Vortec Heads / Header-Plug Proximity Issues - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 19, 3:47 PM Thread Starter
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Shawn
 
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Vortec Heads / Header-Plug Proximity Issues

Starting a new thread because I wasn't able to resurrect an old one.

In my '68 I'm running a Blueprint 355 with a set of their alum. heads (PN# H8002). I reused my headers from the 327 and I have clearance issues with #5 plug that I never had with the iron heads. I spoke with Blueprint and their specs say the plug placement is the same as a vortec motor and recommended Sanderson headers, which have a really high pipe routing, but they're double or more the cost of say Flowtechs that I saw others have used. Any suggestions?

I just want to make sure I don't have the same issue (or create a new one) than what I already have. FWIW, I plan to wrap them, so cheaper painted headers are fine by me.

As always, thanks guys!

Mel0Yel068
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 19, 6:01 PM
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Jeff
 
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Re: Vortec Heads / Header-Plug Proximity Issues

I ran into the same problem with Vortec heads. It seems the spark plug is located closer to the exhaust port on Vortec heads. I used Hedman headers and "clearance the tube" near #5 spark plug. It's on the rear of the tube, so once the plug wire is on you really don't notice it. And if you're wrapping them anyway, you'll never see it.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 19, 11:16 PM
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Eric
 
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Re: Vortec Heads / Header-Plug Proximity Issues

Different brand plugs offer different lengths on the porcelain side. I use NGK plugs on my vortec headed small blocks with cheapie flowtech headers with no interference issues.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 15th, 19, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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Shawn
 
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Re: Vortec Heads / Header-Plug Proximity Issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrofox View Post
I ran into the same problem with Vortec heads. It seems the spark plug is located closer to the exhaust port on Vortec heads. I used Hedman headers and "clearance the tube" near #5 spark plug. It's on the rear of the tube, so once the plug wire is on you really don't notice it. And if you're wrapping them anyway, you'll never see it.
Understood. I'm burning through plug boots until finally spark jumps and it runs like a turd, even with the wrap. If I'm just going to beat up the headers, I might as well keep the ones I have.

While #5 is the only one 'too close' to the header, all but 1 have to be put in with a wrench, because there's no room or the right angle for a socket. What a PITA.

Mel0Yel068
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 15th, 19, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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Shawn
 
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Re: Vortec Heads / Header-Plug Proximity Issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by dell72 View Post
Different brand plugs offer different lengths on the porcelain side. I use NGK plugs on my vortec headed small blocks with cheapie flowtech headers with no interference issues.
I've been down this road already and I found that 'header' plugs or 'stubbys' aren't any shorter than the NGKs I have now (R5672A-9). I've actually successfully been running a cut down plug. I used a diamond wheel to cut the porcelain, nipped the core, and re-seated the tip. It's not ideal, but its working. I think I'll jut beat on the headers and make more room vs making my own plugs going forward.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 15th, 19, 1:41 PM
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Re: Vortec Heads / Header-Plug Proximity Issues

Ceramic boot ends go a long way to help prevent the burn through or breakdown of the insulator. Add the high heat boot sleeve to help protect the actual wire near the header.

They make different angles of ceramic boots, so pick the one that gets you away from the header faster.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 15th, 19, 5:25 PM
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Re: Vortec Heads / Header-Plug Proximity Issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mel0Yel068 View Post

While #5 is the only one 'too close' to the header, all but 1 have to be put in with a wrench, because there's no room or the right angle for a socket. What a PITA.
Take a spark plug socket, one that has a hex on the outside, and cut it so it's only about half of the original length. (or just buy a shorty) The reason for cutting the socket is so that it won't interfere with headers. Your spark plug will protrude through the end.
Use a 3/4" flex-head ratcheting gear-wrench on your shorty spark plug socket. This setup has worked very well for me on a number of cars. Worst case, you'll have better access with a traditional wrench.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sle-30102




Hope this helps..

-Dave
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 16th, 19, 1:18 PM
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Re: Vortec Heads / Header-Plug Proximity Issues

Dent the header and be done with it. You won't lose any performance. Do their heads use a .75" reach gasket seat plug or a .708" reach tapered seat vortec plug?

If the .75" reach you could run an accel shorty plug the 0416S. If the .708" reach the P526S.

I bought a snap on socket designed for changing plugs on LT1 engines. It works great on my BBC which #7 cannot be changed without it.

https://shop.snapon.com/product/S9724RHS
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 16th, 19, 11:49 PM
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Re: Vortec Heads / Header-Plug Proximity Issues

Same problem; my solution...bought Autolite plug #104, and then ground almost 1/4 inch from top of the plug. Boot still fits tight, and I have enough clearance..working so far and I drive it 50-100 miles when I take it out. Denting header also works, but mine were so nice I just couldn't do it.

You can get the plugs cheap on Amazon.

Bob
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