71malibu engine broke need advice on moving forward - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 66 (permalink) Old Oct 20th, 18, 8:27 AM Thread Starter
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71malibu engine broke need advice on moving forward

New to the sight. Have been reading for a long time. Lots of good information and some really knowledgeable people. Thanks in advance for any help. 454 with 177 blower under the hood. Broke 2 pistons. Looking at new 632 crate from blueprint. Mostly due to price and warrenty. Car has 12bolt with 4:56 gear. Trans is super street fighter with 2200 stall. Th400. The rest is bone stock. Looking for some help on a proper set up now that the car is undergoing major repair.engine converter and rear gear I am open to changing. Budget is 16000 for all 3. I’m sick of buying things twice and three times and the package never working properly. Thanks again guys.
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post #2 of 66 (permalink) Old Oct 20th, 18, 9:01 AM
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Re: 71malibu engine broke need advice on moving forward

I'd for sure put WAY less gear in there. Exactly how much depends on what you use the car for. Seems like you'd need a cage with a 632 and any real traction.
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post #3 of 66 (permalink) Old Oct 20th, 18, 9:27 AM
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Re: 71malibu engine broke need advice on moving forward

Well the main question you have to ask yourself is "what is the main purpose for the car?" A 632 in a basically stock 71 chassis is (IMHO) a complete waste of time and money. However, a properly prepared big block (454-496) from the likes of Mark Jones or Mike Lewis in a stock chassis is more than a handful and money well spent. Then again, if you have a back half chassis with the necessary mods to handle the torque of a 632, then by all means, press forward.

So, what's the end game for the car and maybe we can steer you in the right direction?
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post #4 of 66 (permalink) Old Oct 20th, 18, 10:42 AM
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Re: 71malibu engine broke need advice on moving forward

The help you seek begins with forcing yourself to be objective about what you want to end up with. How are you going to use the car? Hereís a few questions that could help.

How many miles a year are you going to drive the car?
What percentage of the miles will be used for:
- drag racing on a track;
- drag racing on the street;
- closed course racing on a track;
- driving in town;
- highway driving?
What ET do you want to run?
How fast do you want to drive on the highway?
How important is the visual impact of your car:
- for car shows;
- for cruise ins?
How important is your car for bench racing?
Is fuel economy of any importance?
How important is comfort (noise, cabin temp, ride quality, handling and braking)?

Personally, I hate to see people spend a disproportionate amount of money on any one area of their car. Iím impressed with cars that are well proportioned for the ownerís purposes.
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People donít like to have to think in high resolution. Jordan Peterson. Thatís why we are forced in to so many binary choices.
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post #5 of 66 (permalink) Old Oct 20th, 18, 10:57 AM
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What others said above👍 Looking for a disaster and to spend lots of money putting a 632 in a stock everything else car.

And, why do you need a 632? Race only, or street/strip car?
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post #6 of 66 (permalink) Old Oct 20th, 18, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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Hi guys. Thanks for the responses. I should have elaborated a little more. I own a 71 nova that is back half ladder bar 468 6-71. Drag car. This chevelle I would like to build a primarily street 9 sec car. 990-10 most likely. No cage. No tubed rear. no spray or methanol injection. My plan was 632 blueprint. 3.73 gear. Hopefully my current converter and trans. I will likely be adding adjustable upper and lower arms on the rear as well as coil overs. Possible 4 link/ladder bars. Suggestions? I currently have poly bushings in the rear end that I forgot to mention. Also the rear end cane with the 4:56 gears. Those have to go. ASAP. So basically trying to get to 990-10 with a legitimate street car. My nova runs 9:28. I drive it on the street. It’s registered. But hardly a street car. Thank you guys. I am open to different engine options, my thinking was just go 632 and keep revs down. Make it last longer without having 6k into the heads.
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post #7 of 66 (permalink) Old Oct 20th, 18, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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Also cabin noise is not an issue. More looking for a stock look. From the outside. But sub 10 performance. Also yearly mileage would likely be 3k. Just basically trying something different. I’ve owned this car a long time and have grown to like it more every year. All original. And beats the hell out of trying to wiggle out of a full cage back half car when I pull up to a destination. Trying to just keep a very basic sleeper look. With some big performance. Is this possible with a 16000 budget?
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post #8 of 66 (permalink) Old Oct 20th, 18, 12:03 PM
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Re: 71malibu engine broke need advice on moving forward

I donít want to get too elaborate with a response but IMO a full tilt 632 ahould get you beyond 10.0. Iíd compromise on max horsepower to get the rest of the setup matched and correct. I hope you donít ignore the need for a good cage. The life you save may be your own. Bottom line, think total package.
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People donít like to have to think in high resolution. Jordan Peterson. Thatís why we are forced in to so many binary choices.
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post #9 of 66 (permalink) Old Oct 20th, 18, 12:05 PM
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Re: 71malibu engine broke need advice on moving forward

I'd do a 540, all aluminum engine, with bad ass parts.

