Major PITA But its Working - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 22nd, 20, 7:43 PM Thread Starter
rkd
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Ron
 
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Major PITA But its Working

Non Chevelle, but I am repairing the windshield mounting flange on my 82 Mustang. This is the most aggravating job I have done in years. I have 30 hrs in this so far. But a change to 024 wire helped. Cut, fit patch, weld, grind, weld, grind.

Bodywork guys, please help....
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 23rd, 20, 12:28 PM
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Re: Major PITA But its Working

I might find myself in this very position.

I was welding some pinholes close to the bottom of my rear window and it started to leak. My guess is the surrounding area got to hot and ruined the seal.

I am going to remove the window and clean up the area..

Did you build the metal back up with the wire or did you install sheet metal?

Also, how do you know that your repair will seal a new window?

Lastly, did you prime and paint the repair? I was thinking of using an epoxy primer but my concern is a high build primer messing with the seal surface.

From what I can see your repair looks like it is coming along nicely.

Thanks!
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 23rd, 20, 1:14 PM
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Re: Major PITA But its Working

Quote:
Originally Posted by mromaus View Post
I might find myself in this very position.

I was welding some pinholes close to the bottom of my rear window and it started to leak. My guess is the surrounding area got to hot and ruined the seal.

I am going to remove the window and clean up the area..

Did you build the metal back up with the wire or did you install sheet metal?

Also, how do you know that your repair will seal a new window?

Lastly, did you prime and paint the repair? I was thinking of using an epoxy primer but my concern is a high build primer messing with the seal surface.

From what I can see your repair looks like it is coming along nicely.

Thanks!
Use replacement pieces, either purchased or fabricated. Using weld wire to build up an area is an exercise in futility if you're trying to fill pinholes. The surrounding metal is always thin and blows away.
As long as the repair is smooth there shouldn't be any issue with sealing apart from the installer's skill.
The repaired area needs to be hit with epoxy primer. Painting the area or using a high build primer isn't worth it, as installers will knock it down to bare metal and use their primer the ensure adhesion. Your seal/adhesion is only as strong as the weakest layer that it sits on.

1971 Monte Carlo
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 23rd, 20, 1:17 PM
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Cody
 
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Re: Major PITA But its Working

Quote:
Originally Posted by rkd View Post
Non Chevelle, but I am repairing the windshield mounting flange on my 82 Mustang. This is the most aggravating job I have done in years. I have 30 hrs in this so far. But a change to 024 wire helped. Cut, fit patch, weld, grind, weld, grind.

Bodywork guys, please help....
Are you looking for help on anything specifically?
Was there any thought of using donor pieces from another car?

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 23rd, 20, 1:20 PM
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Marco
 
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Re: Major PITA But its Working

That's very good to know.

It looks to me like the repair by RDK is coming along nicely.

I wouldn't use any type of filler there, I'm thinking all that needs to be done is closing up those pins holes that are left.

I'm hoping that my mounting surface is not as bad as that one.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 23rd, 20, 1:20 PM Thread Starter
rkd
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Ron
 
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Re: Major PITA But its Working

Quote:
Originally Posted by mromaus View Post
I might find myself in this very position.

I was welding some pinholes close to the bottom of my rear window and it started to leak. My guess is the surrounding area got to hot and ruined the seal.

I am going to remove the window and clean up the area..

Did you build the metal back up with the wire or did you install sheet metal?

Also, how do you know that your repair will seal a new window?

Lastly, did you prime and paint the repair? I was thinking of using an epoxy primer but my concern is a high build primer messing with the seal surface.

From what I can see your repair looks like it is coming along nicely.
Thanks!



I had the window removed by a glass guy. None of them would guarantee they could remove and reinstall without breaking it, and it broke. I am using Transtar Autobodies Technologies 2n1 Primer in gray as recommended by the local Car Quest. About $30 per can, so I hope it works.

I am adding filler pieces everywhere possible, have had to use a couple of 3/8 x 1/4 in to keep the burn through under control. I went from 030 to 024 wire which helped.

Have globbed some weld over a few pinholes, but I am leaving several because they burn back and I am going to plug with filler. I shaped one corner piece with the point of my welding hammer and a soggy pc of plywood as a shot bag...

This is a hot rod, not a show car.

The flange was not super smooth when the windshield came out, so I thing the adhesive takes up the slack.

Practice for the Chevelle.

66 Malibu Coupe, home rebuilt 350. Took me 39 years to get her!
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 23rd, 20, 2:28 PM
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Re: Major PITA But its Working

The pin holes that I sealed up had the issue of burn through.

Supposedly using copper pipe as a heat sync helps, but in my case I don't have the room.

