Alan, I left the vacuum guage mounted in the car after I did all my carb tuning. I use it as the dead true signal a valve is amiss is why, I dont trust my ears, I trust my vac guage. Once it start fluttering, something's moved. Well, sometimes hot fuel causes a thin idle, but its pretty foolproof. Also helped when I lost the intake gasket , internally, playing where is the vac leak? In the galley!
So I ran the valves on mine today with 262 miles on the engine. I only checked them because I’m trying to quantify what is the “normal” sound of the valve train at a certain clearance, so I can mentally benchmark it for future observation.
Anyway, when I set them on the stand before it went in the car, I had them at .008/.010” and I was VERY particular about adjusting the intakes when the exhaust just started to open, maybe 25%, and I adjusted the exhausts when the intake was closing at about 50% or so. On the stand, with a ratchet on the balancer I could easily get it where I wanted it.
Today, just using the starter to bump it into position and “getting it close enough”, they were all really close. 2 valves were about .001” tighter and a few of the exhausts were about .005” loose. I can easily contribute this to not having the lobes is EXACTLY the same position as last time, not to mention the rest of the black grease leaving the rocker arm trunions etc.. Not to mention just the “feel” of the feeler gauge dragging across the valve stem.
I loosened the two tighter ones by .001”. I left all the exh where they were at .0105”. I feel like this is REALLY splitting hairs here but, now that I have a method for checking them in the car, I’ll do it the same way and watch for trends.
Took me exactly an hour and 20 mins, start to finish...including clean up. Not bad for some piece of mind.
I won’t check them again for a while now unless I hear a reason too...seems like they are holding pretty well.
Now where is my Xanax?