Questions. '66 rear window filler/tulip panel - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Jun 14th, 19, 1:17 AM Thread Starter
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Questions. '66 rear window filler/tulip panel

Finally pulled out my rear glass, and sure enough, its going to need some patching. Some pitting along the bottom 1/2" of the glass setting area, and 3 small holes; one about 3/16" diameter, and the others about 1/8" diameter. But the exterior is solid, completely, as well as the top 3/4"+/_ of the channel edge, above the trim studs...

Also about 6" length of heavy pitting on the interior, the smooth strip right inside the glass, where the package tray slides under...

Rather then try to fab my own patches, I figured I'd just buy the entire panel, and then just cut our the front section with the channel and the interior strip...



I was checking Summit, and its about $99 for the AMD panel (AMD-650-3466), and about $69 for Goodmark (GMK-4031-710-66)Ö I think I read somewhere that the AMD has trim studs already installed, but I can't find any info on the Goodmark part. AMD pictures actually look like the studs are visible near both ends...

Anyone have any experience or comments regarding these two vendors, specifically for this panel? I know some companies use the same supplier, just wondering if I should spend the extra $30 for the AMD piece?

I used AMD for the cowl/windshield piece, but I also picked up a Sherman, and could not see a difference...


Even though my studs are in solid metal, I am not sure I can cleanly cut around them, and then weld and grind for the patch without grinding out the studs... so I am anticipating replacing the studs...

Regarding those trim studs, anyone ever use the screw-in or the pop-rivet studs? I see them from Belden Speed, as well as AMK (IIRC).


There is one other small hole at the quarter sail panel ( bottom of the curve, just outside the filler panel), and I figure I'll patch that with a patch from Belden Speed...


the exterior panel and the trunk weatherstripping channel are in great shape, so I have no plans to R&R the entire panel...

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Jun 14th, 19, 1:57 AM
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Re: Questions. '66 rear window filler/tulip panel

I did this panel on a 66 Chevelle last year. First one I got from OPGI and was not happy with the fit so I returned it and bought one from AMD. Really nice part, Crisp and sharp body lines and heavy gauge metal with the welded trim studs. If you use the screw in studs , make sure to use some kind of sealer on the threads

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old Jun 14th, 19, 2:04 AM
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Re: Questions. '66 rear window filler/tulip panel

I'd advise against the screw in studs. Spend the money for the welded studs or just screw your clips to the panel and seal the screws. No need for studs if you go that route.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old Jun 14th, 19, 1:28 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Questions. '66 rear window filler/tulip panel

Quote:
Originally Posted by cheveslakr View Post
I'd advise against the screw in studs. Spend the money for the welded studs or just screw your clips to the panel and seal the screws. No need for studs if you go that route.
Thanks, I don't know why I didn't think of doing that...

If I don't get the AMD panel...

Once you go RAT, you never go back...
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Jun 16th, 19, 1:31 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Questions. '66 rear window filler/tulip panel

Well,
I ordered the panel yesterday afternoon from Summit (about 5:30 pm). I had a few other items, so I got the "spend $99 get Free Shipping"... The order arrived this afternoon!


Looks like a nice piece, BUT, I will be returning it... ALL the trim studs were located approximately 1/8" higher than the original on my car...

Not sure if its a fluke, and ask for a replacement?


Dimensions in the channel otherwise are correct...



Here are some pictures after I spent some time with a drill/wire-wheel...
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Jun 16th, 19, 8:05 AM
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Re: Questions. '66 rear window filler/tulip panel

I'd just replace the entire panel. Media blasting is the proper procedure and would reveal the extent of the corrosion. I used an AMD panel on a customer's car last year and it was fine, trim studs were located properly. I rejected a CHL panel because it was it fit terribly. I install trim studs with my Unispotter. Consistency in repro panels is not to be expected in this business.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Jun 16th, 19, 8:48 AM
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Re: Questions. '66 rear window filler/tulip panel

Id be more concerned about the fitment of the panel then location of trim studs.

What I use.
UNI-1005 Uni-Spotter Molding rivet Tip ? H&S Autoshot

This makes it easier.
http://hsautoshot.com/product/uni-1045-eliminator-side-by-side-kit-1041-1044

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Jun 17th, 19, 4:12 PM
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Re: Questions. '66 rear window filler/tulip panel

Dont know if this will help...

Sent from my SM-T817V using Tapatalk

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Jun 17th, 19, 9:06 PM
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Re: Questions. '66 rear window filler/tulip panel

Quote:
Originally Posted by 70GS455 View Post
Dont know if this will help...

Sent from my SM-T817V using Tapatalk
Decades in the business and it easier to replace the entire panel. The OP's channel is toast. Small, minimally invasive sections that are rusted I fab on the brake and shrinker/stretcher.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Jun 17th, 19, 9:12 PM
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Re: Questions. '66 rear window filler/tulip panel

Tony, I recommend replacing the entire panel. The structure underneath that panel will be very rusty and needs to be blasted and epoxy primed. BTDT.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old Today, 7:21 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Questions. '66 rear window filler/tulip panel

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Originally Posted by pnugene View Post
Tony, I recommend replacing the entire panel. The structure underneath that panel will be very rusty and needs to be blasted and epoxy primed. BTDT.
Okay guys...

