Re: Crank and Rod choice
USA Race Engines, (The Wop Shop in Houston), built my 540 with a Scat 4340 crank and Calles Rods. He used Calles based on his own experience. He builds a lot of 9.90 index cars, and those guys put a lot of runs on engines with the expectation of long life.
The choice of heads and cam is extremely important when building a real street engine. That being, and engine that runs what's in the pump at the corner station, runs at the correct temperature, and makes that 600+ HP and Torque at a reasonable RPM.
Too much cam and too large of ports in relation to their true flow capabilities can be a big pain. That is why choosing a head with proven flow numbers is so important. Just because an ad says "380 CFM Ports" doesn't mean the ports will actually flow that. I have always liked AFR, but one of the great things about today's Hot Rodding is we do have so many choices.
For a real street engine, not scrimping on the little things can make a big difference. Pass on the cheap Chinese Rocker Arms. The same can be said for the Lifters. Going with the best here can insure hassle free street service.
A 650 HP big inch Big Block is, in today's street car world, is not a radical engine. If built correctly, it will make that or more torque down low in the RPM range. It will idle smooth at 800, and cruise at 2000 RPM at 70 mph on the freeway. And when you decide to put the hammer down, will get your attention.
'67 Chevelle Malibu, Catalina Blue, 540 inch Rat, Air Flow Reasearch 290 CNC Heads heads, Custom Hyd Roller, .675 lift, 234, 244 at .050, Lemons Headers, Holley Multiport Fuel Injection, TCI 6X 6Speed Automatic, 12 bolt Posi Eaton TruTrac, 3:31 Richmond Gears, front and rear power disc brakes, Global West Suspension, etc.