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post #16 of 39 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 20, 3:52 PM
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Re: BBC advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by 68RS/SS View Post
I set the new Scat crank in the block for a mock up. The crank turns fine and very smooth. I put a couple pistons/rods in without rings and found the rods (Scat stroker profiled) hit on the camshaft side of the bottom of cyl bores of the adjacent bores,so I have to do some clearance grinding.
Should .070 be okay?
I was also concerned about windage and considering a pan change. Any thoughts on a Moroso 20403 ?
.070" is more than enough clearance
That pan will work well but I prefer the 20408. Same basic pan without those useless wings hanging out & getting in the way of a filter change with some headers......
Run the pan (actually either pan) with no more than 6qts total including filter,,, assuming a standard sized filter.
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post #17 of 39 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 20, 6:39 PM Thread Starter
Tom
 
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Re: BBC advice

Does anyone know what ARP rocker stud to run on the 074 heads? How do they differ from the stock studs and should I replace intake and exhaust studs? They may have been replaced before I acquired the heads as they were owned by a friend that circled track raced back in the 70's so I need to know how to tell the difference.
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post #18 of 39 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 20, 6:59 PM
Joe
 
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Re: BBC advice

ARP 235-7203/4 they are long, long enough for the exhaust studs to go into the water jackets. You will need to trim the studs above the exhaust crossover by a small amount. You donít want to drill through the exhaust crossover or you will have a leak that you canít plug. If you are going to run a big cam, think about a stud girdle.


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post #19 of 39 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 20, 7:20 PM
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Re: BBC advice

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Originally Posted by 68RS/SS View Post
Does anyone know what ARP rocker stud to run on the 074 heads? How do they differ from the stock studs and should I replace intake and exhaust studs? They may have been replaced before I acquired the heads as they were owned by a friend that circled track raced back in the 70's so I need to know how to tell the difference.
Installing those 8 exh rocker studs is a bit involved, I'd make certain whoever you choose to get it done has much experience with those "074" castings, same goes for the later "077" ones.

All 8 holes need to be "double heli-coiled" for the longer threaded bottoms! The post above about the 2 above the heat-passage is correct also, those 2 studs need to shortened but only by a few threads.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Much of the need for the studs is going to depend on the cam/spring choice for the unit! Mech-roller platforms are mandatory for the longer studs! Here's a shot of the studs as we buy them from ARP, we still sell about 4 or 5 sets of 16 (8/8) every year, always keep them on the shelf here!
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post #20 of 39 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 20, 11:14 PM
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Re: BBC advice

Sorry, its been awhile, but I had McQuillen's up near Rochester NY fix my heads and they double heli'ed each one as Gary describes. Mine were also "Oswego Super Modifed" 70's heads.

ALSO, I mis read your cam specs, its the [email protected]" SFT, and other than being single pattern, should be fine.

And I'd go 3" headpipes to the mufflers.

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post #21 of 39 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 20, 10:15 AM
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Re: BBC advice

68RS/SS "I have an old Edelbrock C427X that appears very similar to a factory intake."



I ran the oval port version of that manifold (C396) on a mild 496. That intake was down on power and torque compared the edelbrock performer RPM air gap intake. I picked up 18 HP and 21 LB/FT torque (peak) with the Air Gap intake.
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post #22 of 39 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 20, 4:01 PM
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Re: BBC advice

Tom, you *could* run that EDEL mani, but think a good ol -163 would be as good and prettier, looking like an old alloy L88. Peak HP wise I'd think teh EDEL and Holley might be equals but at differnet RPMs. I opted for a quasi-oem GMPP mani ( oval port heads however) for power's sake . AS good as the RPM. Mani swaps are easy tho, so run it if you got it.

You interested in a complete non-oem tripower setup? Polish those heads, look how good it'll shine, you can see your teeth in 'em! ( see pic below )

( and you'll likely be down a few HP from even the EDEL427X ! But its so cool! Only jesting as I havent decided to sell it. Thought I'd share the "shine off" pic between the polished 3X2 mani and 074 heads is all. A few years ago. Old Red's engine is so much more boring now with orange oval ports and +150 ft lbs and 100 hp! )

PS, Nathan and the folks at Autogear in Syracuse can fix you up with upgraded gears if need be. Or an upgraded case to put all your stuff in. Because its ONLY a matter of time with an oem Muncie.

You're gonna have a blast with this thing sir! Keep at it, spring's around the corner!
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post #23 of 39 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 20, 6:39 PM
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Re: BBC advice


This is the L88 tribute 496 I just put together for my Camaro. 163 intake with motion repo valve covers. Donít mind the exhaust manifolds, they will not fit a Camaro!


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post #24 of 39 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 20, 7:25 PM
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Re: BBC advice

I've always wondered how the old Edelbrock C427X stacks up against a Performmer RPM AirGap. The runners on the C427X look quite abit larger than the Airgap.

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post #25 of 39 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 20, 7:44 PM Thread Starter
Tom
 
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Re: BBC advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by 427L88 View Post
Tom, you *could* run that EDEL mani, but think a good ol -163 would be as good and prettier, looking like an old alloy L88. Peak HP wise I'd think teh EDEL and Holley might be equals but at differnet RPMs. I opted for a quasi-oem GMPP mani ( oval port heads however) for power's sake . AS good as the RPM. Mani swaps are easy tho, so run it if you got it.

