350 crank into a 283 block - Chevelle Tech
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  #1  
Old Feb 13th, 07, 1:15 PM
bardall1 bardall1 is offline
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Smile 350 crank into a 283 block

Has anyone out there put a 350 crank into a 1964 Chevy 283 block? [Actually the crank is a 3.562 stroke Eagle crank ] Besides the journal sizes what are the problems one would get into with this swap? Would there be a balance problem with the 2.100 rod journals using a 6.00 rod? I have found from a machinest that a 3.75 400 crank would need to have the weights turned down to get a 400 crank into a 283 block and mucho dollars. Just trying to build something different. Jerry
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  #2  
Old Feb 13th, 07, 9:47 PM
bardall1 bardall1 is offline
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Default Re: 350 crank into a 283 block

How come when I ask for exact information I usually receive none. When I ask for opinions I am flooded? Come on. You are better than this
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  #3  
Old Feb 13th, 07, 10:02 PM
CNC BLOCKS N/E CNC BLOCKS N/E is online now
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Default Re: 350 crank into a 283 block

Quote:
Originally Posted by bardall1 View Post
Has anyone out there put a 350 crank into a 1964 Chevy 283 block? [Actually the crank is a 3.562 stroke Eagle crank ] Besides the journal sizes what are the problems one would get into with this swap? Would there be a balance problem with the 2.100 rod journals using a 6.00 rod? I have found from a machinest that a 3.75 400 crank would need to have the weights turned down to get a 400 crank into a 283 block and mucho dollars. Just trying to build something different. Jerry
Balancing should not be a problem but grinding down the mains that far some times will move the oil holes near the radius instead of keeping the oil holes in the center, The bottom of the cylinders will need clearancing and the webbing of those old blocks is not very strong compared a 350 block but we have installed splayed caps on those blocks before.
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  #4  
Old Feb 13th, 07, 10:25 PM
bardall1 bardall1 is offline
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Default Re: 350 crank into a 283 block

Very good info. I do thank you. Jerry
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  #5  
Old Feb 13th, 07, 11:48 PM
novaderrik novaderrik is offline
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Default Re: 350 crank into a 283 block

how big of an engine would you end up with?
my "auto math handbook" is packed away somewhere in the basement.
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  #6  
Old Feb 14th, 07, 12:11 AM
wes migletz wes migletz is offline
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Default Re: 350 crank into a 283 block

I have experience stroking two different SJ blocks.

The first was a '59 CU code 283. I had the block bored out to 4.00". Then had a 3.75" 4340 GM crank with 350 sized mains turned down to fit the block. The counterweights had to be turned down. The machinist used 6.00" 350 sized rods, instead of the 6.00" SJ rods he was supposed to. The rods required minimal clearance. The crank's counterweights had to be turned down to clear the block; this required a lot of mallory metal to balance. The block was studded (in hindsight, I probably should have gone with 4 bolt splayed main caps from Program Enginering).

There was a tap on start-up. Turned out to be a rod knock. Didn't really get to drive the car. Most expensive engine I ever had built, and we missed taking the car on our honeymoon because of it. (It's OK though, I feel good knowing the guy that built the engine went scuba diving the weekend I pulled it back out!) Anyway, used every machining operation the schmuck recommended, top shelf parts, and had to suffer through several versions of the guys' "you get what you pay for" BS. Apparently you do... he's had the engine back for a year, and he just got my crank back from the shop last week... says it will be done by the end of Feb. We'll see.

Since I started the stroked 283, Speed-o-Motive began selling SJ stroker crank kits. This would have been a cheaper way for me to go, and I would have had the cranks been available when I started my project.

My second experience is with stroking a 1962 327. This engine is currently at Johnson Machine Services, and will be done soon. I got a 3.875 Callies crank from a guy I know that had spun a bearing; it was mine for the cost of having it machined down from 350 rod/main sizes to those of the early SJ blocks. Ordered 6.00" SJ Manley rods from Wolfeplace. I had the block set-up with program engineering's splayed 4 bolt main caps. Pistons will have to be custom made; I think the machinist ordered Ross... I deferred to his judgement.

The free 3.875" stroke added considerably to the cost of this project. The SJ stroker kit from Speedo would have probably been a better investment, given our intended use of the engine.

BTW, I believe another TC member, DZAUTO, put a 350 crank into a 307 (same bore as a 283). 307s may have the same sized rod and main journals as a 350 though, I dunno.
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  #7  
Old Feb 14th, 07, 8:36 AM
DZAUTO DZAUTO is offline
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Default Re: 350 crank into a 283 block

Quote:
Originally Posted by wes migletz View Post

BTW, I believe another TC member, DZAUTO, put a 350 crank into a 307 (same bore as a 283). 307s may have the same sized rod and main journals as a 350 though, I dunno.
I've never put a 350 or SB400 crank into a 283 block. Although, it's my understanding the later 283 blocks (mid/late 60s) have sufficient clearance. I have put 350 cranks into small journal 327 blocks simply by having the mains cut down (as well as a little cut off of the flange between the rear main and rear seal journals). And of course, EVERYONE is familiar with a 400 crank into a 350 block (makes a 383). A 350 crank into a 307 is a too easy drop in. With a .030 bore and a 350 crank, this makes about 336 from the 307, which is only 14inches smaller than a 350, thus you would build one of these just as you would build any other 350.

