Engine Setback - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 20, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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Greg
 
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Engine Setback

I read somewhere on this board Vortecpro had moved his engine back in his '68- got me to thinking about doing that to my junk. I'd love to get more weight bias on the rear, even though it works fine like it is. Nowhere to race for a while, and yep, I'm getting bored!

Anybody moved a big block back in a '68-'69? I know there's some room to move it because I can easily get the top 4 bellhousing bolts out from the topside. I'm sure it would require a shorter driveshaft and moving the trans mount, but neither one of those things is a big deal at all. Headers...I have no idea what these dang hooker 2455's would hit, they may not hit anything. Right now the only thing the headers were close to was the steering shaft, I had to "clearance" one tube maybe 1/8" to get it off the steering shaft.

Current engine mounts are solid moroso sitting on the factory 307 mounts. I'm 96.4% sure it's not in the 'correct' location for a big block in a 68-69 chevelle, but everything clears and it works fine. It's been that way for around 11 years and a couple thousand dragstrip passes. I suspect it's a little lower and possibly forward a bit, because I can fit intakes and breathers with a flat hood that a lot of 68-69 owners with big block cars can't.

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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 20, 12:03 PM
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Re: Engine Setback

How much rom do you have behind the distributor? Depending on what you have Your linkage for the trans, coolant lines, fan shroud,may need to be adjusted.

Tighten it till it strips and back it off a quarter turn.
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 20, 12:12 PM
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Re: Engine Setback

We moved the engine back as far as it would go and lowered it some as well , bbc 467 tunnel ram in my 69 el camino with front plate and mid plate- it was not easy task , a lot of mods ; we had to hammer and notch the firewall for the distributor to install and also to adjust. Also the sfi flexplate shield was a nightmare ; we had to make a cut in the trans tunnel to reach the bolts etc etc
We got almost a 50/50 weight though



Cut the trans tunnel link below in my build thread

https://www.chevelles.com/forums/13-...-build-19.html


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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 20, 1:18 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Engine Setback

Quote:
Originally Posted by oliver69 View Post
We moved the engine back as far as it would go and lowered it some as well , bbc 467 tunnel ram in my 69 el camino with front plate and mid plate- it was not easy task , a lot of mods ; we had to hammer and notch the firewall for the distributor to install and also to adjust. Also the sfi flexplate shield was a nightmare ; we had to make a cut in the trans tunnel to reach the bolts etc etc
We got almost a 50/50 weight though



Cut the trans tunnel link below in my build thread

https://www.chevelles.com/forums/13-...-build-19.html


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Oliver- MUCH RESPECT man!! You did some pretty darn nice work- especially on the rack and pinion..

Looks like you moved it back maybe 4-4.5"? What headers are you using? I'd be thrilled if I could get 50/50 out of mine!
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 20, 1:42 PM
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Gary
 
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Re: Engine Setback

Quote:
Originally Posted by Iforgot View Post
I read somewhere on this board Vortecpro had moved his engine back in his '68- got me to thinking about doing that to my junk. I'd love to get more weight bias on the rear, even though it works fine like it is. Nowhere to race for a while, and yep, I'm getting bored!

Anybody moved a big block back in a '68-'69? I know there's some room to move it because I can easily get the top 4 bellhousing bolts out from the topside. I'm sure it would require a shorter driveshaft and moving the trans mount, but neither one of those things is a big deal at all. Headers...I have no idea what these dang hooker 2455's would hit, they may not hit anything. Right now the only thing the headers were close to was the steering shaft, I had to "clearance" one tube maybe 1/8" to get it off the steering shaft.

Current engine mounts are solid moroso sitting on the factory 307 mounts. I'm 96.4% sure it's not in the 'correct' location for a big block in a 68-69 chevelle, but everything clears and it works fine. It's been that way for around 11 years and a couple thousand dragstrip passes. I suspect it's a little lower and possibly forward a bit, because I can fit intakes and breathers with a flat hood that a lot of 68-69 owners with big block cars can't.
You can accomplish the same thing and even more so by moving the weight out of the front of the car. Things like fabricating a tubular core support. Small aluminum radiator etc. Any weight removed from the front will help along with good front springs and shocks. Remember like weight and balance in an aircraft the same weight makes a bigger difference the farther it is from the center of gravity i.e. 100 lbs at 1 foot is equal to 10 lbs at 10 feet. Ofcourse moving the engine back helps too it's just more involved and expensive. As a general rule the more power the car has the more weight it will like on the front
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 20, 1:50 PM
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Never tried on a Chevelle but my friends 69 Camaro bb. Nhra SS car we moved it back Back in day
by using different combinations of stands and mounts had to look factory 🙂

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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 20, 2:15 PM
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Re: Engine Setback

Hey hey, engine setback is clearly how one properly makes a stand!

