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post #16 of 37 (permalink) Old Jun 30th, 20, 4:20 PM
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Rick
 
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Re: Radial Testing Tires Moving and

Break the beads, clean the wheel and tire with acetone. Coat the angle and flat part of the bead of the wheel with Hytack, let it flash. Air the tire back up. I found coating the tire bead does very little if anything, the hytack just doesn't seem to adhere to the rubber that good.


Coat both parts of the bead of the wheel:

\__

^^^^ hopefully that makes sense.



They will probably still move some, but it will take 10 passes to go an inch vs 2 inches in a few passes.

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post #17 of 37 (permalink) Old Jun 30th, 20, 7:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bracketchev1221 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBoggs View Post
Drivers side about 2" a pass, passenger about 1.5". I let them seat for a couple months.
No not like that. Let them work into the rim. Radials tend to spin and then bite into the bead and stay. Just sitting is not going to make them seat. I think I’️d give it one more shot before breaking them down. As far as fuel I find it odd that yours is breaking up before half track. What is the fuel pressure gauge saying? What rpm do you cross the stripe in the 1/8?
I could do that and run single's just in case. Far as fuel pressure, I'm not sure. I do have logs of the runs now. The fuel pressure channel seems noisy. Also the AFR/RPM log doesn't make me think it's definitely fueling. I could post a couple pics of the logs? Around 6800 at the stripe. I shifted as high as 7500 with no ignition or valve train issues that I could feel. What are your thoughts on it breaking up? It did it every pass.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69SS454 View Post
What size tire and rim width? Hard to tell in the video but almost looks like the tread is wider than the rim. Is your fuel pressure consistent thru the run?
28x10.5 on a 15x10. I haven't determined if the FP is solid throughout the run.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monk View Post
This pic is how much my radials rotated last year. My mark is at 8:30 and was lined up with the valve stem. A little over 1/4 revolution and I also did the hi-tack thing. Haven't heard of anyone blowing one of these tires off the seat yet, so not going to worry about it.
Did it seem to move every hit or work in? Any idea if how much per pass? Thanks for the pic.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calculated Risk View Post
Break the beads, clean the wheel and tire with acetone. Coat the angle and flat part of the bead of the wheel with Hytack, let it flash. Air the tire back up. I found coating the tire bead does very little if anything, the hytack just doesn't seem to adhere to the rubber that good.


Coat both parts of the bead of the wheel:

\__

^^^^ hopefully that makes sense.



They will probably still move some, but it will take 10 passes to go an inch vs 2 inches in a few passes.
I cleaned the bead with shop towels and brake clean, hi-tack'd the bead and did try to get both surfaces on the tire. If I break them down I'll clean with acetone and re tack better. Making sure I get the tire surfaces. Thanks.

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post #18 of 37 (permalink) Old Jun 30th, 20, 7:58 PM
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Kerry
 
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Re: Radial Testing Tires Moving and

Put the feed on the front of the log, and the regulator on the rear of the log (firewall end) Use a full flow fitting on the log to feed hose, not a cast 90.

Put silver reflective DEI shield on the lines from the log, down behind the engine until they go under the floor.

What vent does the tank have?

Do you see the fuel pressure start to fall towards the top of each gear?
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post #19 of 37 (permalink) Old Jun 30th, 20, 8:55 PM
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Re: Radial Testing Tires Moving and

What exactly is Hytack or hi-tack? Is that gasket adhesive or the same thing as black tire bead sealer? Maybe there is a better product.

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post #20 of 37 (permalink) Old Jun 30th, 20, 8:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pockets View Post
Put the feed on the front of the log, and the regulator on the rear of the log (firewall end) Use a full flow fitting on the log to feed hose, not a cast 90.

Put silver reflective DEI shield on the lines from the log, down behind the engine until they go under the floor.

What vent does the tank have?

Do you see the fuel pressure start to fall towards the top of each gear?
The tank has a -8 vent. It might not be enough. I could look at giving it some more. Rolling the input and output will take some hardware/doing. I'll have to look at that.

Will look at the data logs some more. I recorded all 3. The FP on all was erratic. Don't trust any of it. I'll see about a getting a couple screen captures.

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post #21 of 37 (permalink) Old Jun 30th, 20, 9:33 PM
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Kerry
 
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Re: Radial Testing Tires Moving and

Quote:
Originally Posted by JBoggs View Post
The tank has a -8 vent. It might not be enough. I could look at giving it some more. Rolling the input and output will take some hardware/doing. I'll have to look at that.

Will look at the data logs some more. I recorded all 3. The FP on all was erratic. Don't trust any of it. I'll see about a getting a couple screen captures.
That vent size is plenty.

Check your wiring for the pump, clean connections. Pump powered through a relay obviously with 12 gauge wire for power into and out of the relay? Or 8 if taking power from the alternator?
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post #22 of 37 (permalink) Old Jun 30th, 20, 9:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69SS454 View Post
What exactly is Hytack or hi-tack? Is that gasket adhesive or the same thing as black tire bead sealer? Maybe there is a better product.
I used Prematex High Tack. I believe it's gasket adhesive.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pockets View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBoggs View Post
The tank has a -8 vent. It might not be enough. I could look at giving it some more. Rolling the input and output will take some hardware/doing. I'll have to look at that.

Will look at the data logs some more. I recorded all 3. The FP on all was erratic. Don't trust any of it. I'll see about a getting a couple screen captures.
That vent size is plenty.

