Tech Reference Page #12
Power windows in 64 (part 5)
making door panels
Authored by Wes Vann, August 29, 1997
One of the problems with having a 2 door wagon is that nobody makes door panels. Well, the truth is that I could use El Camino or 2 door sedan panels, but the real problem is the rear panels. They are not the same as would be on a sedan, and a 4 door wagon is out of the question.
If you are working on a simple sedan, you can buy the panels and all you have to do is open up where the door crank would be for the switch. It's in the same location! I really like the pattern on the factory 65 panels.
But, my life just isn't that simple.
It ends up that I happen to have an old Singer sewing machine. My mom bought it back in 1955 and it still works great. I guess it's true that they don't make them like they use to. Sewing the panels is easy (or get the girl friend to do it) but does require forethought.
I had the original panels, but they were in poor condition and the color was all wrong. Plus the 64 pattern stinks!!!!
I used the original panels as a pattern to cut out new panels from "hardboard". You can buy hardboard at any hardware store. It's the same as pegboard, but without the holes.
The retaining spring clips can also be purchased new. The hardest part was cutting out the slots for the retaining spring clips.
The location for the new switch is in the same general location as the original crank. You have to mount the panel temporarily to get the location exactly correct. There is already a rectangle shaped opening in the metal panel on the door. You have to make sure that the switch is within this opening.
Make sure that you have ALL of the holes drilled and that they are located correctly! This includes the four holes along the bottom edge for the screws.
I mounted the hardware (arm rest and switch) and then thought about what pattern I would want. What I came up with is to have cloth along the bottom and leatherette on the upper section. This is the same material that the seats are made of. I then sketched in "texture" lines.
I transferred the same pattern onto the other doors panel.
When you make panels, you can get foam padding with a nylon webbing on one side. It's this padding and the backing that adds the texture lines.
I sewed the cloth lower section to the upper section of leatherette.
Then the foam padding gets glued to that assembly. In the past, I've used a 3M spray adhesive (I got cheap stuff this time and wasn't happy!) that I believe is called "Super 74". The stuff is costly, but well worth it! It's basically a spray contact cement. Make sure that the nylon webbing is on the outside (not glued at this time)!! (see the "lessons learned" at the bottom of this page)
The "texture" lines are marked with simple chalk and a seam is sewn in.
This assembly is then glued to the hardboard panel using contact cement. The hardest thing here is making sure that you locate it correctly. (once again, see the "lessons learned" at the bottom of this page)
The foam is trimmed back to the edge of the hardboard, and the outer material is folded over and glued to the back side of the panel using contact cement.
Here is one of the panels in place and all of hardware installed.
Lessons learned;
This is where you learn from the mistakes that I made.
1. I tried using the spray adhesive that the automotive fabric supplier sold me to blue the faom to the hardboard and it was junk! I believe the good stuff is 3M Super 74. When I did the rear panels, I looked for Super 74 and couldn't find it. I ended up getting Super 77 at Home Depot. When I built the rear panels, I used the 77 and sprayed a coat on the foam and a coat on fabric (leatherette). This stuff sticks fantastic!! You have only one chance to place it!
2. When I was glueing the foam and fabric on the hardboard, I was using contact cement and brushing it on both surfaces. Keep in mind that the nylon mesh was getting the glue, with the foam under it. When I got done, I ended up with some areas that the foam seemed to have gone soft. It ends up that the contact cement was melting the foam and if I put too much on, it was going through the nylon mesh. The answer is to just use the 3M spray adhesive.
3. When I was doing the rear panels, I found that the foam didn't want
to be pulled off where I had to wrap the material around the backside.
I found that I could use the contact cement to melt the foam and then wipe
it off with a scraper. I then applied another coat of contact cement.
return to part 2 Modifying regulators
return to part 3 Boots and wires
return to part 4 Wiring for the relays
return to "tech reference" index page