No floor drains allowed in garages in my city.
I had it all piped up for three, one in each bay and the inspector said "take um out".
Yep ! Either that or the EPA or state's environmental dept will/may want to be involved, they all hate garage drains and for good reason !
The garage doors need to be polyurethane type (injected foam), to be energy efficient, and without glass. R3 - 10, compared to R13 - 18+, comparing polystyrene to urethane. Avoid the largest brand name for garage doors also unless you prefer high prices with low quality and the highest repair parts. Also their operators are just Genie with a color and name change. 90% of door dealers do not carry/install that brand and parts aren't everywhere like the Chamberlain/Liftmaster brand (which is ultra reliable, and the only brand we'll install).
2 x 6 walls can use R-19 insulation batts which installs @ R-18 in a 5-1/2" cavity, vs. R-13 or R-11 in 2x4's, or you can use high density R-15 for a 2 x 4 wall - but it's price increase may or may not be justifiable. It is also extremely difficult to install correctly (R15HD) (it has to be cut either perfect or 1/4" over - NO EXCEPTIONS. It has absolutely no give to it).
Always use a minimum of R-38 in a ceiling and without a vapor barrier (which will hold moisture. Walls - definitely yes use a vapor barrier, ceilings - absolutely not). Pure white fiberglass is the highest quality product for ceiling insulation, pink cubes are 2nd but very glassy & dusty, and cellulose is the cheap alternative - but has major drawbacks to its use, then there's also Rockwool which is very dirty and a bitch to work in if need be.
Ceiling batts are the most expensive way to insulate - by far (and more difficult too), and you cannot use kraft faced batts - use unfaced only.
Make sure you have above code min. of attic ventilation too.
Decades of experience in these fields, (and wood or gas fireplaces & ventilation),and construction in general, 35+ yrs and counting.