New cam break in - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 20, 1:05 PM Thread Starter
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Tyler
 
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New cam break in

I see Lunati and Comp want you to remove the inner valve springs when breaking in a flat tappet. How important is that and do all of you do that?
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 20, 1:59 PM
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Mike
 
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Re: New cam break in

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Originally Posted by Chebell View Post
I see Lunati and Comp want you to remove the inner valve springs when breaking in a flat tappet. How important is that and do all of you do that?
Depends primarily on your open pressures
If I had to give a number it would be anything over 300 open I would recommend doing it if a dual & if a single use a set of softer springs
I would prefer something in the 250 open range or even a bit less if you decide to to do this
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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 20, 2:41 PM
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Rick
 
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Re: New cam break in

^^^^^^ I would definitely do this with today's products. In the time before china and recycled metal, hardly anyone did this and failure was low. Some builders didn't even follow the 2000 rpm for 20 minute rule. Do you think auto factories did this. We did run them all on propane for a short time checking pressures and listening for noise.
With today's flat tappet engines, proper break in is super critical.


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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 20, 5:06 PM
 
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Re: New cam break in

Prayer is the your best bet with Flat tappets.

Chris Straub
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Why is it we never have time or money to do it the right way in the beginning but we always have time and money to do it over again?
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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 20, 5:50 PM Thread Starter
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Tyler
 
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I’m on a wing and a prayer as it is! 😄😄
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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old Apr 2nd, 20, 8:11 AM
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Jeff
 
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Re: New cam break in

Make sure you use Johnson lifters.

Years ago we use to just put things back together fill them up with oil and drive the wheels off them. Many of them lasted for thousands of miles..
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old Apr 2nd, 20, 8:21 AM
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Re: New cam break in

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Originally Posted by hydro462 View Post
Make sure you use Johnson lifters.

Years ago we use to just put things back together fill them up with oil and drive the wheels off them. Many of them lasted for thousands of miles..
That is when we used our own raw materials, not chinese and recycled.
My brand new Air Gap has rust all over it. I have many old alum. intakes and they look better.


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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old Apr 2nd, 20, 8:34 AM
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Re: New cam break in

Ya its a shame. Like you I live in a industrial city and took for granted all the access I had to machine shops and steel/aluminum.. Alcoa is five miles from my home.. The issue falls into the hands of the people who import for our stores, they buy the crap and not the good stuff that Europe gets..
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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old Apr 2nd, 20, 8:46 AM
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Re: New cam break in

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Im on a wing and a prayer as it is! 😄😄
I broke in my solid flat tappet cam twice, 135/370 springs. Good to 8000 rpm. Never wore bad, Still racing, Said the ROSARY each time and it NEVER failed me!

I also followed Harold Brookshire's instructions to the T, although I hate swapping valve springs out in the car, have to at those pressure. Then, during a clutch repair with engine out on stand, the pin fell out of the engine stand, and she rolled over with all the rockers off and pushrods pulled. Good news, no ridges in the lifter bores. Bad news, all 16 hit the deck. Off to Delta Cams they went for a regrind. Pulled the inners in the mean, then put all 370 psi on her and broke her back in. then turned 8000. Rosary works!

PS old Crane good metal lifters wire EDM'd by Crower to bleed oil may have helped.
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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old Apr 2nd, 20, 1:21 PM
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Re: New cam break in

15 yrs ago Richard at WCCH steered me away from a large SFT saying 120-130lbs plus puts too much shearing with the oil deal said go roller at that point. Smaller FT with gentler ramps...maybe. Who knows.
One thing I do like is no needle bearings to ever risk going bad. Id be open to a ft if it was a mild driver type engine. If one starts gonig youll know just swap it out and keep going.

If the price on retro rollers wasnt so stinkin high guys would sell a lot more rollers.

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post #11 of 33 (permalink) Old Apr 2nd, 20, 1:48 PM
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Ron you're not kidding, $459 for my retro roller lifters was a real kick in the wallet
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post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old Apr 2nd, 20, 2:08 PM
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Re: New cam break in

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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette View Post
15 yrs ago Richard at WCCH steered me away from a large SFT saying 120-130lbs plus puts too much shearing with the oil deal said go roller at that point. .
Pffft... I've been running Harold's short track SFT cam for that long and its STILL in service. After two break -ins! Now, I'm not much on 10-30w in that app, although I did try it. Mostly 15-40 Penn Grade w/1500ppm min zinc. PS, 135 psi on the seat to be exactly precise. Any less and she's bounce, so I dont know what that expert was smoking. Yes, oil becomes uber -critical.


Have you all priced rebuildable Crower SS rockers? Darn shade more than those 'cheap' roller lifters. But, like Ron said NEEDLE BEARINGS ! ... words that make us all PUCKER.......

Gene
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post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old Apr 2nd, 20, 4:10 PM
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Re: New cam break in

459..was that for maybe howards? Ones I priced a year ago were over 700, crower std solids ran me around 1k that is nuts.

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post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old Apr 2nd, 20, 4:59 PM
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My $459 lifters were Howards max effort (Gatorman) I was close to buying Johnson lifters but didnt for some reason? maybe price?


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post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old Apr 2nd, 20, 5:03 PM
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In the 70's early 80's I use to put used cams & lifters out of JY engines and never had a problem so like someone else said it wasnt made from recycled crap metal (I threw the word crap in not other person)


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