If you lend someone $20, and never see that person again, it was probably worth it.
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post #10 of 66 (permalink) Old Oct 20th, 18, 12:09 PM
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Pretty sure you’re cutting the front frame for pan clearance to stuff in the 632. Don’t forget the $1600 headers and possibly relocating your steering shaft.

A 9.8 deck height is much less expensive. Think 532 (4.0” stroke) or more if you want more stroke. If you want to drive it, I’d consider a reasonably stroked big block with a ProCharger.

Most 9.90 cars are going to be nearly dedicated race-only rigs if N/A. Supercharged or turbo would make it more liveable.

Either way, you’re going to need power and chassis.

Proving every day hindsight is 20/20.
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post #11 of 66 (permalink) Old Oct 20th, 18, 5:32 PM
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Re: 71malibu engine broke need advice on moving forward

A Mark Jones Engine VortecPro - Racing & Machine - Homepage
Either the 467 620hp & 580tq 10.2 compression
or the 496 650hp & 660tq 9.7 compression

And I think you need to look at a Higher Stall Converter for your TH400, say a 2,500 to a 3,500

A S60 Rearend from Strange with Helical Gears/True Trac/Worm Like Gears
https://www.strangeengineering.net/p...g-mounts.html/

And Suspension Parts from UMI Perf
1968-1972 GM A-Body Suspension
I have their Front Tubular Control Arms with Moroso Trick Springs and Comp Eng 3Ways
Also their Rear Lower Control Arms and Upper Adj CAs with Comp Eng 3Ways

Drive 50 Miles to the Track on Street Tires, change to the Track Tires, Race all day then Drive Home on the Street Tires

Since Racing from the 80s I have only ever had to have a Car Towed Home once
and it was because of a Blown Water Pump Seal
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67 Chevelle Malibu SS Cdn
Born 283 / PG / A51
468/TH400 2,500 stall/ S60 3.70 Gs
Prev Best on M/T ET S/S #3454 street Tires/Dress 2018/05/20
60' = 1.664
1/8 = 7.532 et / 91 mph
1/4 = 11.814 et / 115 mph
NEW Best with 3,500+ Stall TC 2019/06/23
60' = 1.561
1/8 = 7.411 et / 90.18 mph
1/4 = ??.??? et / ??? mph


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post #12 of 66 (permalink) Old Oct 20th, 18, 5:46 PM
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Re: 71malibu engine broke need advice on moving forward

I would stick to a short deck engine and something with 4.25 stroke. Unless you are going to fit a good oil pan in there, the engine will not properly oil itself. A moroso 20403 type pan is not the answer.
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post #13 of 66 (permalink) Old Oct 20th, 18, 6:07 PM
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Re: 71malibu engine broke need advice on moving forward

Even the most lenient track will throw you out as soon as you run 9ís or 135mph without a cage. Itís in the best interests of both you and them.

Earlier this year, someone locally with a fully caged bracket car wearing all required safety gear was killed instantly when his car turned into the wall at the finish line, his car was running mid-10ís at 122mph. Itís more than foolish to think about doing this with a 50 year old street car.

Since you already have a race car, why this plan for this car?

Steve R
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post #14 of 66 (permalink) Old Oct 20th, 18, 7:27 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply’s guys. The 632 I’m looking at from blueprint is advertised at 800 and something hp. Realistically I’d probably get 6-650 to the ground. I’m worried about not having enough hp with a 496 to get to 10.00 without having to turn it high rpm. The 454 with blower under the hood that was in it was 591 at the wheels. Had to mix race gas and pump to push off detonation. I’d like an engine with a warranty simply because this is my 3rd one in the car, so far I’m striking out with reputable builders/people. If someone made a low deck that would put me at 10 with a warranty id be open to that. Today I ordered 3:73 gears and axles. C clip eliminators. Posi. I also have a spool if it becomes necessary. If my goal is doable with adjustable rear uppers and lowers I’d rather that than a ladder bar set up. I’m just trying to get this sorted out fairly quickly. Old engine is out, builder wants to know if I’m rebuilding or not. Just looking for some good advice. On a sensible package. The no cage or Lexan, no tubbed rear or chassis is because I already have that in a nova. It’s fun to drive but all of the required equipment makes street a real Chore. As does running c16. Basically just want a 10.00 sleeper. Would my 177 blower be of any use to me in attaining my goal?
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post #15 of 66 (permalink) Old Oct 20th, 18, 7:28 PM Thread Starter
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