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  #1  
Old Sep 13th, 08, 4:08 PM
joespc37 joespc37 is offline
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Default Welding in new trunk pan

Hi guys my question is im about ready to do my trunk pan and i wanted to know is it best to over lap the metal or to but weld it in what is the way everyone does it? thanks for info joe
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  #2  
Old Sep 13th, 08, 4:16 PM
oktunes oktunes is online now
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Default Re: Welding in new trunk pan

I put in the outside pieces first and the center last, lap welded the seams. Takes some doing to get the center section in last. Doing it last makes it easy to weld the outer sections, if you have a lift and cen raise the car up.
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  #3  
Old Sep 13th, 08, 4:43 PM
Andy69 Andy69 is offline
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really?
 
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Default Re: Welding in new trunk pan

I butt welded. I didn;'t have to replace the center, so I put the seam over one of the braces, so it was kind of a lap weld, kinda.
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  #4  
Old Sep 13th, 08, 5:00 PM
joespc37 joespc37 is offline
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Default Re: Welding in new trunk pan

im just doing center section anyone have pics 68 chevelle
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  #5  
Old Sep 13th, 08, 10:08 PM
JimB JimB is offline
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Default Re: Welding in new trunk pan

All readay posted
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Last edited by JimB; Sep 14th, 08 at 9:39 AM.
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  #6  
Old Sep 13th, 08, 10:10 PM
JimB JimB is offline
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Default Re: Welding in new trunk pan

I don't think you stated what year car but I don't think it matters. Take your time and and do a one piece weld them and make it nice or you will have to redo and it is a costly Do one at a time.do it right
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  #7  
Old Sep 13th, 08, 10:14 PM
JimB JimB is offline
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Default Re: Welding in new trunk pan

I am now doing a 65 and can get you some pictures but will be a day or two
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Last edited by JimB; Sep 14th, 08 at 9:38 AM.
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  #8  
Old Sep 13th, 08, 10:33 PM
crakarjax crakarjax is offline
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Default Re: Welding in new trunk pan

Why would he have to redo it if he doesn't butt weld it?
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  #9  
Old Sep 14th, 08, 9:36 AM
JimB JimB is offline
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Default Re: Welding in new trunk pan

I stated if it isn't right and doesn't look good he would have to do it . sorry i didn't spell it out for you. Nothing said about not butt welding it. Just stating a fact and experience on my part of being in a hurry and haven to do things over. Didn't mean to ruff you up.
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  #10  
Old Sep 14th, 08, 11:32 AM
figbash figbash is offline
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Default Re: Welding in new trunk pan

Sheet metal should always be butt welded. Lap welds, although easier to make, allow moisture to get between the sheets and cause corrosion.

Lay your patch in place and scribe around the outside. Cut it to size using snips and/or a thin cut-off wheel and hold everything in place with 1/16" Cleco's installed on the joint. MIG or TIG the joint with small 1/4" or shorter welds, moving around often to prevent warping. If it was easy, anyone could do it.

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  #11  
Old Sep 14th, 08, 5:46 PM
crakarjax crakarjax is offline
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Default Re: Welding in new trunk pan

That's more of the answer I was looking for... It was an honest question Jim, no need to get offended. I don't know the first thing about welding!
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  #12  
Old Sep 15th, 08, 11:30 AM
1967 Bodyoff 1967 Bodyoff is offline
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Default Re: Welding in new trunk pan

I personally don't understand everyones hang up's with lap weld type joints. All of our vehicles have them from the factory in areas such as pinch weld flanges. I do understand the corrosion concerns, but compaines such as 3M, and Transtar have weld through primers specifically designed to address this concern.
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  #13  
Old Sep 15th, 08, 8:37 PM
MakMetalFab MakMetalFab is offline
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Default Re: Welding in new trunk pan

The concern about Lap welds.... Yes ALL cars have them... Where do you think the rot always is?

1968 AMX pinch weld (lap)


1969 Mustang (lap)


MGB pinch weld


OK so yea all cars have overlaps, this is where the rot almost always starts.
Trying to avoid extra overlaps is a good idea. Especially with the weld being the whole length of the overlap, no matter what primer you use its going to bun off.

Weld through primers still burn off right at the weld so the rot will start there.

Lapped patches will last how long depends on how the car is treated.
Ive worked on 5-6 year old restorations that are already rotting.
On the other hand Ive seen lapped patches that have lasted 20 years.


IF you have the skills then butweld it. If you dont. then over lap it becuase you will make an absolute Mess out of it trying to butweld your first time... Trust me.
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  #14  
Old Sep 16th, 08, 10:14 PM
DRHRSH DRHRSH is offline
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Default Re: Welding in new trunk pan

Great discussion here. I have to agree that butt welding is ideal, but not always practical. I replaced my '70 trunk with 3 Goodmark pieces that were designed to overlap. I placed rosette welds,then seem sealed with a good 3M sealer top and bottom, and undercoated top and bottom with Raptor( a spray on Rhino liner type product). I figure the first factory job lasted 30 yrs, and I think my job is better sealed, so I should get at least 30. Trouble is I'll be dead by then!









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  #15  
Old Sep 18th, 08, 7:51 PM
corn goat corn goat is offline
 
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Default Re: Welding in new trunk pan

I also have agonized over the butt/lap(and spot) weld question .From my experience on my own car the rust at the cowl bottoms (vent areas near front passengers/drivers feat)was because of the leaking seam sealer and plugged drain holes.the lap seam on my floor board was rusted because of leaking /cracked seam sealer in the upper cowl/upper firewall. 0ther lap weld areas that werent exposed to leaks were ok . I know condensation can still occur between two pieces ,but my car isnt going to be left outside in the rain hopefully and it wont be driven in the winter(salt exposure) .It is a 69 and if the mice had not moved in after it was put out to pasture(so to say) The mouse beds wouldnt have promoted as much damage.I decided to just nuetralize (por 15 or acid) as much rust or cut out what is practical ,make my laps as small as possible and go on and live my life and get some sleep.purests will bristle at this but thats ok i just want to drive and enjoy my car.
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