Authored by Wes Vann, revised August 7, 2005
The information and recommendations noted here on the strength (torque capacity) of a transmission is my opinion based on what I get from persons that I feel are knowledgeable! My recommendation on if a supplier gives a questionable claim is to ask what form of written guarantee is given and if the guarantee states the configuration and intended use of your car.
On this page, I'm going to try to gather information on automatic transmissions that are currently available. I'm not going to go into transmissions that are specific to racing. I'm not going to go into "rebuilding" type data.
Over the past several years, there has been a lot of different transmissions put out by G.M. and it almost seems (to me) that they are searching for a "solid", working version. Where it will all end up, I don't know!
The idea of this page is that you should be able to make a logical decision on what you want to buy. If I feel that a price is real (and repeatable), I'll quote it. That's part of the buying decision!
Although I don't like listing suppliers, I kind of have to in order to validate a price or where information came from. This may change.
This is going to be a long "text" page and in it's final format, there will be "jumps" to the desired sections.
Personal thoughts and comments;
1) In my small block powered wagon (64), I'm running a TH350. If I was to put in an overdrive, I'd have a 200 4R built. Easy and straight forward installation. I'd kind of like to try building one myself.
2) If you read in any of the magazines about the "latest and greatest" swap there is, read between the lines! Did they hook up the speedometer? Could you use the factory shifter? Do you need a computer that will add 2 grand to the cost?
3) Before thinking that you need an overdrive transmission, think about changing the rear-end ratio! As an example, you could have a TH400 built with a lower first and second gear to get a better launch, and yet the final transmission ratio is still 1 to 1.
4) When you buy a transmission, have the supplier put on the receipt what type car the transmission is going in and also what type engine! That's so that everybody knows what the game plan is and is up front about it. The more information stated, the less "questions" that can be brought up if there is a problem with the installation.
Things you need know!
1) When GM went to the latter model engines, the changed the end of the crankshaft so that a one piece oil seal could be used. As a result, there is a different flex plate used.
2) If you change the flex plate (to a different ring gear count), you may have to change your starter to match. If you change the flex plate to a different ring gear count, you will have to change the starter.
3) The "E" notes;
The transmissions that have an "E" in the name are electrically controlled!
Here is a link to go directly there. "E" notes
4) A "lock-up" torque converter will get you better mileage. I don't know why, but there is only limited configurations available (mostly stock). In other words, if you need a high stall converter, you will not be able to find a "lock-up" version.
5) A "lock-up" torque converter will generate less heat. The transmission would last longer.
6) Even if everybody (and that includes me) tells you that you will not have to get the driveshaft shortened, don't rule it out when working out a budget. Unless you bought the car new, you really don't know if the driveshaft is original. If you have to get one shortened, go to a shop that specializes in it! They have the jigs to set everything straight and also are set up to do a proper balance job. Get written directions on how to measure for the correct length (Everybody has FAX ability, even if you have to pick it up at a "copy center". Even my parents, who will not buy an answering machine, can get a fax!).
7) You need a transmission cooler! You may need an additional one, other than just what is normally mounted in the radiator. I'd recommend that you get a temperature gauge. (I use the same electrical temperature gauge as what reads the engine temperature. I just use a switch and mounted an additional sending unit in the transmission pan)
8) Think out what you are going to use as a shifter! Even if your local speed shop dude says that a certain aftermarket shifter will work, if it doesn't say so on the box, contact the manufacturer before you buy!
9) When somebody mentions "BOP", they are referring to Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac. The reason that it's important here is that the BOP transmissions have a different bolt pattern where they bolt to the engine. You can't use a transmission that is specific to the BOP's on a Chevy engine, and the other side of the coin is true, you can't use a transmission that is specific to Chevy behind a Pontiac! I believe that some of the latter transmissions put out by General Motors had a dual pattern, but you better know what you are buying! Don't trust that guy at a swap meet!!
10) The correct adjustment of the TV cable on 200 4R's and 700 R4's is critical for the transmission to work correctly. From what I've heard, if not adjusted correctly (or temporarily not hooked up), the transmission will self destruct! Get written instructions from the transmission supplier and read them! If you have to return the transmission, this will be the first thing the shop asks about.