PS. Mark speaks VERY HIGHLY of Oliver and his efforts! and now I can understand more why.
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 20, 2:21 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Engine Setback

Quote:
Originally Posted by gnicholson View Post
You can accomplish the same thing and even more so by moving the weight out of the front of the car. Things like fabricating a tubular core support. Small aluminum radiator etc. Any weight removed from the front will help along with good front springs and shocks. Remember like weight and balance in an aircraft the same weight makes a bigger difference the farther it is from the center of gravity i.e. 100 lbs at 1 foot is equal to 10 lbs at 10 feet. Ofcourse moving the engine back helps too it's just more involved and expensive. As a general rule the more power the car has the more weight it will like on the front
You hit on two things that I definitely should tackle first- radiator and support! The radiator, although it is aluminum, is huge...don't remember the measurements but it's wider and slightly taller than a standard A body radiator. And, I've NEVER had any temperature problems whatsoever- but it is the absolute heaviest aluminum radiator I've ever saw! Since it's no longer street driven, I can get away with a much, much, much smaller radiator, not to mention saving water weight also.
Radiator support is still mostly stock except where I had to modify it to get the radiator in. Years ago I had a '68 chevelle race car, and I built a radiator support for it out of aluminum tube and angle. It did the job just fine and was a good bit lighter than the factory radiator support. Gotta get one built for this car.
Already has good springs/shocks, and like I said the thing works great. Last time out, over 8 passes, it went 1.491, 1.483, 1.488, 1.494,1.498, 1.491, 1.496, 1.485. First pass was at 11:44AM, last pass when I lost at 3 cars was at 10:26PM. Over almost 12 hours and from daytime to dark, I don't think that's too bad. Part of me is never satisfied though, and with nowhere to race right now, all I can do is think of crap to do to it to try and make it better!

Another reason I had given setting the engine back was it's probably time for some motor plates, or it will be before too much longer. Think I could shift it back maybe 1 1/2-2" without too much trouble, but still I know it'll end up being a pain in the butt. Wish there was a good way to lighten up the front frame short of cutting it all to pieces!

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New, mildy overcammed 496 "The Dud"
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 20, 3:34 PM
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Re: Engine Setback

You can move it back a little. Now is the time to get the drive line angle right and the crank height if you use motor plates. Something I did was to fabricate a travel limiter for both sides that use the original engine mount locations. I have pics but dont know how to post. To big of a pain in the ass for me.
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 20, 5:17 PM
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Re: Engine Setback

Rule of thumb is to move the engine back and down as much as possible. From what I have read moving the engine back 2 inches makes very little difference in weight distribution. Some say moving the battery to the trunk is like moving the engine 8-10 inches. In performance every bit helps, but effort vs reward might be part of YOUR equation. Glass front bumper/brackets, relocated battery, light weight radiator would likely make the biggest differences. Glass hood and fenders good too but pricey considering they would need to be painted.


When moving the engine back fitment of some things like headers/drive shaft issue.


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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 20, 5:46 PM
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Re: Engine Setback

The amount of work to set an engine back 2-3 inches would be daunting as Oliver knows.

Starting with with this plan from day 1 on a race car makes sense. Redoing your setup after it was at least partially built... oh brother.

Outside of the engine bay mods, the driveshaft needs shortening, the shifter location may change (manual trans), tunnel mods to clearance your U-joints, existing exhaust would have to be modified, and the list goes on.
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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 20, 6:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDN SS View Post
Never tried on a Chevelle but my friends 69 Camaro bb. Nhra SS car we moved it back Back in day
by using different combinations of stands and mounts had to look factory 🙂
Bill Jenkins moved BBC back in 67
NHRA legal championship Camaro by using SBC mounts, I’ve read.

Never got caught !
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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 20, 8:37 PM
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Re: Engine Setback

No header clearancing for me.
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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 20, 9:57 PM
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Re: Engine Setback

Ideally you would want the No.1 spark plug to be just behind the middle of the centerline of the front wheel for best results, but you may have to massage the firewall to get there.


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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old Apr 9th, 20, 9:24 AM
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Re: Engine Setback

Wouldnt lowering the engine screw the driveline angles over?

Moved my 327 back quite a bit in a 67 Camaro I had in the 80s what adifference it made
Too young and dumb to know you couldnt stack up fan spacers without consequence....lol

If I could weld id love to make my own core, fender supports etc. always wanted to move the tank to the storage box in the bed and mount the radiator in the tanks place...probably never happen though

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