Crank and Rod choice - Page 3 - Chevelle Tech
Performance Our High Performance area

 50Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
post #31 of 43 (permalink) Old Jul 1st, 17, 2:11 PM
Tech Team
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: GPS
Posts: 171
Smile Re: Crank and Rod choice



My final BBC build will be 4.600 block, 3.76 crank with 10:1 comp. pistons.

Just a lil' ol "bored-out" 427, eh?



supersport6667 likes this.
Rex Auftinn is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #32 of 43 (permalink) Old Jul 1st, 17, 8:26 PM
Senior Tech Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: New York City
Posts: 1,983
Re: Crank and Rod choice

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rex Auftinn View Post
My final BBC build will be 4.600 block, 3.76 crank with 10:1 comp. pistons.
It seems a waste to have a block capable of big cubes and not take advantage of it.

LS1tech.com supermoderator.
How may I help you?
1971 Monte Carlo SS454-496ci 600hp
1999 Trans Am-500hp
2003 Iszu Ascender XL Limited V8
paul bell is offline  
post #33 of 43 (permalink) Old Jul 1st, 17, 10:32 PM
Tech Team
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: GPS
Posts: 171
Lightbulb Re: Crank and Rod choice

Quote:
Originally Posted by paul bell View Post
It seems a waste to have a block capable of big cubes and not take advantage of it.

"Different strokes for different folks", eh?

Beyond a certain point on the street, what does *more* hp and/or tq matter?

Could some say what you can't/won't be capable of using is wasteful? Like a 10-bed/bath home?


I'm not building it to compete in the TDRL... The "Dyno-Results" League.

Even a "mere" 500-cube BBC will do all that can be done on street tires.
supersport6667 likes this.
Rex Auftinn is offline  
 
post #34 of 43 (permalink) Old Jul 1st, 17, 11:00 PM
Lifetime Premium Member
Dan
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: orange county
Posts: 10,016
Re: Crank and Rod choice

^^^^^^ I'm certainly not opposed to 500 inches. The right pair of heads and the right induction and it could work out quite well.
Rex Auftinn likes this.

'66 SS Chevelle
565 BBC Mamofied 300cc Ovals
4.11 12 bolt
Best e.t. to date [email protected] @115.31
1.315 60'
Stokerboats is offline  
post #35 of 43 (permalink) Old Jul 2nd, 17, 7:00 AM
Senior Tech Team
 
Join Date: Dec 1998
Location: Lubbock, TX
Posts: 4,313
Re: Crank and Rod choice

^ and the shorter stroke engine will recover from the shift faster and have less issues with windage.

Mine is 3.766" x 4.630". Scat started making a 4340 crank with 3.766" stroke, full counterweighted including center throws. Mine is ready for balancing, just gotta decide on rods. Pistons will be custom, but that comes with the territory.

There's no use making a long stroke tow truck engine with unusable torque in a lot of rides...unless bragging rights is part of the equation. The Oklahoma Boys - even with drag race optimized cars - all have about twice the power that they can get to the ground, even on an often-raced concrete street with more rubber on the starting line than many tracks I've been to.
Rex Auftinn likes this.

Gary Adrian
Organized people are just too lazy to look for their stuff...
Busted Knuckles is offline  
post #36 of 43 (permalink) Old Jul 2nd, 17, 1:31 PM
Lifetime Premium Member
Dan
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: orange county
Posts: 10,016
Re: Crank and Rod choice

I like tow truck engines too.
Rex Auftinn likes this.

'66 SS Chevelle
565 BBC Mamofied 300cc Ovals
4.11 12 bolt
Best e.t. to date [email protected] @115.31
1.315 60'
Stokerboats is offline  
post #37 of 43 (permalink) Old Jul 3rd, 17, 7:31 AM
Lifetime Premium Member
jackie
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 4,693
Re: Crank and Rod choice

USA Race Engines, (The Wop Shop in Houston), built my 540 with a Scat 4340 crank and Calles Rods. He used Calles based on his own experience. He builds a lot of 9.90 index cars, and those guys put a lot of runs on engines with the expectation of long life.

The choice of heads and cam is extremely important when building a real street engine. That being, and engine that runs what's in the pump at the corner station, runs at the correct temperature, and makes that 600+ HP and Torque at a reasonable RPM.

Too much cam and too large of ports in relation to their true flow capabilities can be a big pain. That is why choosing a head with proven flow numbers is so important. Just because an ad says "380 CFM Ports" doesn't mean the ports will actually flow that. I have always liked AFR, but one of the great things about today's Hot Rodding is we do have so many choices.

For a real street engine, not scrimping on the little things can make a big difference. Pass on the cheap Chinese Rocker Arms. The same can be said for the Lifters. Going with the best here can insure hassle free street service.

A 650 HP big inch Big Block is, in today's street car world, is not a radical engine. If built correctly, it will make that or more torque down low in the RPM range. It will idle smooth at 800, and cruise at 2000 RPM at 70 mph on the freeway. And when you decide to put the hammer down, will get your attention.
70CHEVELLE396 likes this.

