1966, lower windshield repair or replace... - Chevelle Tech
Body Shop Paint & Body Forum

 6Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old Mar 6th, 18, 7:27 PM Thread Starter
Lifetime Premium Member
Tony
 
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Folsom, CA
Posts: 17,003
Garage
1966, lower windshield repair or replace...

Well,

My '66 "California" car is nice just about everywhere, except for the lower windshield channel... The exterior portion is okay, and the front of the glass looks fine, but there are some holes in front of the glass...

Debating whether to patch or just replace the entire piece, but then that leads me to other questions...

I have found quite a few different anels offered, and I am not sure which I will need...

What is available?

I have seen the exterior panel with the integral windshield channel, as well as the front of dash repair panel (and even a complete top of dash panel)... I have also seen some companies selling a "brace", but their pictures suck. it looks almost like the exterior piece, but why offer two different parts for the same panel?

One of these suppliers was Sherman: They offer a 706-43A and a 706-43T, similar prices, but descriptions are sparse... they offer a #706-43 that appears to be the front edge of the dash...

NPD also offers two different part numbers that appear to be the same panel, and has both a US-made repro of the exterior panel, and what appears to be a foreign (waiting for confirmation, but one says US-made, while the other doesn't mention it)...

I found OPGI and AMD both offer the "exterior" panels as well...


So, any preference?
I am leaning away from OPGI, because Summit says they won't ship until sometime in April, and I have had issues with OPGI and backorders over the years... I have the Sherman on the way, but I could easily order the AMD through Summit (in stock)...

NPD has usually been great service, but I want the closest fit, since this will be my first exterior body panel...

Car is already disassembled, so it looks like I only need to remove the A-pillar covers (the windshield is loose, but not quite out yet)... Complete interior is out, as well as the engine and front sheet metal...

From what I could gather, this panel is spot welded to the front of the dash. and maybe the ends (under the A-pillars) are also spot welded. Is it welded anywhere else?


I know rust hides everywhere, but I am hoping the front of dash panel will be okay, as the holes aren't too bad...

The actually exterior body panel looks great, with the rust confined to the bottom of the channel, so I had considered "patching" (even had a Sherman panel on the way)... But I figured it may be harder to do all that cutting, welding and grinding down in the channel, as opposed to just replacing the entire piece... Use a spot-weld cutter to remove the spot weld?



Drill some holes for new "plug" welds?
weld-thru primer? any other "paint"?
seam sealer after its all back in?

Trim studs? I see AMK sells screw posts, and Belden Speed and Engineering sells screws OR pip-rivet trim studs... Preference? Not looking for concours, just functional...

A-Body Window Trim Clip Stud Options - Belden Speed & Engineering - window channel rust patch panels, chevelle, rust repair, patch panels, GM a body repair


I tried to remove the windshield, its only stuck along the top edge, but I misplaced my windshield tool...

I guess I should get that glass out, and grind/wire wheel the channel to actually see the extent of the rust...

Any suggestions/tips/hints would be great...

Thanks

Once you go RAT, you never go back...
TC #1366

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Sold

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Sold
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
&
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
1966_L78 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old Mar 6th, 18, 8:30 PM
Lifetime Premium Member
terry
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Pelahatchie MS
Posts: 607
Re: 1966, lower windshield repair or replace...

I replaced the entire upper dash piece using an AMD part. I also replaced the outer piece as well. Really easy, and didn't take long...
mytmouz is offline  
post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old Mar 6th, 18, 9:54 PM
Tech Team
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: n.w.iowa
Posts: 322
Re: 1966, lower windshield repair or replace...

i also just replaced the dash and windshield channel/front trim.the A pillar covers are brazed along the roof line so best to not take them off,but if you do the windshield channel,they do need to raise.there are 2 screws under the fender and 2 that are in the channel.i got a panel don't remember who made it but it came unpainted.it did not fit to save it's a$$.so ordered an amd and it fit light years better,but fit it to the vent panel in front of it before putting it on.and test fit the windshield BEFORE you do any welding.
cherokeepeople is offline  
 
post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old Mar 6th, 18, 11:19 PM
Lifetime Premium Member
David
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Rochester, New York
Posts: 877
Re: 1966, lower windshield repair or replace...

I hate to say it, Tony, but don't be surprised to find more rust on your dash top than what you expect. I had visions of replacing only the exterior windshield channel and a dash top repair panel. After getting into it - I found the dash top had more rust on it than the width of the repair panel, so I ended up changing the entire dash top.
It didn't take a tremendous amount of paint stripping in this area to expose the rust as seen in the attached picture. The exterior channel came from Classic Muscle (made in USA piece), and the dash top came from AMD, as I did not find a entire dash top made in USA.
As you can see, I punched holes in the pieces so I could plug weld them in.

Sorry my pictures rotated on me. I don't know how to correct it when that happens.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN6366.jpg
Views:	143
Size:	110.6 KB
ID:	531089   Click image for larger version

Name:	0102161359b.jpg
Views:	141
Size:	108.5 KB
ID:	531097   Click image for larger version

Name:	0102161623.jpg
Views:	149
Size:	106.0 KB
ID:	531105  

66 Malibu......on it's way back to life as a BB
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
RAIDER SS is offline  
post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old Mar 7th, 18, 2:15 AM Thread Starter
Lifetime Premium Member
Tony
 
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Folsom, CA
Posts: 17,003
Garage
Re: 1966, lower windshield repair or replace...

Quote:
Originally Posted by RAIDER SS View Post
I hate to say it, Tony, but don't be surprised to find more rust on your dash top than what you expect. I had visions of replacing only the exterior windshield channel and a dash top repair panel. After getting into it - I found the dash top had more rust on it than the width of the repair panel, so I ended up changing the entire dash top.
It didn't take a tremendous amount of paint stripping in this area to expose the rust as seen in the attached picture. The exterior channel came from Classic Muscle (made in USA piece), and the dash top came from AMD, as I did not find a entire dash top made in USA.
As you can see, I punched holes in the pieces so I could plug weld them in.

Sorry my pictures rotated on me. I don't know how to correct it when that happens.
Thanks, great pictures...

So, that "outer" panel, its ONLY spot welded to the area where the trim studs go? Since you didn't remove the A-pillar covers all the way, I'll assume that means that panel isn't welded under the covers...

Yeah, looking at the dash tonight (through the dirty window), there may be a few spots of rust starting on the dash itself...

Ironic, ALL of the rust through spots are in areas where the inner cowl has indentations (so that the rusted piece is only rusted where there is NO metal sandwiched below... And the bottom, where its open to the air is actually in the interior of the car...

If need be, I'll buy the complete dash top. Its more money, but a lot less work than trying to align/trim/weld/grind all the way across the dash just to replace that front piece...

Once you go RAT, you never go back...
TC #1366

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Sold

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Sold
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
&
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
1966_L78 is offline  
post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old Mar 7th, 18, 2:19 AM Thread Starter
Lifetime Premium Member
Tony
 
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Folsom, CA
Posts: 17,003
Garage
Re: 1966, lower windshield repair or replace...

Quote:
Originally Posted by mytmouz
I replaced the entire upper dash piece using an AMD part. I also replaced the outer piece as well. Really easy, and didn't take long...
Quote:
Originally Posted by cherokeepeople View Post
i also just replaced the dash and windshield channel/front trim.the A pillar covers are brazed along the roof line so best to not take them off,but if you do the windshield channel,they do need to raise.there are 2 screws under the fender and 2 that are in the channel.i got a panel don't remember who made it but it came unpainted.it did not fit to save it's a$$.so ordered an amd and it fit light years better,but fit it to the vent panel in front of it before putting it on.and test fit the windshield BEFORE you do any welding.
Thanks...

Once you go RAT, you never go back...
TC #1366

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Sold

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Sold
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
&
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
1966_L78 is offline  
post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old Mar 7th, 18, 9:19 AM
Lifetime Premium Member
David
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Rochester, New York
Posts: 877
Re: 1966, lower windshield repair or replace...

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1966_L78 View Post
Thanks, great pictures...

So, that "outer" panel, its ONLY spot welded to the area where the trim studs go? Since you didn't remove the A-pillar covers all the way, I'll assume that means that panel isn't welded under the covers...





If need be, I'll buy the complete dash top. Its more money, but a lot less work than trying to align/trim/weld/grind all the way across the dash just to replace that front piece...
The "outer" panel is welded to it's underneath metal structure (where I plug welded) and to the dash top itself. You can remove the exposed a-pillar retaining screws and carefully pivot the a-pillar cover out of the way for installation. You can see how the a-pillar cover overlaps the "outer" panel in one of the pix. IIRC, The a-pillar cover has no welds holding it on, but there was a ton of putty underneath it at the top and the bottom of the cover for waterproofing (FYI - see attached pix for all the screws on the door jamb side of the a-pillar cover. You only need to remove these if you eventually remove the cover))

I totally agree that trying to weld on a replacement repair piece to the dash top would have been way more work than just replacing the entire dash top. That kinda repair job would have been a real pain in the ars to do!

I attached a pix to show how I started to drill out the spotwelds on the original "outer" piece. Lucky for me, the underneath metal was in great shape, so welding the new piece back onto it was good to go.

I also attached a pix to show one end corner of the "outer" piece and the dash after welding and grinding, and after I picked out most of the putty underneath the a-pillar cover. There is a lot going on in that intersection!

Because of the rust (therefore water leaks) on the underside of this area - I found that everything underneath the dash top was FILTHY. The instrument cluster, the wiring harness, the pedal bracket, heater box.....everything. You get the idea. Be prepared for some extra cleanup!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN6377.jpg
Views:	116
Size:	86.9 KB
ID:	531193   Click image for larger version

Name:	0102161623.jpg
Views:	113
Size:	106.0 KB
ID:	531201   Click image for larger version

Name:	1117161049.jpg
Views:	115
Size:	118.6 KB
ID:	531209   Click image for larger version

Name:	1115161048a.jpg
Views:	109
Size:	111.5 KB
ID:	531217  


66 Malibu......on it's way back to life as a BB
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
RAIDER SS is offline  
post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old Mar 7th, 18, 5:11 PM Thread Starter
Lifetime Premium Member
Tony
 
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Folsom, CA
Posts: 17,003
Garage
Re: 1966, lower windshield repair or replace...

Quote:
Originally Posted by RAIDER SS View Post
The "outer" panel is welded to it's underneath metal structure (where I plug welded) and to the dash top itself. You can remove the exposed a-pillar retaining screws and carefully pivot the a-pillar cover out of the way for installation. You can see how the a-pillar cover overlaps the "outer" panel in one of the pix. IIRC, The a-pillar cover has no welds holding it on, but there was a ton of putty underneath it at the top and the bottom of the cover for waterproofing (FYI - see attached pix for all the screws on the door jamb side of the a-pillar cover. You only need to remove these if you eventually remove the cover))

I totally agree that trying to weld on a replacement repair piece to the dash top would have been way more work than just replacing the entire dash top. That kinda repair job would have been a real pain in the ars to do!

I attached a pix to show how I started to drill out the spotwelds on the original "outer" piece. Lucky for me, the underneath metal was in great shape, so welding the new piece back onto it was good to go.

I also attached a pix to show one end corner of the "outer" piece and the dash after welding and grinding, and after I picked out most of the putty underneath the a-pillar cover. There is a lot going on in that intersection!

Because of the rust (therefore water leaks) on the underside of this area - I found that everything underneath the dash top was FILTHY. The instrument cluster, the wiring harness, the pedal bracket, heater box.....everything. You get the idea. Be prepared for some extra cleanup!
I have the car almost completely disassembled. All the interior is out so no wiring, dash, heater box, and I pressure washed everything inside and underneath. I even have one side of the "roof rail weatherstripping" channel removed, so I can access those pillar post cover screws...

The windshield is still installed (loose on both sides and the bottom, but still stuck along the top... I can't find my windshield tool, so I ordered a new one last night from Summit... Hopefully I'll get the windshield out in the next few days and then I can better assess the situation...


I also ordered a Blair spot weld cutter and some replacement cutter tips, as well as the AMD panel... I also have a Sherman panel coming from Rock Auto (I was originally planning on just using it to cut out patches)...

I guess I should also consider ordering the trim clip posts, but need to decide on screw-in or riveted...

Once you go RAT, you never go back...
TC #1366

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Sold

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Sold
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
&
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
1966_L78 is offline  
post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 18, 2:14 PM Thread Starter
Lifetime Premium Member
Tony
 
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Folsom, CA
Posts: 17,003
Garage
Re: 1966, lower windshield repair or replace...

David,

You wouldn't happen to have pictures of the rear window channel/panel replacement?

I haven't removed the glass, but I am pretty sure its probably similar... just rust down in the channel though, the "exterior" portions are nice... Just thinking ahead...

Thanks..

New panel for the front, along with my windshield "knife tool is supposed to arrive today...

Once you go RAT, you never go back...
TC #1366

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Sold

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Sold
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
&
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
1966_L78 is offline  
post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 18, 3:51 PM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Far Northern Kommiefornia
Posts: 7,727
Send a message via Yahoo to davewho1
Re: 1966, lower windshield repair or replace...

I used a sharp utility knife to cut my windshield out.

David

1966 Fremont 11A, SS396/L35 coupe - 1 of 66,843
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


MM/763; A01; A39; A51; D55; M35; N40; U14; U63


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
davewho1 is offline  
post #11 of 33 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 18, 10:46 PM
Lifetime Premium Member
David
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Rochester, New York
Posts: 877
Re: 1966, lower windshield repair or replace...

Yeah - I have a bunch of pix. I'll find the time to send you some of the better ones, but here's one that'll get ya going. This is after i removed the original dutchman panel.
(Notice I removed the trunk lid tension rods in order to not put any unwanted stress on this area under the dutchman panel during this process)
Looks like fun, eh?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN1154.JPG
Views:	61
Size:	187.9 KB
ID:	531617  

66 Malibu......on it's way back to life as a BB
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
RAIDER SS is offline  
post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 18, 11:02 PM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Far Northern Kommiefornia
Posts: 7,727
Send a message via Yahoo to davewho1
Re: 1966, lower windshield repair or replace...

Quote:
Originally Posted by RAIDER SS View Post
Yeah - I have a bunch of pix. I'll find the time to send you some of the better ones, but here's one that'll get ya going. This is after i removed the original dutchman panel.
(Notice I removed the trunk lid tension rods in order to not put any unwanted stress on this area under the dutchman panel during this process)
Looks like fun, eh?
No.

Aren't there around 1.5 gazillion spotwelds there? I need to do this also, if I want to repair it 'right.'

David

1966 Fremont 11A, SS396/L35 coupe - 1 of 66,843
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


MM/763; A01; A39; A51; D55; M35; N40; U14; U63


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
davewho1 is offline  
post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 18, 11:13 PM
Tech Team
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: n.w.iowa
Posts: 322
Re: 1966, lower windshield repair or replace...

i just replaced this on my 66.man why is yours so shiny??i needed to do the package tray too as in my younger days put some jensen triax II's in there and hacked the crap outof it.i see you have the wheelhouses out.BUT if you do not mess with the wheelhouses the welds on the bottom of the trunk hinge brackets on the wheel houses will hold the brackets and torsion bars right where they need to be.you don't have to relieve tension on the torsion bars.i just left mine there and cut that dutchman panel til i could get to the spot welds on the upper mounting points where the hinge brackets attach on the bottom side of the panel.this works good as the package tray will rest on the hinge brackets so you can put the 2 pieces together.also there was a thin layer of insulation sandwiched between the 2 panels.when i got my 2 panels apart it was full of rust.and i think once it started leaking that the insulation soaked up water and never dried out,so i put some thick filter media like furnace filters,this should breathe and drain if it ever should get wet again.if you don't it will have a tinny sound to it.also check the outer package tray extensions for rust .i had to replace one of mine.
davewho1 likes this.
cherokeepeople is offline  
post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old Mar 9th, 18, 8:21 AM
Senior Tech Team
Scott
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: ct
Posts: 4,199
Re: 1966, lower windshield repair or replace...

Quote:
Originally Posted by davewho1 View Post
No.

Aren't there around 1.5 gazillion spotwelds there? I need to do this also, if I want to repair it 'right.'
I've done this numerous times on various cars and recently on a 66 Chevelle. CHL panel for the Chevelle was a joke. I used an AMD panel and it fit very well, and only needed minor mods to achieve show quality fit of the lower window molding. Use panel adhesive in the trunk gutter and weld the rest. I've never had to remove the torsion rods. I also added drain tubes in the window corners.
davewho1 likes this.
Raven1 is offline  
post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old Mar 9th, 18, 8:46 AM
Tech Team
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: n.w.iowa
Posts: 322
Re: 1966, lower windshield repair or replace...

the worst part is the welds under the sail panels.actually it ain't the worst part,the worst part is trying to weld up under there.
you need to cut it just like the pic,get a grinder with a cutoff disc and cut right next to the seam.if you count there is about 16 spot welds on the back and about the same on the front.the sides under the sail panels have about 12 each and they are pretty close together.also the corners under the glass and back by the trunk lid are brazed.i just ground it all out and welded em.i also used amd package tray and trunk filler as they call it.and when i welded mine on,when i got to the trunk gutter i could not get my tip down in there far enough so i had to reverse the polarity of my welder,remove the shroud on the tip and use flux core wire.
davewho1 likes this.
cherokeepeople is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Chevelle Tech forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address. Note, you will be sent a confirmation request to this address.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Old Thread Warning
This Thread is more than 527 days old. It is very likely that it does not need any further discussion and thus bumping it serves no purpose.
If you still feel it is necessary to make a new reply, you can still do so though.

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome