How can I fix this?
Yo, dudes. Here’s the scoop. My driver’s side of my ’71 Chevelle is 1”, front-to-back, higher than my passenger side. Before everyone gets on me about “A-Body Sag” or the “Chevelle-lean”. I know, I’ve heard, and I’ve read every post about it and all the recommended fixes. None apply. My issue seems to stem from the right, front horn. This is a big block car and had the notorious crack by the passenger side firewall/frame horn behind the control arm. Problem is that it was welded with the weight of the car on it and it is causing the issue. If I jack up on the front passenger torque box about 1/2”, the car levels out perfectly. The frame sits even all around, the body is even all around, the front frame horns are even, and the upper control arm mounting points are dead level, but the problem is now the front passenger tire is ˝” off the ground. I was thinking I could just cut three sides of the frame horn (left, right, and bottom) while jacked up and lower the horn until the tire is on the ground and weld it up, but then the front horns won’t be level anymore.
Is there a way to go about leveling out the “notorious” big block frame horn crack without taking the frame to a shop? I don’t want to take the frame to a shop because it will cost more in time and money than its worth. Many shops scoff and grumble when I let them know is an old muscle car.
Things I’ve done to rule out other potential issues:
- Swapped and clocked springs (front and rear).
- New front upper/lower control arms (BMR). Don’t start with me about UMI. I know they have a fantastic product. Wasn’t in the budget.
- Rebuilt factory rear control arms with MOOG bushings
- No suspension bushings, front or rear, are binding. Suspension moves very freely and no bolts are torqued
- All body bushings are new, correct, torqued down.
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