[Daves70SS]

Is there any parts place out there that sells the printed circuit for the 70-72 tach dash that really does match the original GM exactly in thickness and feel?
Without mentioning names,I bought one from the big place and it was a thin piece of garbage,so I returned it.Then I bought one from a place who claimed theirs was made in the USA and was thicker and alot better than the other place and not made over sea's like the other but it was about $15 more so I bought it and when I received it guess what?
It was exactly the same one as the other place.Has anybody recently bought one from a place that compared it to their orginal and really is the same as GM?

Dave

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1970 Chevelle SS396 L78 4spd 410 posi astro blue

[Daves70]

I think I'm having an identity crisis!!

[72Mark]

Wow, that is kinda weird.

What is it with people named Dave and Chevelles? Sounds like a good candidate for a government grant and a 20 year study.



Mark

[This message has been edited by 72Mark (edited 01-30-2003).]

[Steve S]

The overall thinkness shouldn't be an issue. Once it is mounted it doesn't move or flex. The important part is the trace width and thickness, this what carries the current. The rest is just insulating mylar and glue. Todays manufacturing technology and materials are much better now than in 1970. Most of the ones I see are damaged due to external forces (speaker rubbing, bulb changes, etc) or excessive current due to shorts. The other issue is delamination and two traces shorting to each other or ground. The new one should be much less likely to delaminate.
I always recommend that if you have an amp gauge fuse (2amp is plenty) both leads at the source.

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Steve Strasemeier (70SS 396, Fathom Blue/White Stripes)
My 70SS

[This message has been edited by Steve S (edited 01-30-2003).]

[Daves70SS]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Steve S:
The overall thinkness shouldn't be an issue. Once it is mounted it doesn't move or flex. The important part is the trace width and thickness, this what carries the current. The rest is just insulating mylar and glue. Todays manufacturing technology and materials are much better now than in 1970. Most of the ones I see are damaged due to external forces (speaker rubbing, bulb changes, etc) or excessive current due to shorts. The other issue is delamination and two traces shorting to each other or ground. The new one should be much less likely to delaminate.
I always recommend that if you have an amp gauge fuse (2amp is plenty) both leads at the source.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Steve S,
I had checked the thickness of both with a micrometer.First I checked an area where there was no copper foil just the two layers of mylar and there was only about a .001 difference between the two which is no big deal,but there had to be a reason why the repro. was not as stiff so I checked an area where there was exposed copper for the light socket and I found out that there appears to be a difference in the thickness of the copper foil between the two.The copper foil is about .0015 thicker on the original GM printed circuit than the repro. which is why one is more ridgid that the other. I know that doesn't sound like much but to me thats a big difference since the foil is very thin to begin with so an extra .0015 is alot and may make a difference as far as carrying current.

Dave

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1970 Chevelle SS396 L78 4spd 410 posi astro blue

[This message has been edited by Daves70SS (edited 01-30-2003).]