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  #16  
Old Mar 1st, 07, 10:51 AM
BUDS1970 BUDS1970 is offline
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Default Re: Rear Main Seal?

Last summer I put rod bearings in with just jacking up the engine and I will never do anything like that again.Take the time to pull the engine and you'll be much happier.
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  #17  
Old Mar 1st, 07, 11:30 AM
von von is online now
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Default Re: Rear Main Seal?

Quote:
Originally Posted by GRN69CHV View Post
Guess it can be changed in the car. Motor has to come up enough to get the pan to clear. I've never changed a rear main seal with the motor still assembled and in the car. THe half of the seal in the main cap is an easy fix once the pan is off and the pump is removed. I assume you unbolt the rear cap and try to push the seal out from around the crank? Or do you have to loosen all the mains to get some slack around the crank?
Here's an article I wrote for the Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc newsletter:


Rear Main Seal Leaks-
As promised in the last issue, this will explain how to replace the rear main seal on a classic ('59-'85) Chevy V8, and also how to remove the oil pan with engine in the car (Chevelle small block automatic only). If you have a big block or manual trans, the trans and bellhousing must be separated from the engine and the rear of the engine lifted (big block) as well as the front, in addition to the following:
First, to remove the pan, disconnect the battery and remove the distributor cap and radiator top panel. Jack up the front of the car and support the frame on jack stands. Drain the oil, remove the oil filter and dipstick , and drop the exhaust pipes from the manifolds (or unbolt headers from pipes). Remove the flywheel dust shield and remove the fuel pump and plug the fuel lines. Rotate the crankshaft so the timing mark on the balancer is in the 6 o'clock (very bottom) position. Disconnect the starter brace, remove the inboard starter mounting bolt, and loosen the outboard bolt. Put a block of wood (a 4"x4" about 8" long works well) vertically on a floor jack under the balancer. Remove the "through" bolts from both engine mounts. Loosen the trans mount bolts at the crossmember. Jack the front of the engine up until 3" blocks of wood can be placed between the frame mounts and engine mounts. Pivot the starter away from the oil pan and remove the pan bolts and oil pan. You may have to jack the front of the engine up a little higher to get the pan to clear the trans flex plate during removal. Reinstallation with a new gasket is a reversal of this procedure (tip: glue the new cork gasket to the pan and the rubber end seals to the block). Put a dab of RTV at the junctions of the gaskets and end seals. CAUTION: Be sure the engine is properly supported before putting your hands up between engine and frame, mounts, etc.
To replace the rear main seal (this also applies to big blocks), remove the oil pump with pickup and crankshaft rear main bearing cap. Remove the lower half of the seal from the bearing cap. Use a small piece of rigid plastic or wood to push on one end of the upper seal half to get it started around and out. Once it moves about 3/8" or so, grab the exposed end with pliers (be very careful not to touch the crankshaft) and pull it on out. Install the new lower seal half on the bearing cap. Note: Install both seal halves with the point of the "V" pointing toward the front of the engine. Lube both halves of the seal with clean oil and using the small plastic "shoehorn" that comes with the seal, push the upper half into place with a small piece of rigid plastic or wood. The "shoehorn" prevents the seal's small top side lip from being sheared off by the sharp edge of the block during installation. You may have to turn the crank to "walk" it into place. Clean the mating surfaces of both seal halves AND the bearing cap/block joint with brake cleaner or lacquer thinner. Put a light smear of RTV gasket sealer on the upper/lower seal mating surfaces AND the block/bearing cap mating surfaces. Install the bearing cap and torque the bolts to spec. Install the oil pump with pickup and torque to spec. Reinstall the pan and add oil and filter, etc.
Now you can start parking your Chevelle on your friend's new concrete driveway without fear (as long as it doesn't have other leaks).
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  #18  
Old Mar 1st, 07, 1:03 PM
72 468/400chevelle 72 468/400chevelle is offline
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Danny
 
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Default Re: Rear Main Seal?

I wouldn't be too quick to jump on the rear seal idea. They don't usually just start leaking bad all of a sudden. Neither does the pan for that matter if it hasn't been disturbed other than the front cover. And that woudn't run down the back of the pan anyway. I'm kinda leaning toward the cam plug. Do you remember maybe hitting the plug with the camshaft when installing? And also, get a mirror and look from the top at the back of the intake to make sure the end seal is in position and sealing properly. It could be leaking there between the intake and block. Good luck.

Danny
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  #19  
Old Mar 2nd, 07, 10:41 AM
frankg70ss frankg70ss is offline
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Default Re: Rear Main Seal?

I'm with Danny on this one.Was the rear seal leaking before the cam change?I bet it was damaged on the cam install.Good Luck
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  #20  
Old Mar 2nd, 07, 11:03 AM
mfd560 mfd560 is offline
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Scott
 
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Default Re: Rear Main Seal?

I am giving in and going to pull the trans bellhousing and flywheel to find it once and for all! I want to thank all of you for your help and sugestions but however there seems to be no fix or way to find it with out pulling it apart. I figured I will pick up a pan gasket and rear main seal on my way home today incase it is either one of them, that leads me to another question if it is the pan gasket should I change the RMS while I have it apart or just leave it? I'm leaning to change it but figured I would what you guys think.
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  #21  
Old Mar 2nd, 07, 1:29 PM
von von is online now
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Default Re: Rear Main Seal?

I'd sure change it while you have the pan off if there's any chance the seal is the culprit. You should be able to tell easily with the flywheel off. As I said before, look real close to see if the oil is coming from the crank down across the main cap above the pan seal. If you do change the seal, be sure to put a small smear of RTV on the mating surfaces of the seal AND the main cap to block mating surfaces after cleaning with brake cleaner. Don't believe that baloney you may hear about offsetting the seal mating surfaces. It just increases the chances for a leak. I believe that's what caused mine.
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  #22  
Old Mar 6th, 07, 8:31 AM
mfd560 mfd560 is offline
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Scott
 
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Default Re: Rear Main Seal?

Well check this out I pulled it apart and it was the rms I could see a drip of oil on the crank, so I pulled the motor again and took it back the the engine shop ( My builder is a great guy and told me if I were pulling out he would do it with me being I never did one before and whe wanted to make sure the end play stayed correct ) we pulled it apart and there did not look to be anything wrong with the seal that was in there so we changed it anyway and put it back together. When I got home I put it back into the car, fired it up and no leak . Go figure no signs of any problems with the old seal but it leaked like crazy.
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