Drag racing 489 build - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old Aug 25th, 19, 7:59 AM Thread Starter
 
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Drag racing 489 build

I'm building a 454 mark iv 4 bolts for drag racing only to put on my 2014 mustang(yeah right a ford don't curse me) and i'm looking for a build that will never see the street. I'll assemble the engine myself but when it comes to selecting all the parts i get lost so it'd be nice to have a part list that would fit my needs. I have around 5k to put on the engine and i want to have the max hp for this budget.

To make it easier here's everything i know, right now the block is .30 over and i'd like to stroke it for a 489 n/a. I already have a th400, 4.10 rear gears and 29.5in radial. The car is gonna be ~3000-3100lbs with driver and i'll be running on 110-118 octane gas depending on what is best for the build. I can get my hands a on good cheap sets of 781 oval ports is that a good choice? I'd love to have aluminium heads but with my budget i don't know if that's out of my league. I'd like to run single carb(not efi) if possible. Also should i use locked distributor with ignition retard or with advance for track only? Yes i want to be abusing the engine but i don't want to be overasking it since i'm not doing any competition so i guess around 7k rpm max would be nice.

That's pretty much everything i've got for now but if you need any more information i'll try to get your answer.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old Aug 25th, 19, 8:23 AM
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Rob
 
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Re: Drag racing 489 build

First off, welcome to the forum. You've come to the right place when seeking info on how to build a rat. I'd suggest doing a search on 489, 496 and see what some of the members have done with their combinations. there's a ton of information out there.
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old Aug 25th, 19, 8:56 AM
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rick
 
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Re: Drag racing 489 build

I bought and will be getting more parts from member Mike Lewis aka "Wolfplace" for my 489, either him or Mark Jones aka "Vortecpro" and a few other members here can help you


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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old Aug 25th, 19, 9:21 AM
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Jason
 
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Re: Drag racing 489 build

I'll second Mike Lewis "Wolfplace" for parts selection.

For what you are wanting to do, I would look at the Molnar rods (standard with ARP 2000 bolts). The Molnar center counterweight cranks are a little more expensive than a comparable Scat, etc., but may be easier to balance and save some money there.

Jason Gore
AKA DragRacer
Naturally Aspriated 450 SBC - 915 HP / 714 lb-ft
3370 lbs
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old Aug 25th, 19, 9:40 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Drag racing 489 build

Thanks for the welcome! I've actually been here for quite a while but ever made an account. I'll definitely look into Mike Lewis and Vortecpro. About the molnar parts, price seems about right i don't really mind putting more money o the bottom end if it can save more money in the long run but do you think it would be better to buy a complete rotating assembly? I checked their website and don't think they offer some.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old Aug 25th, 19, 10:01 AM
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rick
 
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Re: Drag racing 489 build

I bought a balanced rotating ass., Autotec/Racetec forged 22 cc pistons & rings, Scat forged 4.25" crank, was going to get Molnar rods but went with Manley instead and rod & main bearings (don't remember why no Molnar) with ARP 2000 cap screws from Mike at a very good price, and free shipping
gotta go do some work to order more parts


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Last edited by shovelrick; Aug 25th, 19 at 10:03 AM. Reason: more text
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old Aug 25th, 19, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Drag racing 489 build

Thats nice what cr are you aiming? and one great thing about this swap is that i sold everything i had on the car that won't be necessary so it won't be that pricey
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old Aug 25th, 19, 2:23 PM
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rick
 
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I'm going with a set of Brodix 294 rec port with c&c option and 115 c.c. chambers from Mike for 10.77:1 comp. hoping for 600 hp&tq


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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old Aug 25th, 19, 2:28 PM
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Greg
 