Earlier I mentioned that the later 283 blocks had more clearance (for crank counterweights) than the earlier 283 blocks. I believe this increased clearance in the later 283 blocks occured when the 327 was introduced. The 327 blocks do require more clearance, and so when they were cast the molds for the 283 blocks were changed which gave them the same (or similar) added room for a bigger crank.
Also, I personally have never put a SB400 crank into a a 283 block, but the machinist that I use says he has had customers who have had him machine a 400 crank to fit into a 283 block. So, obviously, it can be done. Also, I have helped a friend build a 383 using a small journal 327 block and a 400 crank. The 400 mains were cut down to 350 size, then the 327 block was line bored to the bigger main bore size of a 350 block. Actually, it was a rather straight forward process. The 2 bolt main caps were retained but the longer 350 bolts (actually studs) were used. Made a good engine! This engine was specifically built this way so that he could retain his original matching number 327 in his 66 Vette. His engine did have one easy give away, it had a 400 balancer on it!!! At the time, he didn't know about using Mallory metal to do an internal balance so that he could have also retained his 327 balancer.
A few years ago, I built a SB400 for my 56 Vette and had it internally balanced specifically so that I didn't have to use that 400 balancer (which is a dead giveaway that you have a 400 (or 383).
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  #8  
Old Feb 14th, 07, 12:47 PM
bardall1 bardall1 is offline
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Default Re: 350 crank into a 283 block

The size would be somewhere around 360 inches. The easier and cheaper route is to use a 327 or 350 block but this defeats my purpose of keeping my matching numbers 283 engine in my one owner numbers matching 64 Chevelle SS convertible with a factory 4 speed. Jerry. Thanks for the help
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  #9  
Old Feb 14th, 07, 12:54 PM
bardall1 bardall1 is offline
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Default Re: 350 crank into a 283 block

Thanks so much for your interesting info. You say Speed O Motive sells stroker kits for the early 283 and 327 blocks? If this is the case then I am on my way which would let me skip Jail and go directly to home plate. Many thanks Jerry
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  #10  
Old Feb 14th, 07, 12:58 PM
bardall1 bardall1 is offline
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Default Re: 350 crank into a 283 block

Many many thanks guys. You have so helpful and all of you have been positive which is very refreshing indeed. Jerry
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  #11  
Old Feb 14th, 07, 1:01 PM
d1_bradley d1_bradley is offline
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Default Re: 350 crank into a 283 block

Seem to remember that "back in the day" there were MANY 327 based engines running around as '354's or so...............
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  #12  
Old Feb 14th, 07, 2:38 PM
DZAUTO DZAUTO is offline
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Default Re: 350 crank into a 283 block

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Originally Posted by d1_bradley View Post
Seem to remember that "back in the day" there were MANY 327 based engines running around as '354's or so...............
Oh yes, quite true. I've built a couple of these. A small journal 327 block, bored .030, turn down the mains on a 350 crank. VOILA, you have a 355! In addition to turning down the mains of a 350 crank to fit the small journal block, it is also necessary to slightly turn down the flange between the rear main jorunal and the the rear seal journal of the 350 crank. The reason is because the groove in the block/cap of a small journal block is slightly smaller than the groove in a 350 block. Toooooooooooooo easy!
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Old Feb 14th, 07, 8:17 PM
pdq67 pdq67 is offline
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Default Re: 350 crank into a 283 block

A "round-bottomed" 283 block should be fine b/c it's basically a 327 block!!

And didn't GM use the same casting number on all four blocks, 283/302/327/350????? And in '67, just bore the 350's mains out to medium journal size???

pdq67
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  #14  
Old Feb 14th, 07, 10:03 PM
bardall1 bardall1 is offline
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Default Re: 350 crank into a 283 block

You say a round bottom 283 block? I do not know this term. Please tell me more. Jerry
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  #15  
Old Feb 14th, 07, 10:32 PM
pdq67 pdq67 is offline
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Smile Re: 350 crank into a 283 block

When the 327 came out, they rounded the bottoms of the cylinders so it's crank counterweights would clear is all b/c they are bigger in dia than the old 265 and 283's.

Look in the block's lower end from the "bottom up", (straight down if she's up-side-down on a stand), and if they are flat, it's an earlier 265 or 283.

Rounded down in there and it's a later 283, 302 and 327 block.. And I figure, also a '67, 350 that's just had bigger main saddles machined in it.. But I can't prove it..

pdq67

PS., and I do figure that a "round-bottomed" 283 block should bore safely to .155" over just like a .030" over 302 and 327 and probably .185" over b/c there have been MANY a .060" over 327's made through the years that ran fine!!

But in doubt, sonic check the thicknesses of all the cylinderwalls so you will know for sure and not waste a bunch of money on too thin cylinders before boring her out to the MAX................
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