[rubadub]

I've got the bride resizing the pictures, just a fewpictures, and there not that good, but will suffice.

I'll give a good explanation on what I did, but this is for us amateurs, a regular body shop would go out of business doing it this way.

I'm thinking within a half hour, if I put some pressure on her to hurry up.

Trying to get it on before you early birds go to bed that way you guys can jump right on it in the morning

Rob

[rubadub]

http://www.1969supersport.com/floorpn.html

Rob.

[Andy69]

wow RObert very nice. I was pretty proud of my work but you old timers just keep showin me up

[LateNight72]

Looks Great!

One thing I did learn, use the self-drilling screws. They will cut about 1/3 off of the time it takes to screw them all down.

[rubadub]

Thats a good idea Todd, especially in any area that you don't need to really draw them down. But the size drill bit and screw I used, the screw is a little bit over sized, and most of the time you have to push down pretty good with the air ratchet just to get it started.

Sometimes the screw is indenting the pan itself, but because its set in on the edge of the support, from underneath its tight and flat right next to the support.

When I did my trunk pan, I probably stripped out about 20 or so, but I used a bigger drill, then went to a bigger screw on those.

On these I stripped the threads off about a half a dozen, but because of the small hole, I didn,t need to go oversize, just a new screw.

I haven't compared the two screws, but I think a regular sheet metal screw has a deeper thread, Maybe.

Anyway, good idea you have there Todd. I never thought about it.

Rob

Rob

[rubadub]

Andy, the difference between us old guys, and you younger guys. You have children at home to raise, usually a wife that works also, plus a job yourself. We have nothing but time, and it probably takes me ten times as long as it does you to do something.

And, anybody that looks to see how tight a floor pan is, has probably got a screw loose himself, like me.

Rob

[ss396boy]

What happened to pouring the epoxy in the holes and flipping the car in 360's? Guess that plan didn't work. I think you made the right choice.

[rubadub]

I'm still going to do that.

Rob

[sevt_chevelle]

When I did my floors I used 8-32 bolts. That way the screws dont strip out and plus you can put a washer on both sides and really get em tight without denting the metal.
But then I modified some long reach vise grips, instead of being a 18in throat they are now around 38in throat. No more holes for me

[NOTHINBUT69s]

Look great Rob, Can I ask why you went with half supports? just curious. I've been watch your project 69 for awhile now, Its looking awsome.

[rubadub]

Eric, sounds good, the bolts and extended clamps . As long as there tight to the supports, thats the name of the game.

Rob

[rubadub]

Jim, as a rule the only part of the support that usually needs replacing is the outside, and when I did it all the rest of the support and pans were intact, I don't know if it makes a difference in keeping everything straight, not sure.

But its a toss up I guess, all new or half supports. I will spot weld everything pretty good, except the back seat support, then I will pull that full support out and redo it also.

I did the supports on my rotisserie, but first I welded four cross braces to the inside of the rockers out of square tubing, I had some pictures, see if I can find them. It really held everything together tight.

They were about 8 or 10 inches above the floor pans, with an angle brace spot welded in four places on each end to the inside of the rockers. I kept them low enough so I could roll the body over.

The body fits the chassis really nice, so I'm into the overkill mode to retain that shape.

I would like to do a half a dozen of these 69's, and I will get some help when I do it, but right now its a lot of experimental work for me, and a lot of jigs.

Then when I do the next ones, I can have somebody work with me, and it should go good.

Right now, I'm just really picky, old age and cantankerous, nobody could work with me until I get the whole program down.

I also replaced about four inches of the toe boards, and kept the factory lip, Might not be able to see it in this picture.

Anyway, My remaining braces are in really nice shape, good and solid.

I'm trying to make the underside perfect, but it just takes me so long to do it.

Once I get it all figured out, then I can really knock these babys out yeah right.

Rob

[rubadub]

Heres the cross braces I mentioned

FLOOR PAN


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These are supports for doing the floor pans. They are about 60" long. I welded them in between the rockers, then I could change the supports on the rotisserie. About 4 spot welds on each end and that will tighten up the whole bottom of the body. I kept them fairly low so I could rotate the body a full 360 degrees. I had pictures of them installed on the body but the bride likes this camera so she asked if she could delete them and I gave her permission to.

These are made out of 1/16 thick 1-1/4 square tubing. You can see where I ground the spot welds off when I got done.

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[Gravy_D]

Thats really nice work Rob. I wish you would have had all this info when I started my project. It would have saved me alot of time/head scratching and kicking myself in the pants for not doing something a different way.

[rubadub]

Thanks Gravy, a guy wonders if anybody ever uses any of it, I've posted stuff and never got a reply, it makes you wonder.

Rob