Aluminum heads or full roller valvetrain? - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Unread Apr 19th, 19, 6:34 PM Thread Starter
BH
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Ben
 
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Aluminum heads or full roller valvetrain?

I've got a 67 300 Custom Deluxe that weighs about 3300 lbs...not sure if that's with or without 180lbs of driver. I'm running a 355/350 combo with 4.11 gears on 28x11.5 slicks. It's a 4 bolt with cast crank and stock rods. I'm running H631CP hypereutectic pistons. The cam is a flat-tappet hydraulic 280H grind from Comp Cams, so .480 lift. Heads are cast iron Vortec with 64cc chambers and 1.94/1.50 valves, ported and polished with a 7 angle valve job, screw in studs and guide plates, and roller-tip rockers. Deck height is either .005 or .008, but my notes conflict on this. Current compression ratio is either 10.52 or 10.60:1, depending on which of those numbers is accurate. I've got a Performer RPM Air Gap manifold with a 650 CFM Holley prepped for racing by AED. Standard HEI ignition, cheap-ass headers and the biggest damn mechanical fuel pump I could find. I run on 93 octane pump gas.

I shift at 5000 RPM. Good 60' times are high 1.7s but it's usually in the low 1.8 range. 1/4 mile is 13 flat in the dead heat with the car warmed up, closer to 12.80 in good air. Trap speeds are usually in the 103-104 MPH range.

So...should I go full roller valvetrain or aluminum heads? My gut feeling is that some good AFR or Brodix heads would probably be the way to go. I'd like to get down around 12.50. I definitely don't want to go any quicker than 12.00 flat, but I doubt that I'm in any real danger of getting near that. I wouldn't mind bumping up the red line closer to 6000 RPM. I used to shift at 5800 when I ran a Muncie. I'm also guessing that a cam swap might require a bigger carburetor. Thoughts? Recommendations?
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Unread Apr 19th, 19, 6:54 PM
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Gary
 
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Re: Aluminum heads or full roller valvetrain?

i would build a 406 shortblock if i were you but if i had to pick one or the other i would prob pick a mech roller cam but you will have to upgrade the whole valvetrain. if its a drag race only deal i would go with something in the low 240s at 50 on 108
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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Unread Apr 19th, 19, 7:32 PM
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I would go with the heads. If it can great, it will run. Its just a big air pump after all.
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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Unread Apr 19th, 19, 7:53 PM
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Re: Aluminum heads or full roller valvetrain?

I would go with new aluminum heads.

Head over to Team Camaro; there are lots of small block experts over there and I know the best value in heads is not brodix or afr. A nice set is about $1000.

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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Unread Apr 19th, 19, 8:01 PM
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Re: Aluminum heads or full roller valvetrain?

I'd look at ProMaxx heads. I have a pair of their 317cc big block heads and they're very nice. Only paid $1150 bare. Straub and Foxwell gave them a once over, tested valve jobs and hardness and pronounced them good for the money. Brodix RR might be another to check out, they make quality heads.
If you swap heads, watch your valve spring pressures closely and try to mimic what you have with the Vortecs, as long as what you have now seems happy.

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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Unread Apr 19th, 19, 8:51 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Aluminum heads or full roller valvetrain?

gnicholson: Sorry but I don't quite understand your response. I'm not building a new engine. What does "I would go with something in the low 240s at 50 on 108" mean? Are you talking about a cam grind? It's basically drag race only. I like to drive it on the street but I'd rather win on the weekends.
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Unread Apr 19th, 19, 10:05 PM
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Re: Aluminum heads or full roller valvetrain?

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Originally Posted by BH View Post
I'd rather win on the weekends.

Ben,


If that really is your concern I would be doing everything you can to get the car as consistent as possible and forget about how fast it is running.



That being said . . . what is your trap rpm ? What transmission and converter ? You would lose a few pounds with the aluminum heads. I just don't know if it would be worth the expense to change to a roller valve train just to pick up a couple of tenths.



Does the car spin at all ? It does not take much at all to lose a tenth or two.
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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Unread Apr 19th, 19, 10:07 PM
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Re: Aluminum heads or full roller valvetrain?

I would switch to a roller cam and leave the rest alone. Did you see how good the heads flow? If they have been ported, maybe they flow decent enough. If the heads donít flow well, then step up to a better set.

Have you tried shifting higher to see if your times/mph improved?

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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Unread Apr 19th, 19, 11:24 PM
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Re: Aluminum heads or full roller valvetrain?

for what youre doing and what your combo is the vortec heads are pretty hard to beat. you might pick up a little trap speed and a few hundreds with some 200 cc heads that flow .270 or so on the intake with larger valves but you really need to rev it higher or have a larger engine to really take advantage of better heads. not to mention you would need to change intake cam carb etc to optimize it. the roller cam will pick it up more with what you have but like i said you will need to add the correct valve springs push rods roller rockers etc to work with the cam. also the valve guides need to be cut down for retainer to guide clearance. i was giving cam specs
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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Unread Apr 19th, 19, 11:31 PM
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The JEGS heads use to be made by profiler. If they still are, they are good heads. Around $1200.00 to your door. Might even be less these days. I have never ran a Roller so i can't really say the pros and con's. I did however run a 68 long bed c-10 in the 90's . Small block, and ran in the low 11's. All the old engine builders use to say, if it can breath it will run. I still feel that's true today. Lots of people like the roller set up, maybe I'm missing out on something? 😵
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post #11 of 33 (permalink) Unread Apr 20th, 19, 12:41 AM
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Re: Aluminum heads or full roller valvetrain?

Get good suspension components, get the car to 60, then when you have money to make more power, it's just an adjustment away. I think if you look for Davey's builds he got his car hooking well, and kept building more power.

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post #12 of 33 (permalink) Unread Apr 20th, 19, 1:26 AM
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Re: Aluminum heads or full roller valvetrain?

to be honest i would prob tune what you have 1st have you tried tuning the carb and ignition advance curve? the right flat tappet cam would pick it up some.
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post #13 of 33 (permalink) Unread Apr 20th, 19, 1:32 AM
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Pull one head, have it flowed then order a custom hyd roller cam to match. Along with new springs, full roller rockers, then proper 5/16”x.105 or .115 thick wall pushrods.
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post #14 of 33 (permalink) Unread Apr 20th, 19, 9:37 AM
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Re: Aluminum heads or full roller valvetrain?

Shift higher, step up to a better head. Better believe theres a difference!
If budget allows the right roller cam will really help...dont be afraid of a solid!

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post #15 of 33 (permalink) Unread Apr 20th, 19, 10:11 AM
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Re: Aluminum heads or full roller valvetrain?

Kerry, correct me if I am wrong, but you can only give Vortecs so much cam. I would NOT spend the dime on a custom roller setup with limited heads. To wit, you cant get .520 lift out of them, right? therefore : HEADS.

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