The "formulas" section moved to it's own page. That way, it can be found by guys (and girls) that are interested in manual transmissions also.
To get to the "Gearing Formulas" page, click here.
General data;
This is a two speed transmission that in "unmodified" condition is the weak one to avoid. Very good boat anchors. Unless you are doing a "points" restoration, why bother!
There is a "throttle valve" linkage that controls the kick-down action of the transmission and a vacuum line.
Gear ratios;
First; 1.76, Second; 1.00
General data;
This was the "standard" three speed that has been used in almost everything. Real good behind a small block car or big block if you have limited traction.
There is a throttle position cable required and vacuum line. It's still possible to get the brackets for the throttle cable from your GM dealer and there is an adjustable cable available from B&M.
The "tailshaft" housing came in three different lengths. The one you want is the short version if you want to avoid shorting your driveshaft. The good thing is that almost all of the TH350's out there are the short version (except for trucks and such).
I had to do a small amount of "hammering" to the floor board for added clearance. But then, my car is a 64 and I don't think that the TH350 was offered in that year. Just about any other year should be no problem.
Gear ratios;
First; 2.52, Second; 1.52, Third; 1.00
General data;
This three speed is the "beefy boy" you want behind a solid big block (or 4L80E)!
You will have to mount a throttle position switch to control kick-down. (no cable, as in the TH350) I'm under the impression that normally the factory mounted them at the carburetor, but in certain years they were mounted down near the throttle pedal. There are several aftermarket kits for mounting the switch at the carburetor.
You need a vacuum line. (nothing new)
One thing cool here is that several companies can convert a TH400 to have a lower first and second gear ratio. This allows you to have a better launch, a rock solid transmission, and still the final 1 to 1 transmission ratio. (think about running a 3.31 rear-end gear)
Gear ratios;
First; 2.48, Second; 1.48, Third; 1.00
General data;
This overdrive four speed trans seems to get a lot of bad mouthing. One of the good things about it is the gear spacing. With a closer gear spacing than the 700, you will not have the engine drop out of the desired RPM range when shifting.
If you feel that they can't handle a fair amount of torque then think about the fact that the Buick Grand National drag racing guys use this transmission!
It would make for a physically easy swap due to it's size and length!!
Art Carr is the person to contact for modifying a 200 4R (as far as I can tell). There is a link below.
I talked to the people at "Art Carr" (on the phone) for quite some time and they summed up the 200 4R / 700 R4 strength conflict as; "in unmodified configuration, the 700 is unquestionably stronger, however correctly modified versions are pretty much equal". We talked about what they have to do to strengthen the "weak links" in the 200 and it sounds truthful.
Count on installing a TV cable and something to control the lock-up torque converter.
As far as I know, most (if not all) are set up for a cable type speedo hook-up.
Gear ratios;
First; 2.74, Second; 1.57, Third; 1.00, Fourth; 0.67
General data;
This transmission is the most popular overdrive four speed that the "rebuilders" work on. I've seen ads for installation "kits" in the price range of $1200. Of course, this doesn't include shortening the driveshaft.
The early versions were not that strong. (I need to get the years, more to research)
You will need a TV cable and vacuum line.
As far as I know, most of the 700R4's have a provision for a cable type speedometer.
I've heard way too many stories about "built" 700R4's not being able to handle big blocks! Don't believe me? Talk to your transmission guy and ask him what kind of written guarantee he will give when you install that 502 big block.
Gear ratios;
First; 3.06, Second; 1.62, Third; 1.00, Fourth; 0.70
General data;
This is an "electrically" controlled version of the 700R4. See the 4L60E listed below.
General data;
This transmission is currently (2/11/2000) sold through GM dealers and is a remanufactured unit. Sallee Chevrolet has them listed on their web site for $1450 and as I read it, it includes the torque converter. (their web site is listed in the links below) This sounds like a good deal to me.
I called them and it's basically a "upgraded" 700R4 replacement intended for the 93 Camaro and is "pre-electronic".
General data;
For all I can figure out (at this time), it's just a version of the 700R4E. Which was a version of the 700R4.
It makes me wonder why GM has to keep on changing this thing around! Is there something wrong that just can't be figured out?
