I am building a 454 bored 40 over, will have approx. 9.7 comp ratio with 049 heads with 2.19/1.88 valves that have been unshrouded no porting, air gap intake manifold. This is what I am trying to achieve, not necessarily looking to make max torque or max HP. Car is a 69 Chevelle with a 700R4, 3.73 rear gear. This is just a cruiser not going to race.
1. torque converter wanting to stay under 2500 stall (or that's what I am thinking)
2. have good power along with good street manners
3. wanting to go EFI, (something like the Holley Sniper)
Think either will work and fill your needs, dont think there will be any noticeable difference in a streetcar but with fuel injection wider lsa is considered to be better.
IMO the Lunati is a touch big for what you want. Stay under 230 degrees @.050" intake duration. Look at the Isky 228/238 Hyd roller if you don't want the Clay Smith cam.
The Clay Smith cam is designed for the poor ex ports of the oem heads so would be my choice #2, and I'd guess Mr Straub or others can assure you it'd work an EFI system properly.
BINGO!!! I fully agree. My brother has a mild 400HP 67 Chevelle, and when Harold Brookshire was still alive, he took my advice and called Harold up to get a custom cam from him, and to this day he says his car runs better than it ever did with that cam. Harold designed all of the Lunati "Voodoo": camshafts. You sholud call Lunati and ask to talk to their Tech guy Steve Slavik and tell him you want a camshaft recommendation. Steve is a good guy. He will help you out.
I’m running a gm block at .30 over and a +.25inch stroke. Half a point more compression than you. Stock gm heads. just basically smoothed them over very lightly. Wanted a certain # hp wise 600, and to be below or at 6k rpm. I Called Chris “straub” spoke with him for 10 minutes and he told me iv got the information I need from you and sent me my cam. After installing it I couldn’t believe how his black magic actually works. I dyno tested engine and the numbers were scary accurate. Not pushing any company over the other, but iv ordered cams from several and iv never had one this accurately duplicate my requested hp and rpm numbers. Iv had the valve covers off 5/6 times to check lash. I’ve adjusted them once at roughly 100 miles and They have been exactly correct since. Almost 1800 street miles and over 20 1/4 mile passes. Also Cruz and manners are very good.
Only my experience with a similar carbureted recipe which I recently dyno'd, I will cast a vote for the clay smith grind. Chris said it would work and it did netting me 560hp and a smidge shy of 580 lb ft (560 at 3000rpm... 500rpm above your stated stall limit) with an incredibly flat torque curve clear out to 6000rpm
That said, others have yielded similar results with similar recipes and different cams. My only advice is dont over think it. Get some feedback from the Mfg's as stated and other members withe similar combos and pick and go. Good luck.
Chris Straub what valve springs do you recommend to run with the 229/241 cam and the morel lifters I am seriously considering this cam for my build 454 (14096188) heads. Would a single beehive like a pac 1220 work with that cam?
I just let Chris supply the springs, retainers, locks,lifters, push rods, etc. Competitive prices and everything worked great. Mine has been in 4 years now.
That’s exactly what I may do, it’s good to hear a review like that! Did you go with the morel lifters and if so how have those been. It sounds like you’ve had no problem with the entire set up.
Most don't have issues when you look at the data and facts. We shipping literally thousands of set of hyd lifters a year and the sets sent back for warranty are less than .6%....not even 1%. GM would take that in a heart beat.
Well this is pretty much everything I needed to hear. I’ll be in touch with you in early April Chris
to order what I’ll need, and thanks for that explanation on the beehive springs with the big block heads.
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