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| Chevelle Tech Current Topic: Sand Blasting | ||
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#1
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Hey guys, has anybody here ever used a portable sand blaster to blast the front frame horns on a chevelle before? I want to strip the firewall, frame, and cowl and have done a couple cars in the past using a wire wheel on a die grinder, but that's the hardest work ever, and most painstaking. I want to do it fast, and get it clean! I was thinking about buying a portable sand blaster unit, and wanted to know what your thoughts on this was other than it being messy and spraying sand everywhere.
anybody use one? thoughts, suggestions, opinions? thanks. ------------------ Jaber Racing&Restorations My Blown Alky 70 SS Current Projects, and past resto's Dad's 67 SS 396 Convertable Survivor |
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#2
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I had a guy do mine car. It came out perfect. Thats the fire wall. I have a bead blaster at home and do all my own parts. But if you do it, sand gets every where.
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#3
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I started using a pressure blaster on my frame and gave up after a few hours. It is a very slow and dirty job. You must have a large two stage compressor with at least an 80 gallon tank and a pressure blaster to even attempt to do the job. It would be better to let a professional do the job. Just my opinion. Good luck!
Mike |
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#4
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I'd agree with having it done somewhere. Of course you have to get it there right! Unless you plan on a lot of use from the equipment for other projects. I have what I thought was a good unit $180. I used about 3x as much sand and 2x as long as the dude who did my wheels. I did 1 and he did the other 3 for $30 total. Sand is real easy to handle in a bag is a PITA all over the shop. The cats REALLY like the little piles too.
------------------ 71 SS-454 El Camino [This message has been edited by caddpro (edited 09-16-2002).] |
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#5
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I just had my whole 68 frame done for 250.00. When I did my 71 myself, the sand alone cost 150.00. not to mention the 3 days of work. I would have the body parts done as well but with bead blasting.It won't warp the panels because it doesn't get as hot....Bill
------------------ B.Rose 68-SS396 71-SS454 ACES #04039 |
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#6
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Did the frame horns and firewall on my '64 Elky at home. Total cost about $100 and about 15 hours time over a few days.
I've got a 60 gal,6HP, twin cyl compressor, and bought Northern Tool's little plastic roll around 100lb. capacity portable blaster. I used some (large) canvas painter's tarps, duct tape and built a tent around the nose of the car (garage floor too), with the blaster inside. Are you guys using Plutonium Enriched Unobtainium sand??? I bought 3)100lb. bags of screened silica for $15 from my local concrete / stucco products supplier. Also got a clear lens faceshield, some disposable dust masks, and disposable paper jumpsuits. If you do a good job on the "tent" there won't be a lot of mess. Just lift the canvas and shovel it into the kids sandbox when done. I swept up about 2 dustpans worth when all done. |
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#7
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John, so the little tote around deal worked well? I was thinking about buying a 'pressure pot' which is a 10gal tank you fill with sand and the compressor uses that as another air tank, and the sand comes out pre-pressurized as oppsed to the siphon type nozzles. If I can get away with the tote around I'll buy one of those. How was the spray quality, did it seem like you were airbrushing your frame with a tiny nozzle, or did it remove some good areas and clean it well? any feedback based on your experience is appreciated.
thanks, Jalil ------------------ Jaber Racing&Restorations My Blown Alky 70 SS Current Projects, and past resto's Dad's 67 SS 396 Convertable Survivor |
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#8
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Funny you should mention that, I started blasting mine today. My situation is a little different, as I have the body off the frame, but the details are the same. Take a look at my website, it shows how I'm doing it. Dave's Page Clik on the Frame and Suspension link.
