I've been spending a lot of time trying to get research done on primer and paint, so I need to know if I'm off on the right foot here when I begin doing the body work of my Chevelle. I'm trying to understand what are the better products to use and how to use them. I was only have 2 paint suppliers near me and one was sherwin, which I found out may not be the best products to use, but I decided to get one of their cheaper 2K primer surfacers so I can get some practice. The other place was a PPG dealer, and I picked up some DP50LF epoxy primer with the DP402LF catalyst. I already got one of my fender extensions sandblasted and painted with the DPLF. It seems to have painted on real nicely, but after a week I already managed to get some of it scratched off after fitting it back on the fender. I've read from old posts that the DP402LF tends to have problems and that the DP401LF is better to use. I didn't expect it to rub off that easily - did I just not wait long enough before handling it, or is it really just the catalyst?
Anyway, I've also had been really scratching my head on the order of operations when it comes to body work and epoxy. I've done body work on my truck over a decade ago when I still had it, and as far as I knew, bondo was designed to go onto bare metal. However after doing my research lately, it seems that doing filler over epoxy is the way to do it? Here is what I was able to come up with, so I'd definitely like to hear some input:
- DA 80 grit
- Clean (Wax and grease remover)
- DP50LF with DP401LF or DP402LF
- 4 - 6 until level
- PPG K36 as surfacer (and finish1 2K surfacer from sherwin since I already have it)
- 8 - 10 until level, or go back to 4 if needed
- PPG K36 as sealer (with tint perhaps? Plan on doing dark blue basecoat.....eventually)
The products I used above is just from what I got from research so far, so I really don't know what is better or whatever. I tend to hear a lot about SPi so how does that compare to the PPG products? I certainly would like to pay a bit less than what PPG sells for lol. Anyway, so the questions in general are:
- Is DP401LF better to use than DP402LF? (Besides the induction time/pot life) Also I've seen this on a post, but not from the guy behind the counter, but the shelf-life after opening is really only 2 weeks?
- Should filler go on before or after epoxy?
- If the filler goes on after epoxy, how does block sanding work with the epoxy? From my understanding is that epoxy cannot be sanded and gums up the paper. I'd imagine it would be difficult to feather out the filler
- Keep ecoat on? Just needs scuff if so? According to the tech sheet, DP401LP is required and says unsanded ecoat. I've got ecoat that it over 15 years old, so I'm not sure how to feel about the unsanded ecoat underneath. Does it hurt to scuff it?
- Does brand matter for surfacer? I'd like to just use the sherwin quart I have just so I can at least make it worth the money. I figure most of it would just block off anyway.
- Is it better to invest in other brands? What kind of experiences have you all had with products that you used?
That's pretty much the concern at the moment, and I certainly appreciate any input! I've got a lot of work ahead of me and would only like to do it once, lol.