You interested in a complete non-oem tripower setup? Polish those heads, look how good it'll shine, you can see your teeth in 'em! ( see pic below )

( and you'll likely be down a few HP from even the EDEL427X ! But its so cool! Only jesting as I havent decided to sell it. Thought I'd share the "shine off" pic between the polished 3X2 mani and 074 heads is all. A few years ago. Old Red's engine is so much more boring now with orange oval ports and +150 ft lbs and 100 hp! )

PS, Nathan and the folks at Autogear in Syracuse can fix you up with upgraded gears if need be. Or an upgraded case to put all your stuff in. Because its ONLY a matter of time with an oem Muncie.

You're gonna have a blast with this thing sir! Keep at it, spring's around the corner!

Gene,Thats a Sweet lookin Engine. I had a chance to get a 3x2 GM rect port set up years ago from the same guy that I got the heads and other parts from. I kick myself for not getting them. I think he wanted about $500 for the set up. I purchased a Hilborn Fuel injection set up instead. The fuel injection got away from me. Long story.
Thanks for mentioning Autogear. I had forgot the name. They are about 1 1/2 hr drive west of me.
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post #26 of 39 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 20, 7:58 PM Thread Starter
Tom
 
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Re: BBC advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by TTurbo565 View Post

This is the L88 tribute 496 I just put together for my Camaro. 163 intake with motion repo valve covers. Donít mind the exhaust manifolds, they will not fit a Camaro!


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Very Nice, I expect my BB to look nearly the same. I figure with enough aluminum parts it should remove substantial weight from the front end of the car. My Ansen valve covers look much the same. I like the looks of them and I expect them to fit okay in the power brake booster area and still fit with the roller rockers. Gen 1 Camaro BBC owners know how tight the area is.
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post #27 of 39 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 20, 8:40 PM Thread Starter
Tom
 
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Re: BBC advice

Just to Clarify things a bit. This engine will be put in my 68 RS/SS Camaro. It was an original BB car and worth(at least to me)it to restore it to its former glory or at least fairly close. There cant be too many of these cars left. The Car will be pretty stock looking in most respects. No racing at all. Just street cruising etc with a good running and sounding engine.
I purchased the car back in 1978 and it had a modified 375hp 396 in it. The car was partially gutted to reduce weight and was being drag raced. It had 4.88 gears in it. It had a General Kinetics solid cam in it and it would stall if idled to 1100 rpm. I kept the idle at 1200.
I blew up the M22, having busted all the teeth off first gear and main shaft and split the case. I also sheared all the ring gear bolts off a time or two and finally tore the teeth off the ring and pinion.
This all took place around 1979. The M22 was replaced by the M21. I re-geared the 12 Bolt to 4.10
Even the 4.10's have taken a beating. I'm now re gearing to 3.73's.
I regrettably let a family member take the car for a drive and he lost it on a curvy road and slid it side ways thru a road sign and rock wall(Lesson learnt the hard way here)and destroying the car.This was in 1980.
Wherever I moved thru the years the car followed me. I have a long way to go restoring it. I do have a lot of parts in storage for the project that I have been years gathering.
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post #28 of 39 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 20, 8:47 PM Thread Starter
Tom
 
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Re: BBC advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by GOSFAST View Post
Installing those 8 exh rocker studs is a bit involved, I'd make certain whoever you choose to get it done has much experience with those "074" castings, same goes for the later "077" ones.

All 8 holes need to be "double heli-coiled" for the longer threaded bottoms! The post above about the 2 above the heat-passage is correct also, those 2 studs need to shortened but only by a few threads.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Much of the need for the studs is going to depend on the cam/spring choice for the unit! Mech-roller platforms are mandatory for the longer studs! Here's a shot of the studs as we buy them from ARP, we still sell about 4 or 5 sets of 16 (8/8) every year, always keep them on the shelf here!
Would the stud upgrade be needed for a [email protected] .595 SFT cam with 350 lb (open) Springs?
I wont have room for stud girdles or even tall covers for that matter.
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post #29 of 39 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 20, 9:39 PM
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Re: BBC advice

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Originally Posted by 68RS/SS View Post
Would the stud upgrade be needed for a [email protected] .595 SFT cam with 350 lb (open) Springs?
I wont have room for stud girdles or even tall covers for that matter.
Hi Tom, makes no difference here, we will not do those 074's OR 077's without the long exh stud bottoms, it's just too risky and not worth it leaving the short studs there.

We also step all the guides down for the 11/32" stems, this is "standard-operating-procedure" here on these castings.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. These were all originally small intake runner castings, around 290 or so as-cast, they need all the help they can get! To answer you question, yes, I would do the studs regardless. You should be around 150#/160# on the seat and 370# open at that lift! Initial start-up with the outer springs only with flat-tappets. Basically we use the same pressures on the hyd-roller platform.

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post #30 of 39 (permalink) Old Jan 7th, 20, 8:14 AM
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Re: BBC advice

Yeah, what Gary says. I'm no pro, but you dont want to bust off a rocker arm boss during a spirited highway run with a buddy on board. Frankly Tom, I may have floated the valve, and the resultant bad harmonics did the casting in. Went with heavier springs next time ( ISKY 8005a)

These are leaky azz castings btw. I sealed the water jacket around a runner with JB weld, lost header bolts via expansion, and a smear of RTV around all the ports was required with the old tripower manifold. But I ran the heck out of them, even driving 11 hours straight at times.

I like the look tho! Joe's mill looks very "proper"!
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