 spline or 35 spline axle. Just my thoughts - I could be completely wrong.

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post #28 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 17, 1:55 PM
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Re: Installing Moroso long wheel studs.

I went 9's with 7/16 aftermarket studs at 3200 lbs. Big shot plate at 350 jetting. Never broke any. Car hooked hard enough to break the leaf spring perches off the axle tubes once on drag radials.

I've been pulling studs in with a nut and an air gun for 25 plus years, hundred of studs and never had a problem.

Some of you are really overthinking this.

Tom

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post #29 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 17, 3:08 PM
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Re: Installing Moroso long wheel studs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by T_R View Post
I went 9's with 7/16 aftermarket studs at 3200 lbs. Big shot plate at 350 jetting. Never broke any. Car hooked hard enough to break the leaf spring perches off the axle tubes once on drag radials.

I've been pulling studs in with a nut and an air gun for 25 plus years, hundred of studs and never had a problem.

Some of you are really overthinking this.

Not over thinking it. If you exceed the max torque for a bolt it will damage its structural integrity.
Just because you get away with something or "have been doing it for 25 years" does not make it correct and is bad advice to pass along IMO.
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post #30 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 17, 7:04 PM
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Re: Installing Moroso long wheel studs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tucson67ss View Post
Not over thinking it. If you exceed the max torque for a bolt it will damage its structural integrity.
Just because you get away with something or "have been doing it for 25 years" does not make it correct and is bad advice to pass along IMO.
It's not bad advice. Just an example, I work at Ford so I just looked up the factory procedure in the Ford workshop manual to install a wheel stud in my truck, a 15 F150. Ford's procedure is to use a stack of washers and the lug nut to pull the stud in. I'm not getting away with anything, I'm doing it correctly.

Tom

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