Read the "E" notes at the bottom of this page! (link to the "E" notes)
Jags That Run can modify the tail shaft to relocate the reluctor ring that is used for the electrical speedo take off and also run a cable speedo hook-up. The reason this is important on an installation in an older car is that you need both. The electrical hook up is used by the transmission controlling computer. (there is a link to JTR at the bottom of this page)
Gear ratios;
First; 3.06, Second; 1.62, Third; 1.00, Fourth; 0.70
General data;
This is the "beefy boy" of overdrive four speeds! It's also real large! Jet Performance's catalog lists this trans as capable of handling 700 ft-lb's of torque!!!
One thing that you have to know is that there are two different yoke set-ups available. One is the standard "slip-yoke", and the other is called a "bolt-in yoke". On the bolt-in yoke, there has to be a slip joint as part of the driveshaft. This means that you will end up converting a truck type driveshaft. I'm not sure if anybody sells the parts to do an output shaft change and if the tail shaft housing is different.
Read the "E" notes at the top of this page! (link to the "E" notes)
Gear ratios;
First; 2.48, Second; 1.48, Third; 1.00, Fourth; 0.75
There is a LOT that I don't know about torque converters! Due to the amount of variables that would effect the correct selection of a torque converter (for non stock configurations), I'm not even going to try. I'd recommend that you call the manufacturer (not just a supplier like PAW).
I've put the "E" notes down here so that everybody didn't have to read through them at the top of the page, if they were not applicable to the transmission they want to know about.
The transmissions that have an "E" in their name are electronically controlled. In other words, they are controlled by a computer!! In some of the early factory installations, it was a separate computer from the one that controls the engine EFI. In the latter factory installations, it was all in one computer (engine and transmission).
What this all means is that you have to have a computer and wiring harness to work the transmission!! You may be able to use the factory computer and loom if you can get it. I don't know of any firms that make a "retrofit" loom (but I feel that "Painless" or "Ron Francis Wireworks" would be a good place to start looking).
Jet Performance has a computer and loom kit that will work the 4L80E transmission. Although they will program it at the time of purchase to fit your requirements, you can't reprogram it yourself. (They are willing to sell you a different chip, should the need come up) I'd bet that it's a factory GM computer. It has the diagnostic port for checking the functions. (there is a link to Jet Performance's web site below)
TCI has a computer and loom kit for the 4L60E and 4L80E. This one is re-programmable using a lap-top computer and their software. I'm under the impression that it also has the factory diagnostic port, but could be wrong. The December 1999 issue of Popular Hot Rodding has a very good article about using this set-up in a late model Camaro. (there is a link to the TCI web site below)
If you are running a carburetor, then you are going to have to mount a Throttle Position Sensor. TCI has a kit for doing this.
Hooking up a cable type speedometer is a problem due to the transmissions not having any provision for it. One solution is a product that is sold by TCI. It's basically a motor that drives a speedometer cable at a speed controlled by the electrical output from the transmission sensor.
Another solution to the speedometer problem is to have the "reluctor ring" relocated (moved on the tail shaft), a speedometer drive gear added, and the tailshaft housing modified so that both are available. Art Carr can do the conversions on the 4L60E and 4L80E (I don't know about their doing it on the 700R4E, but it's just a version of the 4L60E anyway). Jags that run can do the conversion to the 700R4E.
13. Links to suppliers and fabricators;
Linking to Art Carr is problematic due to his having sold the company (and rights to his name in regards to the company). At a latter date, he went back into business in the California area. So, the link to "Art Carr" transmissions is to the original company. California Performance Transmissions is the name of the current company that Art owns and runs. I've had no business relationship with either company.
"Art Carr" transmissions; modified transmissions. (read the note above)
California Performance Transmission; modified transmissions (the company currently owned and run by Art Carr)
Ground Up Restoration; various restoration parts, pedals, etc.
Jags That Run; (JTR) transmission modifications and engine swap stuff
Jet Performance; Transmissions and controllers (computers)
Sallee Chevrolet; sales of GM performance parts (engines and transmissions)
Summit Racing Equipment; the name says it! If you don't have one of their catalogs, get one.
TCI; Transmissions and controllers (computers, etc.)
tecref22.html