I posted a year or so about my 66 chevelle questioning what it would run at the track
Well I finally had a chance to take it and now Iím looking for tips to improve my times knowing thereís more in it
My car is a 66 chevelle weighing 3700 pounds with me in it. It has a 496 with rhs320 heads and a hydraulic roller cam victor jr single plane and a Holley 1000hp th400 with a 3500 stall to a 12 bolt with 3.55 gears and posi
And the tires are 275 60 15 Mickey Thompson et Street r drag radials 28 inches tall
The best 60 foot I managed was a 1.7 while running 11.3 at 120 in the quarter I feel as this car should be capable to break into the tens any tips or tricks or advice would be great to hear from you guys with experience thanks
need some low end torque to get the 60 ft lower, better air, lighter weight.
Somethings you can do for free, run 1/2 quart lower on oil, no need to run it so full, most the time running oil near the top just whips the oil. run it near the bottom of safe line. I know some folks will say hey don't mess with oil levels it's not safe- well what they don't know to much hurts just as to little. Run near bottom of safe mark and run a thin oil.
Lash the valves near zero lash, some folks really crank the **** out of the lifters, back them off just past zero lash even on hydraulic it helps low end torque.
crank the timing up if your not pinging you haven't gone to far, don't be shy with the timing, way to many folks are to conservative. Lock it out and get a start retard box. But for free tinker on it and get turned up, at the track increase timing til trap speed falls I have had as high as 44 total on bbc's let the trap speed be the judge not these old heads on this board.
rear differential fluid, not totally free, but run a thinner rear gear lube- it's cheap.
If you got the hood room run more carb spacer under carb, taller the better builds more torque even adding another 1" will help.
Free advise- don't be to concerned with those telling you about carb cfm because of some calculation- the calculators don't take in effect of the intake you run, for example a dual plane intake requires more carb to slow down the air speed so the air and fuel can turn, to small of a carb and the air speed is so high it slams into the plenum floor, put a bigger carb on and tada it makes more power because the air speed is slower, the air fuel can make the turn and stay atomized. there is more to it than a calculator that is way outdated.
Your going to make more torque and power with a single plane with spacers than you will with a dual plane in the rpm range your in.
What water pump are you running, need to run electric or get a used stock one and grind every other vane, water pumps use about 30+ hp to operate and really drag the hp down. Other thing you can do if you can slow down the water pump.
Make sure you are running a quality air cleaner- don't be one of those fools who run no air cleaner, this really shows how ignorant you are specially if you don't have a base to direct airflow There is power to be had with proper, there is a nice video on youtube testing all different bases, check it. I knew of this since the 90's doing my own testing, just nice to see a video backing it up. But to this date many ignore this but by golly they will speed 500 bucks to make 10 hp but run an open carb just to throw it out. makes no sense.
Exhaust- running full, running open headers, dumps, it all matters, there is some power in the exhaust, just don't run open headers- add extensions for low end torque boost 18" seem to work well- pipe must be same diameter as collector. put dumps around 18" back if can. run straight thru mufflers, exhaust is about velocity don't screw it up with junk azz flowmasters or a like. There more to share enough for now.
free power in proper jetting of the carb, takes a few trips, but jet according to trap speed.
enough for now, good luck