Replacing 1969 trunk pan - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Feb 5th, 20, 7:54 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2019
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Replacing 1969 trunk pan

Getting ready to start on replacing the trunk pan in my '69 hardtop. I've replaced the body bushings and am about ready to start cutting. I would like to know a little more before I make a costly mistake though. I have the OPGI 7 piece kit.

I've watched a few videos on cutting it out. A few show the trunk braced, others do not. Is it necessary to brace the trunk to do this? If so what would be the best way to do so? If it matters, the deck filler panel is the next piece getting replaced and the package tray is rusted out directly underneath it. The rest of the package tray doesn't look too bad though.

The left trunk pan brace I'm not sure about, it may need replacement but I won't know til I cut the pan out. What do I need to do to replace the brace if I have to?

Anything I need to watch for while doing this? Honestly I'm a little intimidated by this part of the project. Patching the floor pan was simple and I know I can do the work but I can easily see something going wrong and causing a big, expensive problem. The trunk needs the most repair, between the trunk pan, package tray, deck filler panel, the right wheel well at the trunk pan, and possibly the drop offs given the holes in the lower quarters.

Cameron
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Feb 5th, 20, 8:25 PM
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Bruce
 
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Re: Replacing 1969 trunk pan

How many helpers do you have lined up? How much experience do you have that directly relates to this huge project? What's your timeline to actually do the job, a week end or a year?

I gotta tell you that under the most usual circumstances I'd brace it. Pick a video that looks like good, well thought out bracing.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Feb 5th, 20, 8:49 PM
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Re: Replacing 1969 trunk pan

I'm going to give you my honest opinion having been involved with a trunk pan replacement in multiple pieces and one-piece replacement: the final product is VASTLY better as a one-piece replacement. It may look like more work up front, but it's really not in the end. It requires patience and the realization that it's not a weekend project for a first-timer.

Getting the seven-piece replacement all lined up and then looking remotely decent in the end is extremely frustrating, and the end result looks noticeably inferior to the one-piece if you don't' do this stuff for a living - and I don't! The one-piece has all the braces pre-assembled and obviously you don't' have weld seems running everywhere that often require enormous effort and patience to get looking half invisible.

The full truth of it is, you'll likely realize once you get the trunk cut out, the surrounding metal may very well need replacement also. Whatever you decide, when it comes to floor and trunk pans, bracing is very important. Here's a picture of my 71, which ended up going from " we can get away with patch panels" to "new floor pan, trunk pan, trunk extensions, all inner & outer wheel wells, seat divider, package tray, and one quarter panel".

Don't want to rain on your hopes, but I wanted to give you an honest opinion before you embark on the journey. Certainly, you can just do the trunk now and the other stuff later. Obviously it's more total work that way, but that may be what one's finances dictate.

Whatever you do, hit up Youtube and all the old posts here. There's a wealth of information. The seven-piece kit is doable, but looking back I'll never go that route again after doing a one-piece. I would definitely research long and hard at both the seven-piece installation and the full trunk installation before committing one way or the other. You may find it's worth the expense of not using the seven-piece and paying for a one-piece.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Feb 5th, 20, 9:08 PM
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Re: Replacing 1969 trunk pan

I would suggest a 1 piece pan a lot easier to install here is my 1969 Chevelle. Just lift the back end off the frame and slide it in. No braces were used.

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Feb 5th, 20, 9:46 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Replacing 1969 trunk pan

Quote:
Originally Posted by NickeyChevelle View Post
How many helpers do you have lined up? How much experience do you have that directly relates to this huge project? What's your timeline to actually do the job, a week end or a year?

I gotta tell you that under the most usual circumstances I'd brace it. Pick a video that looks like good, well thought out bracing.
I have one dedicated helper and can easily get a second most of the time. I don't have a set time line. Of course I want it done ASAP but it will be a semi-show car so I'm taking my time to do it right. Additionally my dedicated helper is my dad who is undergoing chemo so there are times we just can't work on it. I have some experience welding and just finished patching the floor pan.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronze68 View Post
I'm going to give you my honest opinion having been involved with a trunk pan replacement in multiple pieces and one-piece replacement: the final product is VASTLY better as a one-piece replacement. It may look like more work up front, but it's really not in the end. It requires patience and the realization that it's not a weekend project for a first-timer.

Getting the seven-piece replacement all lined up and then looking remotely decent in the end is extremely frustrating, and the end result looks noticeably inferior to the one-piece if you don't' do this stuff for a living - and I don't! The one-piece has all the braces pre-assembled and obviously you don't' have weld seems running everywhere that often require enormous effort and patience to get looking half invisible.

The full truth of it is, you'll likely realize once you get the trunk cut out, the surrounding metal may very well need replacement also. Whatever you decide, when it comes to floor and trunk pans, bracing is very important. Here's a picture of my 71, which ended up going from " we can get away with patch panels" to "new floor pan, trunk pan, trunk extensions, all inner & outer wheel wells, seat divider, package tray, and one quarter panel".

Don't want to rain on your hopes, but I wanted to give you an honest opinion before you embark on the journey. Certainly, you can just do the trunk now and the other stuff later. Obviously it's more total work that way, but that may be what one's finances dictate.

Whatever you do, hit up Youtube and all the old posts here. There's a wealth of information. The seven-piece kit is doable, but looking back I'll never go that route again after doing a one-piece. I would definitely research long and hard at both the seven-piece installation and the full trunk installation before committing one way or the other. You may find it's worth the expense of not using the seven-piece and paying for a one-piece.
I appreciate the honest opinion. I bought the 7 piece since the holes were concentrated at the back of the tub. I could cut the patches I need and fit them through the trunk opening and still had the braces on hand just in case. It seemed the one piece would be more work than it was worth. The more I cleaned the trunk the more holes appeared. Now the lower tub looks like Swiss cheese. I think the one piece would have been the better option now but since I have the 7 piece I'll try that first. I'm not that concerned about the appearance of the welds. I can dress them and I plan to put a carpet in the trunk anyway so that would help hide them. I appreciate the pictures, I think they'll be helpful

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad1969 View Post
I would suggest a 1 piece pan a lot easier to install here is my 1969 Chevelle. Just lift the back end off the frame and slide it in. No braces were used.

Attachment 615738
I may do that yet but since I have the 7 piece on hand I'm going to try that first. I haven't been impressed with some of the stuff from OPGI though. How high do you have to lift the body to slide it in? I'm guessing after you slide it in you secure it to the body bushings then lower the body onto it and weld, right?

Cameron
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Feb 5th, 20, 10:00 PM
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Re: Replacing 1969 trunk pan

Didn't lift the body too high a foot maybe? Yes once the pan is in bolt it to the frame and lower the body line it up, then plug weld. little awkward but got it in with no help.
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