wet sanding procedure - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 5th, 18, 1:25 PM Thread Starter
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wet sanding procedure

Hi Guys, I just finsihed painting my 71 el camino and now after 10 days I am starting to wet sand. I have not painting a whole vehicle in 30 years and never built one as nice as this and i want that depth look into the paint.I am gonna use 1000 to start, then 1500, then 2500. Now I think I understand that each time i sand I sand in a differant direction from previous grit. So when I am done w/ 1000 i was gonna wipe down whole vehicle then start sanding 1500 and then 2500.
when you first sand the vehicle you can see want your doing by eliminating all shinning spots and sanding clear flat. Question: How can you tell in follow-up grits where your at?
Tony
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 5th, 18, 1:26 PM
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Re: wet sanding procedure

In for details.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 5th, 18, 2:14 PM
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Re: wet sanding procedure

Quote:
Originally Posted by urleycay View Post
Hi Guys, I just finsihed painting my 71 el camino and now after 10 days I am starting to wet sand. I have not painting a whole vehicle in 30 years and never built one as nice as this and i want that depth look into the paint.I am gonna use 1000 to start, then 1500, then 2500. Now I think I understand that each time i sand I sand in a differant direction from previous grit. So when I am done w/ 1000 i was gonna wipe down whole vehicle then start sanding 1500 and then 2500.
when you first sand the vehicle you can see want your doing by eliminating all shinning spots and sanding clear flat. Question: How can you tell in follow-up grits where your at?
Tony

Once you knock down the shiney spots, you are where you need to be. After that just lightly use progressively finer grit until you are ready to cut and buff.

Couple of junkers and a few clunkers.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 5th, 18, 6:21 PM Thread Starter
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Re: wet sanding procedure

I don't get this
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 5th, 18, 6:27 PM Thread Starter
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Re: wet sanding procedure

Andy, Thank you, The only thing I forgot to say was that I was gonna lay two more coats of clear on hood only because I can still feel the SS stripes a little and I want it smooth. I get what your saying about lightly sanding the whole car w/ each grit. It will make polishing clear coat much easier, real smooth.
Thanks again tony
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 5th, 18, 11:47 PM
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Re: wet sanding procedure

The best way to know if you've removed the scratches from the previous grit is to sand in the opposite direction on the next grit. I like to sand side to side, then alternate to up & down for the next grit. I always like to end sanding my last grit (2500) going side to side. Not sure if it makes a difference in the end, but I feel better about the scratches going in the same direction as the body lines.

You have to be thorough & take your time. If you rush the sanding stage, you'll spend way more time compounding scratches out, then polishing. Also, you might want to use 2000 in between 1500 & 2500. I wouldn't make a jump that high, but I'm also psycho about not having to re-do a step at that point. I'd rather not chance it.

This next step is optional after hand sanding with 2500, but makes a huge difference when you begin compounding. Pick up a DA sander with some 3000 & 5000 Trizact discs. Before using them, clean off the car thoroughly & make sure there is absolutely no grit anywhere on the surface of the car or the Trizacts. I use a spray bottle to keep them wet & my DA at a medium/low speed. Once your done with the 3000 & 5000, you should have a pretty good idea what you have.

Also, before you begin sanding, how flat did your clear lay out? I ALWAYS start my sanding with 800, then 1000; both on a hard block. Clear can lay out very lumpy & distort body work. If you don't flatten it now, you will be VERY unhappy with the finished product after the paint is polished.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 6th, 18, 7:25 AM Thread Starter
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Re: wet sanding procedure

Pete67, wow! thanks! I do have the small 3000 disc's and correct pad and whole box of discs. I will give it a shot. I just worry about taking off too much clear. The hood was only part that came out kinda dry but the rest of car is nice and shiney and smooth. I am gonna get drunk when I am finally done w/ this sanding. Block sanding the body was the worst.
At lease now wet sanding keeps spirits up while water reflects what paint will eventually look like.
Thanks again
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 6th, 18, 10:09 AM
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Re: wet sanding procedure

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete 67 View Post
The best way to know if you've removed the scratches from the previous grit is to sand in the opposite direction on the next grit. I like to sand side to side, then alternate to up & down for the next grit. I always like to end sanding my last grit (2500) going side to side. Not sure if it makes a difference in the end, but I feel better about the scratches going in the same direction as the body lines.

You have to be thorough & take your time. If you rush the sanding stage, you'll spend way more time compounding scratches out, then polishing. Also, you might want to use 2000 in between 1500 & 2500. I wouldn't make a jump that high, but I'm also psycho about not having to re-do a step at that point. I'd rather not chance it.

This next step is optional after hand sanding with 2500, but makes a huge difference when you begin compounding. Pick up a DA sander with some 3000 & 5000 Trizact discs. Before using them, clean off the car thoroughly & make sure there is absolutely no grit anywhere on the surface of the car or the Trizacts. I use a spray bottle to keep them wet & my DA at a medium/low speed. Once your done with the 3000 & 5000, you should have a pretty good idea what you have.

Also, before you begin sanding, how flat did your clear lay out? I ALWAYS start my sanding with 800, then 1000; both on a hard block. Clear can lay out very lumpy & distort body work. If you don't flatten it now, you will be VERY unhappy with the finished product after the paint is polished.
As said, the initial flattening is critical to a super job. Don't start the initial 800 or 1000 with a small hand block, use the longest block possible to find the highs and lows. You can even overspray the panel with a contrasting guide coat rattle can and that first longboarding will really show how flat your clear was laid.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 6th, 18, 10:42 AM
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Re: wet sanding procedure

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Originally Posted by urleycay View Post
I just worry about taking off too much clear.
I hesitate to start sanding clearcoat with courser than 1000 grit. If you do, it can be difficult to get out those scratches with the later finer grits - without taking off too much clear.

I'm right behind you on painting my 65. My plan is to sand using 1000, 1500, 3000 and 5000 grits.

A word of caution... Be very careful sanding around sharp edges and creases. It's very easy to sand thru on the edges in the early sanding steps. If you do, it's very difficult to correct. You might even think about taping out about 1/8" from the edges to be sure. You can do the edges, by hand and very carefully, using the 3000/5000 grit.

3000/5000 grit takes off very little clear. I highly recommend going all the way thru 5000 grit with the DA and a foam pad underneath. It will significantly decrease the work required to do the final buffing.

Good luck. Let us know how it comes out.

Les


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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 6th, 18, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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Re: wet sanding procedure

too late for that tip, But I am only on hood and once done I am gonna apply 2 more coats of clear for stripes. Do you think I'll get away w/ long board then?
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