Mine works very well with my setup. I have a big 80 Gallon compressor and one of the cheapo pressure blasters from Harbor Freight. It blasts about a 1" area at a time, you kinda wave the nozzle around and the job goes pretty quick. I assure you, the job is dirty, hot, nasty, and NO FUN. but the results are well worth it. Hope this helps. ------------------ Dave Vanderputten 1970 Malibu 307/M20 4-speed/3.08 (Eternally in progress) TC GOLD #867 ACES# 3967 http://daves70.freeservers.com The law of inanimate reproduction: If you take something apart and put it back together enough times, you will eventually have enough parts to make two. |
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#9
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The "tote around" siphon unit worked beyond my expectations. The one I got had a pistol grip type gun, with a ceramic tube insert for the blast nozzle. It shoots about a 2 sq.in. area. During the whole process I used up 2 of the consumable ceramic nozzles. It went pretty quickly, about a 8 sq.in. area in 30 seconds. Silica sand grains are pretty sharp, and cut well. Drawback is they are dangerous, and Silica dust can cause all kinds of health problems with "long term or continuous exposure".
Before building the "tent", I used about 3 cans of Gunk Engine Bright on everything, and hit it with a putty knife and hand wire brush to get the major crud off. One thing I discovered is the need for multiple water separators on my compressor. I did this during the heat of the summer (high humidity index) and the unit on the tank outlet couldn't keep up. I had to put a smaller "point of use" water separator on the inlet of the blast gun. If your air is wet, the gun will gum up with sand, and you'll just blow air around. |
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#10
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Dave, good site!! that's the exact blaster I was looking to get, the clarke pressure pot. But you say it only really does a 1" area just spraying a spot from the go. was it worth the money, or do you think a tote around syphon system will get the same results. From what John says, the syphon worked really well for him. Just want to get all angles before I drop the cash.
and I'm sure I'll have to have a water seperator with about 50' between it and the tank because it's only a 6hp 30 gal single stage craftsman and creates alot of heat. PS. Is that you Dave, or little blue riding hood! haha ------------------ Jaber Racing&Restorations My Blown Alky 70 SS Current Projects, and past resto's Dad's 67 SS 396 Convertable Survivor [This message has been edited by J70Chev (edited 09-18-2002).] |
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#11
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I have the same sand blasting unit as Dave does for my personal use and it works great. However I am having some jamming problems with the unit at times but it kicks butt. Also in the shop where we offer this service we have a few industrial blasters. They work like no tommorow.
------------------ ACES Member #2987 1972 Chevelle SS 1987 GTA 1998 Camaro SS (Y2Y) 1978 Pontiac TransAm |
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#12
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Well guys, I just bought a 100lb craftsman tote around blast unit and some 30 grit? or what ever they call sand grades, silica sand from Home depot (3.50@50lb bag) today. I'll probably fire it up sunday if I can get the air/water filters for my tank. I will update with how well it works and hopfully have some pics updated on my site.
------------------ Jaber Racing&Restorations My Blown Alky 70 SS Current Projects, and past resto's Dad's 67 SS 396 Convertable Survivor |
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#13
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Wasn't kidding guys, wear a particle mask, ball cap, earplugs or cotton balls, and a faceshield. Be warned, you'll be washing sand out of every ahem.. orifice when you're done!
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#14
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My brother-in-law works for the Gas Company and stopped by with the service truck which they have a blaster on board for blasting the underground gas lines.
They use a fine coal mix and we did my wheels in no time also did the trunk area BUT like the other guys said that S#*T gets in EVERY orfice, But does a Hell of a job. If you know someone or have a friend of a friend that can get one, maybe they can hook you up, only cost me a six-pack. |
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#15
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Forget the silica (sand) stuff. It's dangerous to your lungs, breaks up into a fine powder, and does not work so well.
I use something called "Black Beauty". It is ground up slag from steelmaking. Costs about $1 a bag more than sand, but it cuts MUCH better, and cleans up easier. Plus, it won't kill me if some gets past my respiator. I scoop it up after I use it and put it back into my siphon blaster. I get it at the local cement yard. Another tip: if you are using a Craftsman or home type comperssor, get rid of the little regulator valve on the tank. It does not flow enough air for sandblasting. With the original valve and a full tank of air, my pressure at the gun was 40psi, and it dropped to 25 rel fast. With the new, bigger valve, it's 110psi, and never drops below 40. Use a regulator made for at least a 1/2" pipe. I have a shut off valve at the tank, 50' of hose coiled up, and then a good filter/regulator. The hose before the filter gives the water a chance to settle so the filter can catch it. |
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