Check your wiring for the pump, clean connections. Pump powered through a relay obviously with 12 gauge wire for power into and out of the relay? Or 8 if taking power from the alternator?
Relay is in the truck next to the battery/feed. #12 directly off the kill switch. Alternator is #6 also tired to the battery side of kill switch. All new since I've owned the car.

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post #23 of 37 (permalink) Old Jun 30th, 20, 10:27 PM
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Re: Radial Testing Tires Moving and

Quote:
Originally Posted by JBoggs View Post
Did it seem to move every hit or work in? Any idea if how much per pass? Thanks for the pic.

Mine moved that amount over the coarse of about 15 runs. Haven't had it out yet this year due to still working on a bunch of changes. I think Brian's (B433) are still moving a little bit each time and he's on his 3rd year with those tires. The only part the bothers me about them moving is now the wheel balance is off.


I've seen the Hoosier radials and understand they are between a slick and a radial, with their softer sidewall. They'll recover better if they spin, but I'm curious how long the sidewall will hold up to a hard hitting heavy car. Hopefully you can chime in on this after a season.



Concerning your engine breaking up; did you change something fuel or electronics related from last year?

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post #24 of 37 (permalink) Old Jul 1st, 20, 7:50 AM
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Re: Radial Testing Tires Moving and

Quote:
Originally Posted by 69SS454 View Post
What exactly is Hytack or hi-tack? Is that gasket adhesive or the same thing as black tire bead sealer? Maybe there is a better product.
Yes it's the gasket sealer. It really seems to be the standard go to for this application. I also tried Spray gorilla glue and it was no better and was a bit messy to deal with. Right now I am using PJ1 track bite, it's about the same result as hytack. My next experiment is going to be with one of the street racing preps like pimp juice or skinny's sauce applied to the rubber to see if it can chemically effect the bead and adhere better.




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post #25 of 37 (permalink) Old Jul 1st, 20, 8:17 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Radial Testing Tires Moving and

Quote:
Originally Posted by Monk View Post
Mine moved that amount over the coarse of about 15 runs. Haven't had it out yet this year due to still working on a bunch of changes. I think Brian's (B433) are still moving a little bit each time and he's on his 3rd year with those tires. The only part the bothers me about them moving is now the wheel balance is off.


I've seen the Hoosier radials and understand they are between a slick and a radial, with their softer sidewall. They'll recover better if they spin, but I'm curious how long the sidewall will hold up to a hard hitting heavy car. Hopefully you can chime in on this after a season.



Concerning your engine breaking up; did you change something fuel or electronics related from last year?

I'll let you know how long the DBR's last, with the sidewall and the wear indicators, I'm thinking it won't be a long life tire.



Far as fuel system, no, it's exactly the same as the previous years. Ignition and some wiring do have some updates. I went to a Moroso Crank Trigger. Believe it's gaped at .060 (I'll re-verify). I did re-phase the rotor too. Checked timing 3 or so different occasions. Also the plugs have a lot of runs on them. I could drop a new set in? Do you think it would be more likely ignition?

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post #26 of 37 (permalink) Old Jul 1st, 20, 8:54 AM
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Re: Radial Testing Tires Moving and

Quote:
Originally Posted by Calculated Risk View Post
Yes it's the gasket sealer. It really seems to be the standard go to for this application. I also tried Spray gorilla glue and it was no better and was a bit messy to deal with. Right now I am using PJ1 track bite, it's about the same result as hytack. My next experiment is going to be with one of the street racing preps like pimp juice or skinny's sauce applied to the rubber to see if it can chemically effect the bead and adhere better.
Has anyone tried the thick black bead sealer?

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post #27 of 37 (permalink) Old Jul 1st, 20, 9:32 AM
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Re: Radial Testing Tires Moving and

Quote:
Originally Posted by 69SS454 View Post
Has anyone tried the thick black bead sealer?
I used it at least 10 years ago and it didn't work well for me, I haven't revisited in recent history because I don't feel that it adheres to the tire. It does adhere to wheel, but then it seems the tire just rotates on the bead sealer. Once it breaks loose, it just keeps moving.

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post #28 of 37 (permalink) Old Jul 1st, 20, 9:54 AM
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Re: Radial Testing Tires Moving and

Nice runs Jarad,

I went to radials a couple of yrs ago and used hi-tack also but mine move every pass some, like Dale i quit worrying about it as I have over a hundred passes like this.


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post #29 of 37 (permalink) Old Jul 1st, 20, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B433 View Post
Nice runs Jarad,

I went to radials a couple of yrs ago and used hi-tack also but mine move every pass some, like Dale i quit worrying about it as I have over a hundred passes like this.


Brian
Good to know, thanks.

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post #30 of 37 (permalink) Old Jul 1st, 20, 3:08 PM
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Kerry
 
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Re: Radial Testing Tires Moving and

Quote:
Originally Posted by JBoggs View Post
I'll let you know how long the DBR's last, with the sidewall and the wear indicators, I'm thinking it won't be a long life tire.



Far as fuel system, no, it's exactly the same as the previous years. Ignition and some wiring do have some updates. I went to a Moroso Crank Trigger. Believe it's gaped at .060 (I'll re-verify). I did re-phase the rotor too. Checked timing 3 or so different occasions. Also the plugs have a lot of runs on them. I could drop a new set in? Do you think it would be more likely ignition?
Could be as simple as plugs. Gap at .040"-.045"?
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