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looking to get my 72 into the 10's

3K views 30 replies 11 participants last post by  B433 
#1 ·
current setup is a 383 10.5-1 compression eagle rotating assembly cast crank i beam rods and hyperutectic pistons ,comp solid roller 630/630 252 int./258 exh.@50 camshaft,
aluminum dart pro1 2.05 215cc heads ported, vic jr intake and a proform 750 carb. drive train is a th350 built,has a dennys drive shaft and a moser 12 bolt with 4:11 gears.not sure on the weight of the car pretty much factory except fiberglass hood aluminum heads and wheels so im gonna guess around 35-3600 with me in it.
best track slip with the car to date is.

E.t 11.21
Mph 118
60ft 1.59

I want do another 383 with a forged rotating assembly
afr 210 eliminator heads
super victor intake
howards cams 4/7 swap 640/640lift 257 int./263 exh duration @50 108 lob seperation
reuse my proform 750 carb
Would this new setup get me there? Any info would be much appreciated :smile2:
 
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#3 ·
Charles,

Before you decide a combination you really need to know what your car weighs. Any way you can do that ? Maybe a circle track shop around that has a set of scales for setting up cars ?

It is probably in the area of 3500 lbs and if you weigh 200 thats 3700 lbs on the track. To get into the tens reliably you will need around 600 hp. You will be pushing a 383 to get to that unless you are going to build a high compression engine and spin it 7000 rpm or more.

I personally dont think it will happen without some more cubic inches.
 
#4 ·
Not sure what RPM you are crossing at but 4.56's might help get you 60 ft down and cross at a higher rpm to get mph up. You maybe crossing traps at 5,800 I don't know the entire set up. The issue of course with lowering gear is that it does reduce the drivability at higher speeds.
 
#7 ·
I have a 383 in my 71 with the same cam, intake and trans. Much smaller heads and 3.90 gears. Ive been toying with swapping to a bigger set of heads. I was thinking it might get to about where yours is. Interesting to see.

I think you will need more cam and compression to get there. Be surprised if you pick up much, but maybe you will.
 
#9 ·
Suspension:
upper and lower tubular control arms rear sway bar competition engineering 3 way shocks set on 50/50

Exhaust:
dynotech headers 1 3/4 stepped to 1 7/8
3" exhaust with H pipe and dynomax race bullets dumped at the rear

Converter:
tci 4000 stall

Carb:
pro form 750 out the box haven't touched the jetting yet

Timing:
36* degrees total
 
#10 ·
Here is my take.

1. You have been given great advice so far.

2. You MIGHT get there with a few changes to what you have. You can work on the suspension to make sure you have everything out of the suspension....if you could get the 60 to 1.35 then that's about 3 tenths there and enough for a 10.99 run. Please make mention of what you have done to the suspension and what tires you are running. You can also change out the front hub assembly for light weight calipers, less drag pads, light weight bearings, repack the bearings, and whatever other drag racing stuff they sell for the front end of these things. You might also take a look at your carb, intake, and heads. The carb is a bit small and maybe a Holley 850 HP race carb would help. Also the intake and heads could be ported to help you out a lot and maybe tach on a set 1.6 rockers as well as a 2.08 valve. Are you running race mufflers? These are a few changes that can get you 3 tenths without building a new motor. A converter matching a dyno run or chassis dyno run given to a top converter company would be a key change too.

3. Its been my experience that pump gas 383's are hard to get a Chevelle into the 10's with full street trim. Mid 11's are norm for a 383 Chevelle. Now if the car has been gutted and lightweight things have been used then this is another story. I would not build another 383. You should look to build a 400 plus cubic inch engine like a 400 or a 406. If building this engine, then the parts you are wanting to put in a new 383 should get you there.
 
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#11 ·
I was typing while your were answering.

I would look at some good Viking double adjustable shocks.

The exhaust looks good.

As far as the converter, you could have worst, but a engine dyno run or chassis dyno run given to a converter company like ATI or Coan would be great.

You could a little more out of the 750 with the correct jetting, but still feel a Holley HP 850 or something similar would be better. A race carb.
 
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#13 ·
Thanks guys i appreciate the information all good tips! Hopefully over the winter i can address some things like suspension and carb tuning and what not. would love to see my car in the tens on motor! i feel like i'm so close. If i do go the route of a new build though i wouldn't mind adding some nitrous i feel the forged setup would allow me to do so buuut would sure be nice to say i have an all motor ten second car tho!:beers:
 
#15 ·
With that cast crank you might get away with the Powershot system. A 125 shot....usually get about 80 to 85 horsepower.

Let us know what we can do....and good luck.
 
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#19 ·
I would start by trying to knock the 60' down myself. Figure out what the best rpm to shift it at, and then where you should cross and gear the car to that. A little lower gear will help get the car moving, but also keep the engine in its peak power area. Granted the power is not an issue right now. The car is not moving in 60'. That is not a reflection of shift point or peak power rpm. There may also be room in the converter stall, especially if its a shelf type converter. If you start shifting at 6500 and it drops to 5500 in the gear change, you could probably move the stall to 45-5000. At that point start looking at the suspension. See how fast the front end moves and how much travel it has, and look at the rear end and if it is planting the tire and staying planted. I would be happy around 1.50 right now.
 
#31 ·
Do you have an idea on peak power rpm? If it is like 6,800-7,000 rpm more gear would help if you are crossing at 6,200. But as I said above there is a trade off. At 118 mph you are doing really good as far as ET. Some experts can chime in but I think you need a mph of like 120+ to get in 10's assuming you general NA car parameters. Some may have done it with less mph but I am just assuming general conditions.
I agree with both of these replies, I ran 11.20`s @ 118 with 1.50ish 60`s . It wasnt until I got into the high 1.40`s and picked up some mph that I got into the 10`s the more mph you can run and better 60 the easier it will be, my old comb ran 10.70`s @123-25 with mid to high 1.40`s in the 60.

Brian
 
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#20 ·
Do you have an idea on peak power rpm? If it is like 6,800-7,000 rpm more gear would help if you are crossing at 6,200. But as I said above there is a trade off. At 118 mph you are doing really good as far as ET. Some experts can chime in but I think you need a mph of like 120+ to get in 10's assuming you general NA car parameters. Some may have done it with less mph but I am just assuming general conditions.
 
#22 ·
If you don’t have low rate, long springs for the front suspension, get some ASAP. Also double adjustable front shocks, and I would get rear ones as well.
Get a custom converter, and lastly a Q850 carb.
You also need to play with timing. Increase 1 degree at a time, and watch the mph.
 
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