Chevelle ID guide

Identifying Chevelle SuperSports

1966 & 1967

With: Skip Cain

For 1966, the Chevelle’s appearance radically changed from it’s boxy shape of 1964 and 1965, to a more aerodynamic “Coke bottle” styling. The 1966 Super Sport got it’s own distinctive non-functional louvered hood, that set it apart from other models. Three different 396 powerplants were offered. The base 325 HP L35, the high performance 360 HP L34 and the special high performance 375 HP L78. (This same engine in the 1965 Corvette was rated at 425 HP). Transmissions available were the standard three speed Saginaw with floor mounted shifter, optional Muncie four speed, and optional Powerglide two speed automatic transmission. Depending on powerplant and axle ratios the Muncie four speed was available as M20 wide ratio or M21 close ratio. A heavy duty close ratio M22 “Rockcrusher” was made available later in the year. All SS396 Chevelles came with the 8.875” “12 bolt” axle. Gear ratios ranged from 2.73 (Powerglide only) to 4.88 (four speed posi-traction only).
1967 Chevelles looked very similar to the 66 models, but there were many differences and changes made for the 67 year. Federal mandated safety laws included a new energy absorbing (collapsible) steering column, recessed smooth coutoured control knobs and levers, four-way hazard warning flasher, dual reservoir master cylinder with warning light, folding seat back latches. Other changes included a new three spoke steering wheel, larger power brake booster, available disk brakes with rally wheels and the TH400 three speed automatic transmission.
The L34 engine was now rated at 350 HP,although it was the same as the 66 360HP. The special high performance L78 engine was not available until later in the model year, so if you see a 67 L78 with a build date before June it is probably not original. Only 612 L78 powered 67 Super Sports were produced, making it the rarest of the big block Chevelles. (With the exception of the 65 Z16.) Another interesting fact is that Chevrolet had planned (see 67 assembly manual) to produce the 3x2 “tripower” option for the 67 Chevelle, but Corporate policy caused the option to be cancelled. It was available only in the 67-69 427 Corvette.
Buyers of 66 or 67 SS396s beware, as there’re a lot of fake Supersports out there. A few years ago I was in southern California looking for a straight, rust free and original 67 SS396. Of the ten or twelve cars I looked at, half of them were bogus. Some of the owners were very clever at disguising their Malibus.
What to look for: First and most obvious check the VIN. A true Supersport (66 and 67) will be 13817 or 13867 if a convertible. Also check the rivets that fasten the VIN tag and cowl tag to the car. The cowl tag rivets should have hollow heads, and the VIN tag rivets are special star shaped. Regular hardware type rivets should raise a flag, as these tags have probably been replaced. Another area to check is underneath the car. Bonafide Supersports used a pair of special rear suspension supports. These tied in to the upper and lower control arm mounting points(above the mufflers.) Also check the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump. Big block cars used 3/8” fuel lines. Most small block cars used the 5/16” lines. The more obvious differences are front grills, rear end (only 12 bolts were used.) and no body side mouldings or holes for the mouldings. One guy tried to explain to me that the car I was looking at was a real Supersport, but both fenders, doors and quarterpanels were replaced from a Malibu.
Hope this gives a few clues as to what to look for. Good luck!
SKIP CAIN

1967 Chevelle

With: Al McKenzie

I have nothing against non original cars. Modifications are great and I have certainly done my share of them. Your car is your car, and you are more than welcome to do as you please with it.
This info is presented for anyone who is looking for stock and is about to shell out the bigger dollars some of these sell for.
Note:
I have also added a list of questions to ask when buying a car.... this has been the question I have been asked the most since putting the chevelles on the internet and you are welcome to it.

This guide is aimed at identifying SS396 cars and components.
Basically all the other models are what they should be, I haven't seen anyone ambitious enough to try and turn a sedan into a Malibu. If you are buying a Malibu, check the codes, tags etc, and match them up to what they should be. Quite often you will find a Malibu that has had bucket seats and a console added in place of the original bench seat, now this may be what you want, but when it comes time to sell you may get 'bit' over this simple fact. My rule of thumb for add-ons is this....if it can be added or removed without physical damage then it does not really matter, and usually makes the car more driveable, eg, tilt steering, AM/FM. Please see more than just the paint when you buy, there is nothing worse than that horrible sick feeling you get when things turn out to be all wrong.
SS396 cars are always worth more and for this reason deserve a little closer look before you park it in your garage.
If you know a few extra tricks please share them with us.

The Obvious!

There are no Malibu SS's in 1967 built in the US.
(they were available in Canada in limited numbers and could have small or big blocks, these can be easily documented by GM of Canada)
The grill should be correct, no emblem (about 10 inches long and skinny) or holes in the top of the grill.
No chrome trim running down the beltline of the fenders, doors and quarters. SS has one long rocker molding.
The hood should have a couple big lumps, accept no substitute, these hoods are very pricey to buy seperately.
The glove box should have an emblem that says Super Sport, not Malibu, see item 1 above.
An interesting often overlooked clue is to check for on an original big block car is the fuel line size, at the gas tank for the larger 3/8 dia. tube
* SS cars have the brake lines running through extra clips and are routing differently on the passenger's side of the front frame (this is to keep the lines from getting cooked by the exhaust manifolds). The brake line runs from the driver's side under the engine (like a small block) then shoots straight back towards the firewall and is held in place by extra clips then goes on top where there is another clip, the back towards the wheel).

Now the not so obvious.

Dash gauges, may or may not be there, these were an option and did not come standard on SS's.
Bucket seats are not a sign of an SS. They were an option and lots of SS's came with a stock bench seat.
A TH-400 automatic was available only on the SS, this should have an electric kick-down switch and wiring on the back of the carb.
Firewall should be painted semi-gloss black, or evidence should be there that it once was.
Rear panel between tail lights should also be semi-gloss black, or evidence that it once was, open trunk lid.
Motor mounts are different for 396, the fronts are rounded, with a deep grove in the top. Tough to spot.
Engine numbers and ident codes should be correct.
Accent strip on top of dash, (with ignition key in it) should be crinkle black, not woodgrain.
Front stabilizer bar is a larger diameter on SS.
If the cowl tag is pop-riveted on, keep going, it should have the correct open holed rivets.
For a complete inspection, the ident numbers are stamped on the top of the frame, behind left rear tire.Tough to look at, try a mirror, but it should be there.
The "rag-joint" on the steering column should have a splined and bolted flange, allows removal on 396 cars.
The power steering should have a remote fill canister bolted to the left fender and front rad support.
The rear differential should be a 12 bolt, count'em if you have to.
Check for extra support struts while you're down there, they go from the front of the rear control arms to the upper frame.
The rear panel beneath the trunk should have an SS396 emblem and no Malibu emblem on the right.
The SS396 Grill emblem should have a bracket that keeps it out flat, not tight to the grill like some cheap repos.
* submitted info via email