Machine work for 383 - Chevelle Tech
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  #1  
Old Sep 12th, 07, 1:40 AM
djjstylz djjstylz is offline
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Jay
 
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Default Machine work for 383

I am gonna drop off the block to get cleaned up and machined. Gonna do the 383 stroker kit by eagle so what machining is needed? It is a stock 350 block with no work done, only has about 10,000 miles on it. I don't wanna get ripped off by getting work done that doesnt have to be done so your replies would be great. Thanks.
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  #2  
Old Sep 12th, 07, 1:56 AM
LeLynn LeLynn is offline
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Default Re: Machine work for 383

Well that all depends on what shape the block is in. A 383 is a 350 block bored .030 over and stroked to 3.75 inches. You will be boring the engine over so that in one machining process (Be sure that the machine shop uses torque plates when they bore the engine. You will also need to have the main bores checked to be sure that they are round and straight. If they are not then a line hone will be needed. Next you will need to have the deck checked for flat and milled if it is out of flat. A 383 uses a stroker crankshaft so there may be some clearance issues. The block will need some minor grinding to clear the new reciricatins assembly (Also check for connecting rod clearance issues with the camhaft). If you are new to building engines I recomend that you either have a compatent, trustworthy shop do the clearancing or do it youself under VERY close supervision from someone who is quite compatent. Good luck. It's not as bad as is may sound, don't let it scare you out of going for it.
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  #3  
Old Sep 12th, 07, 9:59 PM
stroked78 stroked78 is offline
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Default Re: Machine work for 383

wich eagle kit did you get, i ran into some issues with mine.

now as for machine work
first youll need to get the block clearanced, the rods bolts on some of the rods come very close and sometimes hit the pan rail. youll need a minimum .050" clearance. if you dont have the proper tools, or never done this b4, pay your machinest to do it! next youll need the deck decked, the mains alinebored(nows to time to upgrade to main studs) and the cylinders board with torque plates! therse are the basic machining that WILL need to be done. i strongly sugest gettin the your crank/rods/pistons ballanced even if they come pre-ballanced. nows the time to catch a mistake that MAY have happend. also the rods them selfs need to be clearance, you machine shop can do this for you. also get the machine shop to set up your piston ring end gaps.

the resone i asked you what kit you got is, if you got the same kit i did, the steet and strip kit that use Keith Black silv 0 lites hyperutectic pistons, BE CARFULL. these pistons require exscive ring end gaps, if you dont haven enough, the rings Will butt, and destro pistons and in my case, your block! talk to Wolfplace or BillK on what ring end gaps the recomend with the KN silv o lites.
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  #4  
Old Sep 12th, 07, 10:39 PM
djjstylz djjstylz is offline
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Default Re: Machine work for 383

Quote:
Originally Posted by stroked78 View Post
wich eagle kit did you get, i ran into some issues with mine.

now as for machine work
first youll need to get the block clearanced, the rods bolts on some of the rods come very close and sometimes hit the pan rail. youll need a minimum .050" clearance. if you dont have the proper tools, or never done this b4, pay your machinest to do it! next youll need the deck decked, the mains alinebored(nows to time to upgrade to main studs) and the cylinders board with torque plates! therse are the basic machining that WILL need to be done. i strongly sugest gettin the your crank/rods/pistons ballanced even if they come pre-ballanced. nows the time to catch a mistake that MAY have happend. also the rods them selfs need to be clearance, you machine shop can do this for you. also get the machine shop to set up your piston ring end gaps.

the resone i asked you what kit you got is, if you got the same kit i did, the steet and strip kit that use Keith Black silv 0 lites hyperutectic pistons, BE CARFULL. these pistons require exscive ring end gaps, if you dont haven enough, the rings Will butt, and destro pistons and in my case, your block! talk to Wolfplace or BillK on what ring end gaps the recomend with the KN silv o lites.
I actually didnt get it yet, I was gonna just get it from the speed shop then drop off the block at the machinist. But I am wondering if it is really worth the money, I know it is more torque but from what some people have told me here and at the speed shop I wouldnt gain "much" more horsepower than just doing a 355 with the parts I have now. So now I might wait a week and figure out exactly what I want to do. I was gonna spend that money on a new crank and all which is why I figured to stroke it out while I was spending the money. It seems to make sense for running a heavy car mainly on the street so I will probably end up going for the 383 kit, I am not sure what exact kit it is but was quoted about $700.
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383 Stroker
750 Holley
RPM Air Gap
RPM Heads
Comp 280H Cam
10:1 Speed Pro Hypers
3000 Stall
th350
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  #5  
Old Sep 12th, 07, 11:11 PM
stroked78 stroked78 is offline
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Default Re: Machine work for 383

Quote:
Originally Posted by djjstylz View Post
I actually didnt get it yet, I was gonna just get it from the speed shop then drop off the block at the machinist. But I am wondering if it is really worth the money, I know it is more torque but from what some people have told me here and at the speed shop I wouldnt gain "much" more horsepower than just doing a 355 with the parts I have now. So now I might wait a week and figure out exactly what I want to do. I was gonna spend that money on a new crank and all which is why I figured to stroke it out while I was spending the money. It seems to make sense for running a heavy car mainly on the street so I will probably end up going for the 383 kit, I am not sure what exact kit it is but was quoted about $700.

man for what youll pay to have a crank cut, and rods resized and new pistons, you might as well just get the stroker kit
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  #6  
Old Sep 13th, 07, 6:17 AM
djjstylz djjstylz is offline
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Jay
 
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Default Re: Machine work for 383

Quote:
Originally Posted by stroked78 View Post
man for what youll pay to have a crank cut, and rods resized and new pistons, you might as well just get the stroker kit
Looks like thats way I am gonna go with the money I was willing to spend anyways. Thanks for the info and I hope I don't choose the same combo you had a problem with.
__________________
70 Malibu
383 Stroker
750 Holley
RPM Air Gap
RPM Heads
Comp 280H Cam
10:1 Speed Pro Hypers
3000 Stall
th350
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...1970malibu.jpg
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  #7  
Old Sep 13th, 07, 9:02 AM
rumrumm rumrumm is offline
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Default Re: Machine work for 383

Get the Eagle rotating assembly with the SRP forged pistons. It is not that much more and you will be better off. I always use forged pistons. I like the extra insurance.
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  #8  
Old Sep 14th, 07, 3:26 PM
Tyroma Tyroma is offline
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Default Re: Machine work for 383

The machine work on my 383 cost me $1500. That includes .030 overbore, clearancing the block for the larger crank, balancing the assembly, new bearings, magnafluxing and hot-tanking.

Ty
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  #9  
Old Sep 14th, 07, 3:48 PM
webfoot webfoot is offline
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Default Re: Machine work for 383

Holy crap, I think it cost me $600 when I got mine done.
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  #10  
Old Sep 14th, 07, 5:52 PM
stroked78 stroked78 is offline
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Default Re: Machine work for 383

Quote:
Originally Posted by webfoot View Post
Holy crap, I think it cost me $600 when I got mine done.
yeah but we pay a helluva lot more up here in canada

to get my block, decked, alinehoned, bnored with torque plates. cleaned/washed. suply and install cam bearings and frost plugs. check all of my journal diamiters and rod big ends(new eagle kit, i jsut wanted to make sure) have my rods clearance and re check the ballance, it costed me about $950cnd
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