So walk me through this please.

I know there are spot welds underneath, where those little flaps are. So I need to drill out those spot welds.

It looks like it may be brazed(?) in the window channel, at the ends.

other spot welds under the trunk lid, but are they "in" the weatherstripping channel? or just outside?

Remove the trunk lid for access...

Anyone have any pictures or link for the 66/67 panel replacement?


blast and epoxy the support panel underneath.

Regarding the underside of the NEW AMD panel, should I epoxy that? scuff or strip before epoxy?

I will be picking up one of those Belden Speed side channels. I do not have a brake, etc to fab my own.


I will be returning this AMD panel for another AMD, BUT, assuming the next panel also has the trim studs off, what would be the suggestion for home/amateur repair for the trim studs? Belden and AMK Products sell trim stud "screws", or Belden sells "pop-rivet" ones. OR, should I just drill and mount the trim clips using SMS/screws? I will be sealing the screws, but at this point, the car will probably be garaged for the rest of its life anyway (or the rest of mine at least), so I am not really concerned about significant leaks occurring around those "studs"... I am also thinking I could spray more epoxy or maybe base coat AFTER I have the clips installed to help seal as well before the glass goes in)...



Any suggestions on a spot-weld cutter?

I have one of the Blair with the replaceable cutters, but I noticed it had a tendancy to shear the teeth off... Is it worth getting a nicer one? mine uses these replacements;
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/brc-13214

Remember, that this may be the only car I'd ever do, not a pro where I will recoup the investment on several jobs.

I'll remove the trunk lid for access, but is it necessary to remove the hinges? They are only attached to the inner panel, right?

Thanks

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old Today, 8:53 PM
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Re: Questions. '66 rear window filler/tulip panel

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1966_L78 View Post
Okay guys...

So walk me through this please.

I know there are spot welds underneath, where those little flaps are. So I need to drill out those spot welds.

It looks like it may be brazed(?) in the window channel, at the ends. Correct

other spot welds under the trunk lid, but are they "in" the weatherstripping channel? or just outside? Remove the weatherstrip rubber and drill from the topside

Remove the trunk lid for access... Yep

Anyone have any pictures or link for the 66/67 panel replacement?


blast and epoxy the support panel underneath. Yep

Regarding the underside of the NEW AMD panel, should I epoxy that? scuff or strip before epoxy? I would

I will be picking up one of those Belden Speed side channels. I do not have a brake, etc to fab my own.


I will be returning this AMD panel for another AMD, BUT, assuming the next panel also has the trim studs off, what would be the suggestion for home/amateur repair for the trim studs? Belden and AMK Products sell trim stud "screws", or Belden sells "pop-rivet" ones. OR, should I just drill and mount the trim clips using SMS/screws? I will be sealing the screws, but at this point, the car will probably be garaged for the rest of its life anyway (or the rest of mine at least), so I am not really concerned about significant leaks occurring around those "studs"... I am also thinking I could spray more epoxy or maybe base coat AFTER I have the clips installed to help seal as well before the glass goes in)...The panel I bought had the studs...in the correct locations. I used the screw studs in my windshield channel, they work ok.



Any suggestions on a spot-weld cutter?

I have one of the Blair with the replaceable cutters, but I noticed it had a tendancy to shear the teeth off... Is it worth getting a nicer one? mine uses these replacements;
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/brc-13214 I cheeped out and used a cutoff wheel and air chisel.

Remember, that this may be the only car I'd ever do, not a pro where I will recoup the investment on several jobs.

I'll remove the trunk lid for access, but is it necessary to remove the hinges? They are only attached to the inner panel, right? No need to remove hinges. You may need to use a block of wood to keep them out of your way.

Thanks
Take your time and be patient, it's not that difficult, just time consuming.

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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old Today, 10:57 PM
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Re: Questions. '66 rear window filler/tulip panel

I can sum up those Blair hole saw bits in one word JUNK

Scroll through this post to see what I use.
https://www.chevelles.com/forums/12-...on-repair.html

I hate making sparks, I prefer to drill, I would go with Blair, wivco then kent as posted above in link. You should NOT have the need to use an air chisel, in the hands of someone whom doesn't know how to use it or what bits to use it can and will destroy the underlying panel.

The purpose is to only drill through the top layer of metal, there is NO need for pilot holes that go all the way through or drilling half way into the layer underneath.

I would must certainly blast and epoxy prime, I would also spray, brush whatever means possible apply epoxy on the backside of the welded seems once you are done welding.

Water leaks no matter how big or small will lead to rust. If the trim studs are in the wrong place, who cares cut them off and replace them in the proper spot with new weld on ones.

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