'67 Chevelle Malibu, Catalina Blue, 540 inch Rat, Air Flow Reasearch 290 CNC Heads heads, Custom Hyd Roller, .675 lift, 234, 244 at .050, Lemons Headers, Holley Multiport Fuel Injection, TCI 6X 6Speed Automatic, 12 bolt Posi Eaton TruTrac, 3:31 Richmond Gears, front and rear power disc brakes, Global West Suspension, etc.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
jackie schmidt is offline  
post #38 of 43 (permalink) Old Jul 31st, 17, 9:55 PM Thread Starter
Lifetime Premium Member
Dave
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Wethersfield Connecticut
Posts: 1,523
Garage
Re: Crank and Rod choice

Quote:
Originally Posted by jackie schmidt View Post
USA Race Engines, (The Wop Shop in Houston), built my 540 with a Scat 4340 crank and Calles Rods. He used Calles based on his own experience. He builds a lot of 9.90 index cars, and those guys put a lot of runs on engines with the expectation of long life.

The choice of heads and cam is extremely important when building a real street engine. That being, and engine that runs what's in the pump at the corner station, runs at the correct temperature, and makes that 600+ HP and Torque at a reasonable RPM.

Too much cam and too large of ports in relation to their true flow capabilities can be a big pain. That is why choosing a head with proven flow numbers is so important. Just because an ad says "380 CFM Ports" doesn't mean the ports will actually flow that. I have always liked AFR, but one of the great things about today's Hot Rodding is we do have so many choices.

For a real street engine, not scrimping on the little things can make a big difference. Pass on the cheap Chinese Rocker Arms. The same can be said for the Lifters. Going with the best here can insure hassle free street service.

A 650 HP big inch Big Block is, in today's street car world, is not a radical engine. If built correctly, it will make that or more torque down low in the RPM range. It will idle smooth at 800, and cruise at 2000 RPM at 70 mph on the freeway. And when you decide to put the hammer down, will get your attention.
You mention the Callies rods. Do you know if they were the Compstar line or the twice as expensive Ultra line? I'm just curious, and was thinking more about lately. If I did want to spend more money than I probably need on a set of rods or a crankshaft, what would be the better choice to throw the money at, the crank or rods?

70 Chevelle, Vortecpro 496, TH400, Moser 12 bolt, custom Tom's Eaton posi, 3.73, UMI/Viking front suspension, PMT rear. Sniper efi, RobbMc PowerSurge.
70CHEVELLE396 is offline  
post #39 of 43 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 17, 3:15 AM
Lifetime Premium Member
Mike
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Kapaa Kauai Hawaii
Posts: 9,371
Re: Crank and Rod choice

I went with the Dragon Slayer, and Ultras from Mike on mine.....

YOU KNOW YOU HAVE THE POWER..... AND IF YOU USE THAT POWER BAD THINGS ARE GOING TO HAPPEN!!
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Mike Lewis street 572

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Cale Aronson
Black Magic clutches

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Cam by UDHarold
Menscer Motorsports

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

TRZ

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

CEAutoelectric

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
aukai is offline  
post #40 of 43 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 17, 5:46 AM
Senior Tech Team
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: NORTH EAST
Posts: 3,345
Re: Crank and Rod choice

Quote:
Originally Posted by aukai View Post
I went with the Dragon Slayer, and Ultras from Mike on mine.....
The Dragon Slayer cranks have been discontinued for quite some time.

Website is up and running

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Machine shop tour

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Monthly Specials

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
CNC BLOCKS N/E is offline  
post #41 of 43 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 17, 5:51 AM
Senior Tech Team
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: NORTH EAST
Posts: 3,345
Re: Crank and Rod choice

Quote:
Originally Posted by 70CHEVELLE396 View Post
You mention the Callies rods. Do you know if they were the Compstar line or the twice as expensive Ultra line? I'm just curious, and was thinking more about lately. If I did want to spend more money than I probably need on a set of rods or a crankshaft, what would be the better choice to throw the money at, the crank or rods?

I have used a lot of the Callies Compstar cranks and rods in BBC's for street and strip engines and some marine builds with zero problems.

Jack Sparks who worked for Carillo for years designing rods is the guy who has designed the rods for Callies.
70CHEVELLE396 likes this.

Website is up and running

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Machine shop tour

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Monthly Specials

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
CNC BLOCKS N/E is offline  
post #42 of 43 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 17, 5:03 PM Thread Starter
Lifetime Premium Member
Dave
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Wethersfield Connecticut
Posts: 1,523
Garage
Re: Crank and Rod choice

Quote:
Originally Posted by CNC BLOCKS N/E View Post
I have used a lot of the Callies Compstar cranks and rods in BBC's for street and strip engines and some marine builds with zero problems.

Jack Sparks who worked for Carillo for years designing rods is the guy who has designed the rods for Callies.
Thanks. I PM'd you awhile back, but never got a response.

70 Chevelle, Vortecpro 496, TH400, Moser 12 bolt, custom Tom's Eaton posi, 3.73, UMI/Viking front suspension, PMT rear. Sniper efi, RobbMc PowerSurge.
70CHEVELLE396 is offline  
post #43 of 43 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 17, 9:47 PM
Senior Tech Team
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: NORTH EAST
Posts: 3,345
Re: Crank and Rod choice

Quote:
Originally Posted by 70CHEVELLE396 View Post
Thanks. I PM'd you awhile back, but never got a response.

I just looked at your PM back on 12/12/2016 I guess I missed that for some reason. I sent you back a PM if interested let me know.

Carl
70CHEVELLE396 likes this.

Website is up and running

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Machine shop tour

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Monthly Specials

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
CNC BLOCKS N/E is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Chevelle Tech forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address. Note, you will be sent a confirmation request to this address.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Old Thread Warning
This Thread is more than 804 days old. It is very likely that it does not need any further discussion and thus bumping it serves no purpose.
If you still feel it is necessary to make a new reply, you can still do so though.

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome