Re: r134a numbers with stock Condenser & replacement POA
Originally Posted by DUTCH MAX HEADWORK
I'm going to strongly recommend ditching that POA Eliminator and installing your old rebuilt and recalibrated POA valve. If you don't have the old one, find one. I don't think you will be happy with a cycling system. Every time the compressor cycles off you'll experience a rise in temps from the vent. It's better than nothing, but if you're going all in, then go with the system that will give you all in performance.
Hi Al, I saw one of posts from Aug. 3rd on oil capacity. If I understand your post correctly, this is what I should be looking at for proper oil in the newly rebuilt system.
New March P414 Compressor (Sanden 7176) - already comes pre-filled with 100 cc of pag oil. I cannot find the exact type of pag oil yet.
So, if I flush all the lines, then I should add an additional amount of pag oil (exact type TBC) for each additional component based your post from Aug. 3rd..
Parallel flow Condenser - 1 oz
Evaporator - 3 oz
Dryer - 1 oz
New r134a POA valve - 0 oz ??
New Expansion valve - 0 oz ??
I plan to just pour this oil into each component, button up the system, then move the clutch on the compressor clockwise twenty turns or so before I vacuum and charge. Do I have this right ? Do I need more oil for the new POA valve or expansion valve ? Thanks !
1970 Chevelle SS396 (408), Fathom Blue,
Original Block & Forged Crank, KB Pistons, Edelbrock 6045 Heads,Comp Cam 292H, March Serpentine, RPM AirGap,750HP,100hp Nitrous
A/F Wideband,Tremec TKO 600, 12 bolt,
30 spline Moser Axles, Richmond 3:73's, Hotchkis control arms, swaybars, springs, Wilwood 12" rotors D/S, 4 piston calipers