Originally Posted by DUTCH MAX HEADWORK
I'm going to strongly recommend ditching that POA Eliminator and installing your old rebuilt and recalibrated POA valve. If you don't have the old one, find one. I don't think you will be happy with a cycling system. Every time the compressor cycles off you'll experience a rise in temps from the vent. It's better than nothing, but if you're going all in, then go with the system that will give you all in performance.
Beat me to it. I just switched mine from POA eliminator to POA valve. Much better, more consistant temps. I still run a tube and fin condenser, so i get warmer temps when it idles, but im pretty confident with my country road, occcasional stop sign/traffic light test drive, which got to 40, the highway ride will be below 40. I might be charged a little low. If you can throw some more money at it, get a POA valve.
Its odd that your low side didnt get that low, to where it will cycle off. other than i run an A6 type compressor, our setups were the same, but mine would cycle, and i found the temp rise to be really annoying. I had decent vent temps temps, until it cycled off. Thats all better now with the POA.
Dutch kinda mentioned this, but probably the best thing you can do with the POA eliminator is charge it accordingly to where the low side hovers right above the cut off point, so your vent temps stay consistent. Reality is, this would be kinda hard to do with all the variables of ambient temps, airflow, etc.
You are putting all the right parts in your car, the PF condenser is a big key component, but if i could nudge you enough to get a POA valve, i would. and Dutch is right there with me.