My process has been to push out as much of the thin metal as possible with a screw driver and a hammer then letting the welder burn out a little more. When it looked like I was getting to some solid material, I would dab a bead on both sides start a bridge then puddle it up.

Once it seems to be holding, I grind smooth, then bondo.

I will be using SPI epoxy primer. I have some experience with it.

They make cheap tools to take out the windshield but I think I am better off calling somebody for this.

How hard is it to get replacement glass? Is it expensive compared to a newer car?
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 20, 7:56 PM Thread Starter
rkd
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Re: Major PITA But its Working

Got the top and pass side done, and started across the cowl. Its slow going because I have to do both the windshield and the cowl.

The cowl top is not reproed, a good one is available for $250 plus shipping. There is a U tube by Junkyarddog on doing this. It would be the way to go, but I did not think I wanted to pull the fenders and such. Oh well.....

More phots coming.

66 Malibu Coupe, home rebuilt 350. Took me 39 years to get her!
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 10th, 20, 7:49 PM
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Re: Major PITA But its Working

Three words.
Lancaster shrinker/stretcher. Real ones can be had for 250-300
You could also look for something called a hammer form.

Coming from experience from being in the industry, you might want to hold off on that mystery primer.

Every OE and adhesive manufacture that I can think of say EPOXY PRIMER ONLY on the windshield flange. Body filler and urethane primer are NOT to be used on the flange where the adhesive will be.

Currently working on How to videos and replacement sheetmetal panels

1970 chevelle getting Sliced and Diced Anything But STOCK
1970 chevelle SS455 not a typo its a BUICK BABY
1949 and 1972 chevy trucks
Pictures of my work

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 14th, 20, 9:47 PM Thread Starter
rkd
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Re: Major PITA But its Working

Thanks. I plan to clean and wire wheel the flange before the windshield goes on, so I could reclean and spray with epoxy if needed.

Got to the bottom pass side, and finished the big rusty area toward the center in the photo, today.

Thinking about an Eastwood stretcher/shrinker set but so far, wet plywood, a vise, some hammers and a 1/8 rod have helped with the shaping.
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66 Malibu Coupe, home rebuilt 350. Took me 39 years to get her!
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 14th, 20, 10:59 PM
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Re: Major PITA But its Working

Quote:
Originally Posted by sevt_chevelle View Post
Three words.
Lancaster shrinker/stretcher. Real ones can be had for 250-300
You could also look for something called a hammer form.

Coming from experience from being in the industry, you might want to hold off on that mystery primer.

Every OE and adhesive manufacture that I can think of say EPOXY PRIMER ONLY on the windshield flange. Body filler and urethane primer are NOT to be used on the flange where the adhesive will be.
two words. Follow this ^^^^^^^^

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 15th, 20, 1:09 PM Thread Starter
rkd
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Re: Major PITA But its Working

Technova, on the Lancaster website, it says Eastwood is a distributor, are the Eastwood units just rebranded?

Probably would like this, as I will need to do this for the Chevelle in a year or so.

66 Malibu Coupe, home rebuilt 350. Took me 39 years to get her!
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 15th, 20, 5:56 PM
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Re: Major PITA But its Working

Quote:
Originally Posted by rkd View Post
Technova, on the Lancaster website, it says Eastwood is a distributor, are the Eastwood units just rebranded?

Probably would like this, as I will need to do this for the Chevelle in a year or so.
Eastwood is one of the last places I would buy stuff from.
The units from Eastwoods are 160, real lancasters on other sites are now rovering in 350 range. In the video on the eastwood site you can clearly see they are made in China. Real lancasters are made in the USA and work. Also, real lancasters are stamped LANCASTER into the lower half of the frame to combat cheap knock offs.

Cant speak for the knockoffs that eastwoods sells, but the ones at Horror Fright Fing suck. The geometry in the jaws is completely wrong.

Tinmantech has the combo unit for sell at 340, or you could buy one body and two jaws sets for 270.

Currently working on How to videos and replacement sheetmetal panels

1970 chevelle getting Sliced and Diced Anything But STOCK
1970 chevelle SS455 not a typo its a BUICK BABY
1949 and 1972 chevy trucks
Pictures of my work

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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 15th, 20, 9:41 PM Thread Starter
rkd
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Re: Major PITA But its Working

Thanks, these are getting on the list.

Did a couple more places yesterday and today.
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66 Malibu Coupe, home rebuilt 350. Took me 39 years to get her!
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 15th, 20, 10:36 PM
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I bought the Eastwood shrinker/stretcher a few years ago and it’s worked really well for my needs. I had similar repairs on the windshield area.
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