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Going to be tough on a 5K budget. Not impossible, well, you’re going to have to score some deals to make it happen. A good rotating assembly is going to eat nearly half your budget. Solid roller cam, lifters, springs, pushrods, etc. is going to eat another $1500-2000 depending on what you get. By the time you get a good oil pan, pump, pickup, rockers, intake, balancer...you’re way over budget.
If you have the bottom end from that 454, get rods worked with good bolts, get crank reground by someone that knows their stuff, use those 781 heads, that will save a bunch of money, live just fine under 7000 rpm, and done right will make more power than you’d ever think possible..and there’s a good chance you’ll be under your budget.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old Aug 25th, 19, 3:18 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Drag racing 489 build

Quote:
Originally Posted by Iforgot View Post
Going to be tough on a 5K budget. Not impossible, well, you’re going to have to score some deals to make it happen. A good rotating assembly is going to eat nearly half your budget. Solid roller cam, lifters, springs, pushrods, etc. is going to eat another $1500-2000 depending on what you get. By the time you get a good oil pan, pump, pickup, rockers, intake, balancer...you’re way over budget.
If you have the bottom end from that 454, get rods worked with good bolts, get crank reground by someone that knows their stuff, use those 781 heads, that will save a bunch of money, live just fine under 7000 rpm, and done right will make more power than you’d ever think possible..and there’s a good chance you’ll be under your budget.
Not going the stroker route will surely save me some bucks but i didn't check yet if it's a forged or cast crank since i'm still working on the motor plate/trans support. If it's a cast crank i'm not sure if it'll hold up fine with the abuse i'll be putting it through. If i get thees 781 i guess i'll need dome piston to bump the compression by a lot(since running on 110octane+ i think i should try to get around 12.5:1.
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old Aug 25th, 19, 3:27 PM
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Re: Drag racing 489 build

Why are determined to run 110 octane gas? Lots of friends built their race cars to run pump gas, the money they save goes towards entry fees and other cost associated with running the car.

How quick do you want the car to run?

Steve R
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old Aug 25th, 19, 5:57 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Drag racing 489 build

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve R View Post
Why are determined to run 110 octane gas? Lots of friends built their race cars to run pump gas, the money they save goes towards entry fees and other cost associated with running the car.

How quick do you want the car to run?

Steve R
Since i'll be running n/a, compression will help make more power. Close to where i lives it's mostly 1/8mile and almost free but i'd like to be in the mid 6
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old Aug 25th, 19, 11:18 PM
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Greg
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GabLeGrand View Post

Not going the stroker route will surely save me some bucks but i didn't check yet if it's a forged or cast crank since i'm still working on the motor plate/trans support. If it's a cast crank i'm not sure if it'll hold up fine with the abuse i'll be putting it through. If i get thees 781 i guess i'll need dome piston to bump the compression by a lot(since running on 110octane+ i think i should try to get around 12.5:1.
Cast crank will live fine under 7000 rpm, provided its ground properly. I ran a cheap speed pro hyper 12:1 468, stock (arp bolts) rods, cast crank, for a couple seasons with absolutely no problems at all. Ran 7.00’s at 3700 pounds. Not saying use hyper or cast pistons, just saying cast crank is stronger than it gets credit for sometimes.

Greg C.
1969 Chevelle Malibu
New, waaaay overcammed 496 "The Dud"
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old Aug 26th, 19, 6:38 AM
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Re: Drag racing 489 build

If race gas is not a problem, build as much compression as you can. 110 octane will be fine up to 13.5:1. Higher octane does nothing for performance. If you have to buy a crank, then by all means get a 4.25 crank, they cost the same amount as a 4" crank.

Ray


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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old Aug 26th, 19, 9:15 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iforgot View Post
Cast crank will live fine under 7000 rpm, provided its ground properly. I ran a cheap speed pro hyper 12:1 468, stock (arp bolts) rods, cast crank, for a couple seasons with absolutely no problems at all. Ran 7.00’s at 3700 pounds. Not saying use hyper or cast pistons, just saying cast crank is stronger than it gets credit for sometimes.
Race gas isn't a problem at all but still i don't want to go the alchy route. 13.5cr with good head(still hesitating on the 781 heads) should make decent power. I might have got my hands on solid roller lifter/rocker for $300 that'd be great

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