How can I fix this? - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old May 12th, 20, 7:04 PM Thread Starter
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Ben
 
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How can I fix this?

Yo, dudes. Here’s the scoop. My driver’s side of my ’71 Chevelle is 1”, front-to-back, higher than my passenger side. Before everyone gets on me about “A-Body Sag” or the “Chevelle-lean”. I know, I’ve heard, and I’ve read every post about it and all the recommended fixes. None apply. My issue seems to stem from the right, front horn. This is a big block car and had the notorious crack by the passenger side firewall/frame horn behind the control arm. Problem is that it was welded with the weight of the car on it and it is causing the issue. If I jack up on the front passenger torque box about 1/2”, the car levels out perfectly. The frame sits even all around, the body is even all around, the front frame horns are even, and the upper control arm mounting points are dead level, but the problem is now the front passenger tire is ½” off the ground. I was thinking I could just cut three sides of the frame horn (left, right, and bottom) while jacked up and lower the horn until the tire is on the ground and weld it up, but then the front horns won’t be level anymore.

Is there a way to go about leveling out the “notorious” big block frame horn crack without taking the frame to a shop? I don’t want to take the frame to a shop because it will cost more in time and money than its worth. Many shops scoff and grumble when I let them know is an old muscle car.

Things I’ve done to rule out other potential issues:
- Swapped and clocked springs (front and rear).
- New front upper/lower control arms (BMR). Don’t start with me about UMI. I know they have a fantastic product. Wasn’t in the budget.
- Rebuilt factory rear control arms with MOOG bushings
- No suspension bushings, front or rear, are binding. Suspension moves very freely and no bolts are torqued
- All body bushings are new, correct, torqued down.


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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old May 13th, 20, 12:17 AM
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steve
 
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Re: How can I fix this?

whats a "front passenger torque box" ?
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old May 13th, 20, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
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Ben
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64tempestwagon View Post
whats a "front passenger torque box" ?
I’m referring to the area of the frame under the firewall. Near where the body bushing is.


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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old May 13th, 20, 8:07 AM
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Re: How can I fix this?

Unless you have the equipment, you need a good old fashion frame shop. If it is as you say, it must be causing drivability issues or have a really whacked out alignment.

I don’t like being manipulated!
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old May 13th, 20, 9:27 AM
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Re: How can I fix this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBlockPyro View Post
This is a big block car and had the notorious crack by the passenger side firewall/frame horn behind the control arm. Problem is that it was welded with the weight of the car on it and it is causing the issue.
seems you know where the problem is.as alan mentioned a body/frame shop is gonna be your solution,they will have to try to tweek the frame.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old May 13th, 20, 12:54 PM
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Re: How can I fix this?

No torque boxes on full frame cars,that is a uni body term.My 69 SS396 had a small crack in the frame just behind the right front frame corner.
Did you replace your front springs yourself ?

John
71 El Camino SS
406 SBC M21 3.31 12 bolt
"Quality is always remembered,long after the price is forgotten"
"I would rather have questions I can't answer than have answers I can't question" :R.Feynman
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 20, 11:22 PM
 
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I would check the front spring pockets welded in the frame rails by gm. I replaced and upgraded everything with UMI, my frame was square, and drivers front still sat lower than passenger side. My spring pockets were welded at different depths in the frame. My Solution is to either cut one pocket loose and reweld or shim spring. (Umi has shims)
Good luck, Noah
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old May 23rd, 20, 9:10 AM
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Re: How can I fix this?

I would replace the frame.

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